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Drain valve shaft on kenmore DW  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Wed Apr 5th, 2006 04:12 am
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Bookseeb
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Found I had a leak from the shaft seal of my Kenmore dishwasher mod.#363.14171790.  Ordered and replace the shaft seal and push on nut, reinserted the shaft and found it to be free spinning.  I would think that the flat of the shaft would lock into something within the plastic housing.  Something just doesn't seem right.

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 Posted: Wed Apr 5th, 2006 07:24 am
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kdog
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yes,the shaft operates a flapper valve to redirect water to the drain once the control solenoid on the outside pulls it up.



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 Posted: Wed Apr 5th, 2006 03:05 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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This diagram might help you figger out what you missed.



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 Posted: Thu Apr 6th, 2006 01:56 am
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Bookseeb
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Sorry, but remember that I'm only a grasshopper and the diagram doesn't go into what I need (unless it's something I don't see).  I need to know in some detail how to reconnect the shaft  to the flapper valve, do I have to rip out the bottom of the DW or is it a simple fix?  I appreciate the input.

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 Posted: Thu Apr 6th, 2006 02:08 am
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Moostafa
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Hello, my shafted friend. Are you able to identify the part you replaced in the diagram that our dear and gracious host provided for you?



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 Posted: Thu Apr 6th, 2006 05:10 am
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Bookseeb
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Yes, #415 & 417.

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 Posted: Thu Apr 6th, 2006 11:10 am
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Budget Appliance Repair
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Bookseeb wrote:
Ordered and replace the shaft seal and push on nut, reinserted the shaft and found it to be free spinning.


I notice in your first post you say you reinserted the shaft???

If when you tried to remove the push-on-nut the complete drain flap shaft pulled out of the pump body then you are in for some fun.

I had one do this so had the experience, (luckly for me I already had the pump out of the machine and was rebuilding it.), you're going to probably have to remove the pump from the machine to be able to get it all back together correctly.

You should have just cut the old push-on-nut off with cutting plyers then you wouldn't have had the problem of pulling the shaft out.



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 Posted: Thu Apr 6th, 2006 02:09 pm
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Bookseeb
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Thats it!  Before I even read your post it finally dawned on me what I did and what I should have done.  It's so simple now, but the hard part is going back in time to do it over again as well as the extra work I'll have to do.   Leave it to me to make a simple job difficult. 

Now is it worth the effort for just that, or should I rebuild while I'm at it, or just get a new pump, the DW is about 10 years old. 

thanks for the input.

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 Posted: Fri Apr 7th, 2006 11:27 am
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Budget Appliance Repair
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Well, it all depends on how much you like this dishwasher and how much you want to spend on it. This is a G.E. built dishwasher and as far as G.E. products go these really aren't that bad of dishwashers.

You could replace the complete motor and pump assembly which would be the easiest but most expensive: CLICK HERE to see and/or order

or you could buy just the new impeller/seal kit and rebuild your pump while it's out: CLICK HERE to see and/or order

Even if the pump isn't leaking yet the machine is 10 years old so it could be in the near future, so it would be a good idea to replace or rebuild the pump/motor assembly while you have it out.



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 Posted: Sat Oct 14th, 2006 09:00 pm
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dlinscott
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Willie,

I have the same problem with a GE GSD4030Z02WW leaking from the drain shaft when the solenoid is activated.  I was wondering whether the shaft pulled out of the pump assembly and I see that is not the way to do it.  But - the plastic piece the soleniod pulls down and the shaft goes through does not seem like I can pull it off the shaft.  The end of the shaft has been rolled (not sure if that is the correct term) so it is larger than the hole it goes through in the plastic.  Does this mean I would have to pull the whole thing apart and pull the shaft out of the valve?

Thanks,

David

 

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 Posted: Sun Oct 15th, 2006 10:19 am
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Budget Appliance Repair
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DO NOT PULL THE SHAFT OUT OF THE PUMP BODY!!!!!!!!!

Should be a little c-clip, remove that and the spring attached to the white plastic control lever. Control lever should slide right off, just a snug fit.

Now you will see a 3/8" or so push-nut, do not try to pull this off the shaft, if you do you will end up pulling the shaft out of the flapper valve inside the pump body. Cut this clip off with a pair of wire cutters and replace it with a new one.

After the push nut is off, use a small screw driver or needle to fish the old seal out, replace the seal and push-nut and reassemble.

Parts you need:
Push-on nut WR2X7054 CLICK HERE to see and/or order
Drain shaft seal WD8X181 CLICK HERE to see and/or order



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 Posted: Sun Oct 15th, 2006 04:22 pm
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dlinscott
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You're absolutely right, of course!  It did come off with a little more force.  There wouldn't be much point in putting that clip on if that piece would not slide off, would there?  Thanks so much for your help.

David

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 Posted: Mon Jul 14th, 2008 09:57 pm
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wandering_burr
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I followed the directions but when i remove the control lever there is no seal or nut in evidence. Just the shaft coming out of the housing. I looked around under the machine looking for evidence it rotted and fell off but could not find anything. The machine is a GE GSD4330Z02WW.

I looked at the posted diagram for this model and it appears that the push nut and seal should be there. Not sure if i'm missing a step that others didn't need explained to them?

I bought the seal locally but no-one here has a push nut in stock. I tried just the seal but that didn't work-still leaks. I now have the push nut on a rush order. Is it safe to assume these instructions are still valid or was there some variant of sealing the shaft that my machine may have?

Thanks.

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 Posted: Tue Jul 15th, 2008 05:44 am
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Budget Appliance Repair
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You said you removed the white lever, is that all you removed?  If so, then that is why you don't see the seal or push-nut that is described.

You have to remove the two or three screws that mount the coil/mounting plate to the pump housing.  Then when you slide the complete coil and  mounting plate off the drain shaft you should see the push-nut that is described, the seal is behind the push-nut.

Whatever you do, DON'T try to pry the push-nut off, the shaft will slide right out of the drain flapper then you will have to pull the complete motor/pump assembly and spend much time, and maybe even fail, trying to get the shaft back in correctly.



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 Posted: Thu Jul 17th, 2008 09:49 pm
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wandering_burr
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Thanks for clearing that up. It was all there as described.

I put in my new seal and push nut and reassembled to the point the clip attached. There was not enough shaft exposed for the clip to attach to and the shaft was so difficult to turn that the spring would not move it.

I found that if i pulled the shaft out about 1/4" it rotated as before and was able to move the push nut down 1/4" and reassembled successfully. Thankfully the shaft still seems to rotate the drain flap as designed.

But when i tested what had been a slow drip only when draining is now a slow drip while running and a quick drip while draining. The new seal seems to be installed the same depth as the old one. The date on the package of the seal was 2004. Either I installed the seal incorrectly, the new seal was defective in some way or there is some other problem causing the leak. I'm pretty confident the leak is around the shaft itself.

I only had the one push nut so am hesitant to monkey with it. I'd love some advice on what to check if i do need to take it all apart again.

Right now the seal is fully inserted into the plastic drain assembly. That is how the old one was sitting. Now i'm thinking that perhaps it is supposed to straddle the hole? And the 'push nut' which is shaped a bit like a pie tin is on with the tin facing out, away from the seal. From the design it seemed this was the right way to go on but thought i'd check.

If i need a new push nut does anyone carry those other than appliance stores? I went to two local hardware stores that could not help me and the GE package does not even print the size on it.  In my case not even the local appliance store had them-he sent me to the box store. But i can widen the net if needed.

-wb

Last edited on Thu Jul 17th, 2008 10:19 pm by wandering_burr

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 Posted: Fri Jul 18th, 2008 06:29 am
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Budget Appliance Repair
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Did you read the instructions that came with the seal and make sure you installed it in the correct direction.

If you installed the seal backwards, (with lip facing wrong way), it will leak.

The push-nut goes on with cupped side pointed out, once installed in correct direction and in correct place, (at the last notch in the shaft down by the seal), the clip holds the drain shaft in the correct position so the flapper seals are lined up in the pump correctly.  Once the push-nut is off the shaft and flapper can be pushed further into the pump and it will bind and lock up, when it is pulled back out to the correct position where the push-nut holds it, it should operate smoothly and the flapper seals should line up correctly inside the pump.



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 Posted: Wed Jul 23rd, 2008 08:36 pm
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wandering_burr
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Did I read the instructions, check.
Did I install the seal in the correct direction as the instructions read, no. sigh.

Got a fresh set of parts and did the fix again today with a successful result. Thanks very much for your help! This site proved invaluable.

For posterity here are a couple of tips for future grasshoppers. I offer this as advice based on my on my single experience with my machine. Use it appropriately.

* The shaft will not slide out of the drain willy nilly. So use caution but my job took much longer the first time because I was afraid it would just jump out at me. As written earlier in the thread the most dangerous time is when you cut the nut off.

* Have at least a six inch pair of side cutters to get through the nut. I used those in combination with a heavy duty pair of channel lock pliers to cut through mine.

* My local appliance parts center sold me the seal but they sent me to a hardware store for the push on nut. i went to two and neither had anything close to what GE ships. Don't leave the house unless you are going to get both the seal and the nut. I ended up getting what i needed from repairclinic.com.

* When you do buy the parts buy two nuts just in case more adjustments are needed. The nut is cheap but dishwasher downtime is not!

* When you place the seal do so carefully, but make sure it is seated nice and tight. I had it seated fully to my naked eye but it was seeping water so i gave it another round of screwdriver presses to really jam it in there before i got a good seal.

* Read the directions twice to make sure the seal is on in the correct direction. The directions come with the seal from GE.

* Make as sure as you can that the seal is good before you put on the push nut. Once that goes on you don't get another chance without cutting it off. In my case i have a  little standing water in the dishwasher that proved a valuable tool in determining if the seal was tight.

* As described in the thread above when the seal is out the shaft has about 1/4" free play. The shaft has a notch in it for the push nut that will hold the shaft in the correct position which is out from the drain as far as the free play will allow. When the push nut is on at the right depth of the shaft it will turn freely (at least mine did).

* If you have questions post them, hopefully you'll get the same quick, helpful replies to your questions that i did to mine.

Cheers,
Wandering_burr

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 Posted: Thu Feb 19th, 2009 09:56 pm
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allistech
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First post!

Hi. I am about to perform this same repair on my 10 year old GE Profile (model GSD5130D00WW) dishwasher and need a bit of advice. Do you recommend removing the dishwasher and placing it on its side for improved access? Or should I be able to do this simply be removing the front kick panel? My inclination is to leave the dishwasher in place.

Thanks!

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 Posted: Fri Feb 20th, 2009 11:19 am
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Budget Appliance Repair
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It can be done with the pump still in the machine and machine mounted in cabinet, but much easier if you remove the pump/motor assembly to get it out and accessable to work on.

The pump/motor assembly can be remove with out taking the machine out of the cabinet, it can be a little hard to get to the inlet boot clamp depending on which the direction the clamp screw is orientated.



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 Posted: Fri Feb 20th, 2009 02:24 pm
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allistech
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Thanks for the advice!

I had not considered removing the pump/motor assembly. I am a total beginner, so for me that seems more risky than either a) removing the whole dishwasher from the cabinet or b) leaving everything in place.

I have a day or two to think it over while I wait for the parts to arrive...

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