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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > G&E Oven heating element replacement questions

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G&E Oven heating element replacement questions  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Fri Mar 3rd, 2006 12:17 am
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RandyC
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Hi,

I have a GE J KP 38GoJ3B-G. I used a flashlight. Read it a few times, but it was very hard to see.

Anyway, the appliance if a double wall oven of some vintage. It has been working fine.

Today, the upper oven's bottom heating element exploded. Well, maybe not a stick of dynamite explosion, but it caught fire and put powder all over the inside of the upper oven.

I thought it would be simple enough to find and replace the element, two 1/4" bolts and then uncrew the wiring lugs. But I am not sure I am finding the exact correct match for the element.

Also, when removing the element, I was surprised to find there is a significant voltage across the terminals or from the terminals to the oven's metal body. Enough voltage to cause me to yank my hand back. Is this normal with the oven not turned on (yes, it was still plugged in)?

Boiling it down:
1. Where should I go to find an element? Is there one I can buy?
2. Is it normal to have a voltage differential there or is this an indication of another problem?
3. Is it time to admit my level of competence has been reached and call for help? Is so, any recommendations?
4. Is this a sign I should replace the appliance?

Thanks for any help!

Randy in San Diego.

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 Posted: Fri Mar 3rd, 2006 12:57 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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You should never even THINK about disassembling any part of any appliance without killing power first. You got off easy on that lesson, some folks aren't so lucky!

Here's the bake element you need:

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=3267


This is a very easy repair... IF one of the element power didn't get burned off by the fireworks.



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 Posted: Fri Mar 3rd, 2006 01:19 am
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RandyC
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You probably would not want to see me re-wiring parts of the home then. :)

Thanks for the advice! Nice forum. I expect I will be back when the next time I need help on the subzero. That should not take long. :)

I ordered the element you linked. Thanks!

Randy

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 Posted: Wed Mar 8th, 2006 01:44 am
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RandyC
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I used your link and replaced the element and it is working fine.

But one exception. The temp and oven control knobs each have a light that stays on when everything should be off. If I turn temp knob to CLEAN, the CONTROL knob light turns off.

Any ideas? Thanks!

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 Posted: Wed Mar 8th, 2006 03:14 am
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Gmaxx



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When the element shorted out it may have damaged one of the controls

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 Posted: Wed Mar 8th, 2006 11:52 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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RandyC wrote:
The temp and oven control knobs each have a light that stays on when everything should be off. If I turn temp knob to CLEAN, the CONTROL knob light turns off.

Any ideas? Thanks!

Would need to see the wiring diagram to hone in on the problem area. It's cleverly hidden in the range, usually either pots drawer compartment or inside the control panel. If you can find it, post it here so we can feast our squinties on it.



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 Posted: Wed Mar 8th, 2006 07:08 pm
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RandyC
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Found it. There was one sheet tucked inside the control panel area. One side is schematic, one is wiring.

Here are the links...

wiring


schematic

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 Posted: Wed Mar 8th, 2006 09:54 pm
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Gmaxx



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Checking the selector switch contacts responsible for the Bake would be a good place to start.

First cut the power to the range.

Set your meter for the ohms/resistance setting.

Go to the upper oven selector switch and run continuity checks between the following terminals

listed below with the switch in the Off position and give us the results. Does the meter change and give you a reading? Or do you get nothing? In this case nothing is good. If you get a reading double check it by pulling one of the wires off of the switch terminals you’re working with then check the switch terminal again. This will insure that you’re not getting a false reading generated by the other components connected to it.

 

Between terminals

A to M

K to D

P to B

 

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 Posted: Wed Mar 8th, 2006 10:29 pm
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RandyC
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Thanks.

K to D is a full short with the switch off and wiring removed.

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 Posted: Wed Mar 8th, 2006 10:57 pm
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Gmaxx



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The contacts have welded themselves together due to the excess current when the element shorted out.  You need a new switch. They are still available but you will pretty much blow a $100 bill to get it.

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 Posted: Wed Mar 8th, 2006 11:19 pm
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RandyC
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Ouch, oh well.

And idea on where to buy a part? Part number?

This is not a newer oven. $100 is close to a good chunk of what a newer similar oven will run. Do you think replacing the switch is a good idea, or should I look to replace the oven? If so, recommended brands?

THANKS again!

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 Posted: Thu Mar 9th, 2006 12:12 am
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Gmaxx



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The upper oven switch shows to be a WB22X5143. You can get it here.. http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=252860  

 Do you think replacing the switch is a good idea, or should I look to replace the oven? If so, recommended brands?
       


Unless its in really bad shape I wouldn't be afraid to repair it. A double oven can be pretty expensive. And I have doubts whether or not you would be able to just slide the old out and a new one in. You may have to do some alteration in order to install it correctly.

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 Posted: Thu Mar 9th, 2006 12:39 am
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RandyC
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Thanks, good advice. I ordered the switch.

Very impressed with the help on this site.

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 Posted: Tue Mar 14th, 2006 04:23 am
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RandyC
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Update:

Received the new control switch today. Good service from repairclinic.

Easily swapped in. Everything works perfectly now.

Thanks again. Great resource.:D

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