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Bosch WTVC3500UC/10 converted to LP  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Wed Oct 13th, 2010 05:17 pm
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kingbob151
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Bosch WTVC3500uc/10 production FD9004. It is a gas dryer purchased from a local big box on 6/9/10 and converted to LP by the propane supplier. The issues I'm having are really weird.

First, the 20 min timed dry cycle will run for 20 mins and the display will count down to 0:00. Then it will go back to 0:01 and run forever, heating all the while. I've had the control board replaced twice, the machine replaced once, and the control replaced again after that. All with the same results.

Second, The auto dry cycles all took 3 times through to dry, even set to extra dry. On the advice of the service tech, I bypassed the current venting system (it went down and out from under the house, 22 ft with 4 90 deg elbows) and cut a new hole out the wall. 2 feet total length. It now drys in 2 cycles witch is better but still unacceptable.

Here are some readings taken by myself and the techs
  • Thermistors read 12.7K and 24.4K @71 degrees ambient
  • Gas fires at 103 and shuts off at 133 exhaust temps measured with ir at vent
  • Outlet polarity and supply are good. 118.6-118.8 VAC
  • Elevation is 2500 ft
Anything suggestions would be helpful

 

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 Posted: Wed Oct 13th, 2010 05:26 pm
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kdog
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Ensure that your dryer has an adequate supply of free air to draw in (from surrounding room), some homes are so tight that you almost need to hook your dryer up to a hoyme valve



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 Posted: Wed Oct 13th, 2010 06:30 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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kingbob151 wrote: ... the current venting system (it went down and out from under the house, 22 ft with 4 90 deg elbows) and cut a new hole out the wall. 2 feet total length....

:burning:  :spaz:

can the Dryer installation be moved closer to an outside wall ?

 



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 Posted: Thu Oct 14th, 2010 07:02 am
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Tronicsmasta



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kingbob151 wrote:

  • Thermistors read 12.7K and 24.4K @71 degrees ambient
  • Gas fires at 103 and shuts off at 133 exhaust temps measured with ir at vent
  • Outlet polarity and supply are good. 118.6-118.8 VAC
  • Elevation is 2500 ft
Anything suggestions would be helpful

 


this is assuming that the dryer is operating properly...
the temps aren't correct. some older dryers had external regulators for propane/butane... double check the gas line to make sure that it does not have any other regulators other than the one on your tank. if you have 2 regulators, the gas flow will not be enough.

the whole point of the LP gas conversion is to change the orifice and to bypass the internal gas regulator.

same concept in reverse, if the technician who installed the LP gas conversion put the wrong orfice in or did not install the top regulator bypass, you will get too much flame and it will trip the hi-limit instead of your thermistor/cntrl adjusting the heat.

i would definatly just double check. its kind of a long shot...



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It is never a bad thing to leave it to the professionals. Inexperience can lead to more damage or risk of injury. You can always call A&E Factory Service (1-800-905-9505), Sears(1-800-469-4663), or local service man you can trust (servicemagic.com).
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 Posted: Thu Oct 14th, 2010 07:03 am
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Tronicsmasta



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btw if the vent is only 2 ft, double check to make sure its not kinked... also, you can run the dryer on propane with the vent off as long as you open doors and windows in that room while testing... try running 2 or 3 loads both timed and auto dry with the vent off... can't stress to you enough the importance of leaving doors and windows open.



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It is never a bad thing to leave it to the professionals. Inexperience can lead to more damage or risk of injury. You can always call A&E Factory Service (1-800-905-9505), Sears(1-800-469-4663), or local service man you can trust (servicemagic.com).
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 Posted: Thu Oct 14th, 2010 07:04 am
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Tronicsmasta



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and another thought.. lol

check to see if the flame is yellow or blue. and get back to us.. you can see the flame with a mirror under the front of the dryer near the gas valve assembly. there is a peep hole.. if you get the right angle, you can see the flame.



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It is never a bad thing to leave it to the professionals. Inexperience can lead to more damage or risk of injury. You can always call A&E Factory Service (1-800-905-9505), Sears(1-800-469-4663), or local service man you can trust (servicemagic.com).
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 Posted: Wed Nov 3rd, 2010 05:18 pm
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kingbob151
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Kdog, there is plenty of secondary air.

RegUS_PatOff the new vent is a strait pipe out the wall behind the dryer. Into the garage. for testing purpose's theres no vent cap and the garage door is wide open.

Tronicsmasta I confirmed the correct orafice spud, although bosch did have conflicting burner specs for lp. one said 15K, one said 18K.

I did find that the L1 and neutral were reversed at the main control. A bad harness. After correcting that, the unit will run down to 0:00 back to 0:01 for an additional 10 min. when set to a 20 min timed dry. When asked about this, bosch said thats the way it is. The retail is going to swap the pair(washer and dryer) for the 500 series. I'll let you know if I get the same results

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 Posted: Tue Nov 30th, 2010 03:45 pm
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kingbob151
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I had the cust contact the local water board. Here is an excerpt from the email he sent me.

1.  Conductivity.  Moisture sensors do just that:  measure the dryness or moisture content of the items being dried.  The conductivity of water provides the path of this measurement between the two source points provided by the sensor.   Here the degree of resistance (or conductance) is read by the sensors, which eventually provides an interpretation to the degree of dryness.  This conductance within water is measured in millimhos per centimeter.  The national average of public tap water conductance is generally above 600 mmhos/cm.  Here, in Monterey Park, it is 750 mmhos/cm. 

I pulled up the latest specifications of the Foresthill water provided by the Foresthill Public Utility District.  The reading astounded me.  We have the public tap water at only 30 mmhos/cm.  That means that our Foresthill water has extremely low calcium and mineral content thus it "could" cause the sensor to read erroneously the amount of water within the source, i.e. clothes.  This could be the reason that the moisture sensor is not working right - it's input source (clothes) has the wrong conductance (water) to which it was designed.  But this wrong conductance cannot be changed since this is our extremely wonderful water being used.  This is a design issue, I believe.  What do we do now?  How do we adjust for different levels of mmhos/cm?  It is an ohms law problem.



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