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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Maytag toploading washer Model SAV2655AWW Leaking water from the shaft

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Maytag toploading washer Model SAV2655AWW Leaking water from the shaft  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Wed Aug 11th, 2010 07:00 pm
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jeffnjm3
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Ok, im getting sick of this washer, reliable my butt!

 

So I've noticed a small puddle coming from under the washer the last few days, I tool the lower cover off and when it goes into a spin cycle water look like it drips down from the spindle and is then thrown all over the inside of the washer(this made locating the leak fun!)  I took out the agitator and I see a shaft.  there is a seal there, do you all think this is my problem?  If not what do you think?  Please give me your thoughts

 

I wanna thank everyone on here, we had a problem with this machine a few months back where the brake was stuck on.  I thought I needed to replace the machine, but I ended up fixing it for $50!

 

Jeff

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 Posted: Wed Aug 11th, 2010 08:21 pm
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appl.tech.29501
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sounds like its time for a bearing and seal kit (or new machine) will let you decide that. what is the serial# of the machine? some special tools are required and a whole lot of labor.



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 Posted: Thu Aug 12th, 2010 10:23 pm
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jeffnjm3
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The serial # is 10417030cx. I don't mind the labor, that comes cheap lol. But what are your thoughts on repair vs replace. Is what you are referring to me to replace the "triple lip seal"? The machine that I have, is it known to have problems? I don't mind putting a few more $$ into it, but if this machine is known to have issues that I havent had yet, maybe a new machine would be best. What are your thoughts? Oh the machine is a little over 6 years old. I thought I would get more than that out of it, my parents had the same set for as long as I can remember

thanks again!!

Jeff (going to drink a Yueungling now)

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 Posted: Thu Aug 12th, 2010 10:43 pm
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appl.tech.29501
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If your willing to do the work you can probably get 8 or so more years out of it. The failure your having now is one of the most labor intensive repairs on this machine. That's why most technicians hate them. I would recommend either replacing the belt and or having one on hand if you decide to go forward with the repair. It's a common thing to wear out over time and easy to install (worth having on hand so you don't have to wait days on a replacement).


Bearing and Seal Kit Link



On the page for the kit you will also see (2) additional items you will need to complete the repair.

Here's a copy of the Service Manual to assist you.

Belt Link



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 Posted: Fri Aug 13th, 2010 12:42 am
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jeffnjm3
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Wow, the parts arent so bad, but when you throw the special tools and sealant in its over $200. I see new washers going for $300. What do you think, reliability-wise, is the best top loading washer to buy? I do not need any frills, i guess just something tough.

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 Posted: Fri Aug 13th, 2010 12:52 am
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appl.tech.29501
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There's nothing "tuff" anymore. The best thing on the market right now is the Whirlpool built (direct drive)machines. you can find these in the Whirlpool, Roper, Estate, Inglis, Kitchen Aid, and Kenmore names...just make sure its the direct drive design. easy to work on and parts are cheap. Use it for 10 years with minimal repairs (normally), chunk it and buy another.



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 Posted: Fri Aug 13th, 2010 01:23 pm
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jeffnjm3
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Thanks, can i get away without the special tools? I'm a back yard mechanic and I have tons of tools and acess to many more. Or do I definately need the special tools? I know sometimes there is no way around using the right tool, but other times you can make it happen. Also that sealant, can I use any automotive sealants instead? I hate to buy $25 tube of sealant for one or two tabs of it. If I have to buy all of the special stuff, its not worth it and I will just buy a new machine, but If i can get away with just the parts I think I will go for it. Seems like new machines with the direct drive start at about $450 Sorry for all the questions, but you have been very helpful and I thank you!

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 Posted: Fri Aug 13th, 2010 02:26 pm
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appl.tech.29501
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You should be able to remove the hub with a pipe wrench and any $5 RTV will work just fine.



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 Posted: Fri Aug 13th, 2010 09:52 pm
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jeffnjm3
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Great thanks, do I need that brake tool or can I get away wiithout it, thats gunna be the straw that breaks the camel's back. Oh and that repairclinic.com is great, last time I ordered parts from them they came very quickly!

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 Posted: Fri Aug 13th, 2010 10:33 pm
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appl.tech.29501
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should be able to get by without it.



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 Posted: Wed May 1st, 2013 11:59 am
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jeffnjm3
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Hi, Which is better for me to get:

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Tub-Seal-and-Bearing-Kit/W10116791/1258432

or

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Tub-Seal-and-Bearing-Kit/W10116790/1256957?modelNumber=SAV2655AWW

btw i did it once with the one your first mentioned about 3 years ago, and now it needs it again, love this washer!

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