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Maytag Dependable Care clothes dryer, Model LDG7304AAL  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Sat Oct 24th, 2009 09:24 pm
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TwoOlives
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Greetings all.

The drum rotates, the timer doesn't.  It did heat up intermittently, but now doesn't. 

The timer does not make the distinctive clicking noise it used to make.  That sound now is muffled. The new sound is like a cloth wrapped stick rotating in a tin car and is evident in any position.  There is no "all done" buzzer.

The machine died slowly over a couple of days.

Anyone know how old this machine is?

Thanks for your time.

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 Posted: Sat Oct 24th, 2009 09:30 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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Is this (no Timer movement) also in the Timed Dry cycle ?

Does the Igniter glow at all ?

Appliance Age Finder

 

 



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 Posted: Sat Oct 24th, 2009 11:03 pm
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TwoOlives
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Hmmm, tried to do an attach twice and got blown out of the site both times.

Ok, so I took off the front of the machine and watched the ignitor glow and the gas ignite.  Neat!

I should have mentioned that the machine also sports the lables: Heavy Duty and  Auto Dry Control.  I don't see any timed dry cycle...I'm thinking that labor is inherent in the Auto Dry feature.

One other item...the ignitor has a 1/4 inch band of brown discoloration about 3/8 inch in from the end opposite the electrical connect.

 

Last edited on Sat Oct 24th, 2009 11:13 pm by TwoOlives

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 Posted: Sun Oct 25th, 2009 12:14 am
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Timed Dry ... = anything other than Auto-Dry

Timer motor in Auto-Dry will only move when the Dryer reaches temperature ..

Does the Flame only stay on for a few minutes ?

Vent temperature should cycle somewhere between 135F and 160F (in Timed Dry)

 

If you have a Harbor Freight Store near you,

click on picture $ 2.99  



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 Posted: Sun Oct 25th, 2009 01:14 am
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TwoOlives
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Harbor Freight...yup, 1/2 hour ride; be there tomorrow.

Don't know about the flame duration...didn't watch long enough. 

Tomorrow will be the acid test.  So, I'll hold the thermometer about 1/2 way down the flame trail and see what it reads.  Thanks.

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 Posted: Sun Oct 25th, 2009 01:22 am
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Thermometer was

Original price $ 3.99

then $ 2.99

now $ 4.99

sometimes on sale ..

 

Vent Temperature at Vent exit of Dryer ...



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 Posted: Sun Oct 25th, 2009 01:25 am
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TwoOlives
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ok..thanks for the "how-to."

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 Posted: Sun Oct 25th, 2009 09:51 am
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Watching the unit fire once or twice is not sufficient to diagnosis the coils.  Let it cycle several times to see if it ever glows, and shuts off without gas ever being released and ignited.  Also, on this unit, since the door is attached to the front, when taking a temp test out the back of the unit, the front must be on or you will cycle on your hi limit every time voiding the results. 



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 Posted: Mon Oct 26th, 2009 12:45 am
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TwoOlives
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Hello...the results of the suggested tests are:

With the front cover off. I turned the machine on in delicate mode. The ignitor glowed and ignited the gas within eight seconds. 15 seconds later, the flame died...the gas stopped flowing.

Turned the machine on again within five seconds: no glow, no gas flow.

Waited 20 minutes and turned the maching on. The flame ignited 13 seconds later and ran for 17 seconds before dying; no glow, no gas.

Waited about 1/2 hour. Turned the machine on. Ignitor glowed and set fire to the gas 13 seconds later. The flame lasted for 12 seconds and stopped. The drum kept rotating, but no glow, no fire.

I replaced the front cover. On delicate,an hour later, the exhaust at the vent measured 163 degrees and shut off.

Again, twenty minutes later, I cranked up the machine again and measured 170 degrees before it stopped.

My wife said that she always thought, since we owned the machine, that the temp on delicate was too hight.

Uhhh, my wife also says that when the timer is in the auto dry mode it won't move, but when it is moved down into a manual mode (the lower third of the dial) it will move.

She just now tried a load of damp laundry and the heat stopped within a couple of minutes.

And that's it so far.

Last edited on Mon Oct 26th, 2009 12:57 am by TwoOlives

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 Posted: Mon Oct 26th, 2009 01:59 am
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TwoOlives wrote:
... With the front cover off..... 15 seconds later, the flame died...the gas stopped flowing.

... She just now tried a load of damp laundry and the heat stopped within a couple of minutes...

Without the Front Cabinet / Door on, it will cycle OFF early (incorrect air-flow)

What was the Vent temperature when the "heat stopped within a couple of minutes" 
Did the Ignitor start to glow again right away ?



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 Posted: Mon Oct 26th, 2009 03:27 am
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TwoOlives
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Don't know what the vent temp was..wasn't checking it at the time she attempted to dry the laundry. But, I will repeat the event tomorrow.

However, I can't see the ignitor with the front cover on so I will be unable to tell you if the ignitor will start to glow again if the machine is restarted. If the exhaust tube becomes hot again, then sure...the ignitor must have got hot again. I'll check the temps tomorrow and let you know. Thanks.

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 Posted: Mon Oct 26th, 2009 03:29 am
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If the Flame is shutting OFF early, (before reaching 135F to 160F),
check to see IF the Ignitor is trying to start right away ... ( but no Flame ? )



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 Posted: Mon Oct 26th, 2009 12:45 pm
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TwoOlives wrote:
However, I can't see the ignitor with the front cover on so I will be unable to tell you if the ignitor will start to glow again if the machine is restarted.

Tape a small mirror to the front panel on the inside right in front of the gas valve/burner assembly.

Observe if ignitor is glowing and going out without igniting flame by looking at mirror thru rear opening, (belt/idler pulley access).



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 Posted: Mon Oct 26th, 2009 08:47 pm
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TwoOlives
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Mirror worked great.  So, here's what happened:

The machine was loaded with semi-damp clothes and started.

Gas ignited about 13 seconds after the machine was turned on.  The ignitor ceased glowing about 7 seconds later but the flame continued.  When the tempterature reached 112 degrees, the flame went out; the ignitor didn't light up again.

I waited a minute and started machine again.   The ignitor glowed for 4 seconds and went out; no flame, no sound of gas.

I waited for 10 minutes and started the machine again.  Got the flame but it quit at 100 degrees.  The ignitor glowed briefly and weakly afterward and then went out; no flame.

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 Posted: Mon Oct 26th, 2009 09:35 pm
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check Vent temperature and Ignitor action again:

empty load

Timed Dry

High Heat setting

 



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 Posted: Tue Oct 27th, 2009 12:11 am
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TwoOlives
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Empty Load: Gas fired at 10 seconds, and the ignitor turned off(went dark) within 6 sconds afterward. The flame quit after 4 minutes; exit temp was 162.5. The ignitor did not come on afterward.

Empty Load, 2nd test: Gas fired at 10 seconds, and the ignitor turned off(went dark) 8 seconds afterward. The flame quite 4 minutes later at 162.9 degrees. The ignitor did not come on afterward.

Empty Load, 3rd test. Gas fired up at 9 seconds, and the ignitor turned off(went dark) 8 seconds afterward. The flame quite 1 minute later at 105 degrees. The ignitor did not come on afterward.

Timed Dry: The ignitor glowed for 8 seconds, but no flame. It turned off(went dark) after twelve seconds. There was no re-ignition glow.

Second attempt: Same as above.

High Heat Setting: Ignitor glowed for 12 seconds and then went dark; there was no flame. There was no re-ignition glow.

Second attempt: Same as above.

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 Posted: Tue Oct 27th, 2009 12:48 am
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tests 1 & 2 are normal .. Ignitor (and Flame) won't come back on till temperature lowers to 135F

sorry for the confusion ... I should have specified:

empty load, Timed Dry, High Heat setting
all in same tests

so far, it could be a bad Cycling Thermostat, Hi-Limit Thermostat, Radient (Flame) Sensor, or maybe even cracked Ignitor ...

Attachment: LDG7304.jpg (Downloaded 27 times)



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 Posted: Tue Oct 27th, 2009 01:47 am
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TwoOlives
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Very nice attached image.  And what would you suggest as an approach?  Are there some electrical values I should be looking for?  And in what order?

 

The 1/4 brown band on the ignitor looks odd--never saw one like that before.  So, I'm naturally for something simple.  A continuity test on the ignitor?--maybe take it out and see if there's a hair line crack that might expand when heated and interrupt the cicruitry?

Although unscientific, and not inkeeping with the Samurai rules of repair...if you were to replace any of the four parts you indicate...which would be the order?

Thanks for your patience.

 

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 Posted: Tue Oct 27th, 2009 01:54 am
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OHMS test may show good (at times) ...
also note:  may be 400 OHMs or more (anything less than infinity is OK)

I'd start with a good visual look at the Ignitor problem you mentioned ...

careful, they're fragile and also shouldn't be touched with bare skin (oils, etc..)



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 Posted: Tue Oct 27th, 2009 03:04 am
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Budget Appliance Repair wrote:
Tape a small mirror to the front panel on the inside right in front of the gas valve/burner assembly.

Observe if ignitor is glowing and going out without igniting flame by looking at mirror thru rear opening, (belt/idler pulley access).

One of those great "now,why didn't I think of that" moments ..................



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