|
FAQs | Parts | Service | Store | Newsletter | Sitemap | Beer | Home |
ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > 106.58124700 condensate tray breakage |
|
FAQs | Parts | Service | Store | Newsletter | Sitemap | Beer | Home |
ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > 106.58124700 condensate tray breakage |
Konnichiwa and Welcome!Please register or watch this short screencast on how to get started here.
|
| Moderated by: RegUS_PatOff, Pegi | ||
| Author | Post | |||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
|
Volkemon Master Appliantologist 
|
HI! We have had two new kenmore friges with the same problem- condensate pan breakage. The first was due to the foam block below the water filter housing being displaced during shipping, and the housing pressing on the tray. The second was due (I think...) to the taping of the tray. There are two pieces of tape holdimg the tray down, one front one back. When these were installed, they were pulled tight enough to cause an upward bow to the tray. This eventually led to the plastic cracking. Both friges were JUST out of the one year warranty. This fault appeared as a water leak complaint. Any ideas on how to check and see if this is a recall problem? We have several of these friges on property, and I dont look forward to fixing them all as the leaks appear. IMO, the super thin plastic of the tray is at fault. Thanks!! |
|||||||||||
|
RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
|
I think manufacturers only do recalls if it's a safety issue (dangerous or hazardous). |
|||||||||||
|
Pegi Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
|
I have read to seal the cracks with aluminum tape or some sort of plastic sealing stuff in a tube perhaps, there is no pressure on the tray as would be on a water line..epoxy perhaps ...something that would seal to plastic and be water proof...replacing these pans sounds like a major undertaking as i understand the whole refrigerator has to be removed off of the pan.... |
|||||||||||
|
Volkemon Master Appliantologist
|
Thank you Sublime Masters! @regUS_PAToff- thanks. that does make sense... @Pegi - no, it is not necessary to pull off the base. Turn off water supply. Remove the back cover, take off the two mounting screws for the water valves, pull them out far enough to remove the return line coming from the water filter housing. Tape the end to seal against contamination.(I use painters tape as to have no residue) Remove the screw/clamp holding the main water supply line(goes to the filter housing) to the back of the fridge. While you are there, cut the piece of tape holding the condensate tray in the back. Now move to the front. Remove the lower grille. Remove the brace wire to the filter housing. Remove the foam block that is under the filter housing. Remove the two 5/16 screws that attach the housing to the frame. Now gently pull the filter housing assy out the front. You may have to feed in a little slack from the back to allow removal. Place it to the side. Now cut the tape holding the front edge of the pan to the frame. You can now gently remove the tray out the front. For now, I did a temporary repair using foil AC tape. Inside and out, and burnish well. Replacement is the opposite of removal. Feed the filter-to-valve line carefully back towards the valves so you can reach it from the back. The replacement part is $22. We have two coming. If they turn out to be the same lousy quality as the original, I may have to use one as a mold and pursue doing a fiberglass layup over it, pull that off and use it instead. I am NOT going to be subjecting myself and the residents to yearly leaks. Or... it wouldnt be that tough to use vaccum molding method and use a thicker ABS...faster also after the initial setup. I will report back with attempts/results. Last edited on Thu Jun 18th, 2009 09:23 pm by Volkemon |
|||||||||||
|
RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
|
Defrost drain pan (The manufacturer has replaced part number 1105523 with this item, part number 842041.) (Manufacturer part number 842041 is RepairClinic item number 730403.) click on picture $26  SearPartsDirect lists 1105523 $22 (no mention of replacement number) SearPartsDirect lists 842041 $19 there is an ongoing 20% parts coupon for SearsPartsDirect |
|||||||||||
|
Budget Appliance Repair Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
|
Volkemon, you might want to just go thru all the units that have these and cut the tape that is holding the pan in place so as to relieve the stress that maybe causing them to crack. They are basically taped in for shipping so that they don't fall out of place. |
|||||||||||
|
Volkemon Master Appliantologist
|
@ regUS_patoff.. THANKS!!! That picture shows a black tray..probably made from ABS now...much less brittle than the original.. About that 20% off coupon- Whazzat?!? @Willie- Thanks for saving me from myself  That is a GREAT idea... |
|||||||||||
|
RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
|
Find a part > MODEL# > PART# Plastic Drip Tray Whirlpool 842041 This product replaces:
this year & month code..... 90007 |
|||||||||||
|
Volkemon Master Appliantologist
|
Thanks! Unfortunately, I only put in the requests to the purchase agent, I dont actually do the buying. But I will pass this on to the purchasing agent... Assuming this works on a commercial account. We will find out! Thanks again! My manager has been VERY pleased with the fine information and help I have been recieving here. I paid the lifetime fee out of my pocket, and now the company will be reimbursing me on it.  <edit>Oh also... sears has the other pan on backorder until july3. We will have to wait and see..... Last edited on Fri Jun 19th, 2009 07:09 pm by Volkemon |
|||||||||||
|
Volkemon Master Appliantologist
|
Evap pans came in yesterday. Evidently, 842041 is already a working replacement for the white flimsy trays. No recycle symbol, but feels and looks like my buddy ABS plastic. MUCH better for this app. Guess I can put the thermoforming rig away... AND...surprise surprise, MADE IN THE US. A July 4 present...  May everone have a happy, safe Independence Day Celebration!! |
|||||||||||
|
Volkemon Master Appliantologist
|
Well, tray update.... Got the new ones, just opened them today. Little smaller than the original, makes it possible to slip it in from the front. Remove the foam support, two srews and move the filter housing out of the way as much as you can. Sponge out the water in the old tray,Bend the metal tab down, then remove it out the front. It will probably make the trip out on two pieces, or more. Who cares? Ya got a new one. But FIRST- Check the new one and make sure it isnt cracked in the bag, like mine was. LUCKY for me I ordered two... Unfortunately, the tray is the same sh*tty quality...Might be ABS, but it is so thin you have to be careful. The only improvement seems to be that it is narrower than the original, so it clears a bracket in the front. Back to the drawing board... |
|||||||||||
|
grey one Sublime Master of Appliantology 
|
I have never tried it , but would fiber glass like in auto body work? |
|||||||||||
|
Volkemon Master Appliantologist
|
Greetings Grey One! Yes, fiberglass would work. Not a tough layup to do over the broken replacement piece I have, either. A fine surfboard cloth, and about 8oz of epoxy resin should make a useable, MUCH stronger replacement. AND... if I got the ambition, setting up a multi-unit board, and doing 8-10 at a time, could even be economically feasable over paying $20+ apiece. A better answer might be to make a two part press mold and use a light gauge aluminum. About the same finish time, no chemicals, but vibration noise against the bottom would make a need for a anti-rattle pad on the bottom. That would make it a pain on the install... We will see. I will post results here in the Dojo. |
|||||||||||
FAQs | Parts | Service | Store | Newsletter | Sitemap | Beer | Home
