 |
PM |  | |
Quote | | |
Reply | | |
Full Topic | |
| Joined: | Sat Apr 2nd, 2005 |
| Location: | Eureka, California USA |
| Posts: | 2364 |
| Status: |
Offline
|
This leads me to what will probably sound like a really stupid question.
If the motor only runs at 120V, why is my dryer powered by 240V? What's the point to devoting a separate 240 line to it? If the motor can't use 240, why are there two leads devoted to carrying it thru the wiring harness?
In audio, we have "step-down" transformers. Isn't that what the motor should be doing with the incoming 240V?
OK, that's more than one stupid question, but I'm feeling like a very slow learner right about now.
Thanks again.
Ok, some training for ya!!!! You only need 120 volts to power the control board, run the motor and power the drum lamp and console light tube.
This dryer has an electric heating element and it takes the 240 volts to power the heating element.
Now to your testing and why your getting 247 volts at pins 2 and 6 is because you are testing at the wrong pins, (pins 1 and 2 on the motor is the centrifugal switch which closes when the motor is running so the heater doesn't come on unless the motor is actually running). The 89 volts you are getting when it's not running is junk voltage reading from line2 to the open contact at pin 6.
Don't worry about pins 1 and 2. You should be doing your test at pin 4(Line1) and pin 5(Neutral to motor), pin 4 may not actually be in the motor connector plug, it will be the blue wire coming off the belt switch going directly to the thermal overload protector on the motor.
To test and make sure the motor is ok you can attach it directly to a test cord, (an old appliance cord with alligator clips or spade connectors), attach one end to pin 4 or the overload protector and the other to pin 5 and plug the cord in to a wall socket. If the motor is ok it will start and run.
You say you checked the door switch, are you sure you checked it correctly??
There are two circuits in the door switch, one circuit is neutral to the motor or when door is open, neutral to drum lamp. The other circuit is the low voltage door switch that the board uses to sense that the door is closed.
Any chance you have D2 & D3 to the door switch reversed so that when the door is closed the light comes on instead of going out?
Does the drum light come on when you open the door?
You say you checked the thermal fuse? Did you check the white plastic one on the blower next to the thermistor or the one on the heater next to the hi-limit safety t-stat?
If you have the door switch wiring correct, and have double checked that the thermal fuse is ok and the motor works ok on a test cord, there is a good chance the motor control relay is bad or the control board itself.
With everything put back together and with the control board counting down the time but motor not running you will need to see if you have 12 volts DC to the relay coil on the motor relay. If 12 VDC is present at the relay coil then you have a bad motor relay, if no 12 VDC is present then most likely a bad control board.
____________________
William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501