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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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Posted: Thu Sep 28th, 2006 17:12 |
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I was so overcome with gratitude that I sent the manual to your Paypal account: *******@att.net
Domo!
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Samir Rustagi
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Tue Oct 3rd, 2006 05:18 |
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O wise one, I am also in need of wisdom. I too have a  sick T760 ASKO Dryer, in need of some TLC. The rollers and belt need replacement. Please show me the way of the Ancient Arts (repair manual) if you find my offerings to your satisfaction.
Sincerely,
Your apprentice,
Samir
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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Posted: Tue Oct 3rd, 2006 05:30 |
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A token of my appreciation for your love-offering has been sent. Enjoy. 
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Samir Rustagi
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Posted: Mon Oct 9th, 2006 04:54 |
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Asko dryer overheating.........
Now that I have sucessfully replaced the drum roller wheels, and the belt, the noise of howling puppies in the dryer has gone away. Now I have noticed the dryer will shut off in mid cycle due to it overheating. The rear panel of the dryer gets too hot to touch for much longer than about 5 seconds. Is that normal?
To restart the dryer I have to reset the button in the back of the machine.
Currently the dryer is venting directly into my crawl space (to be rectified soon), so there is really no vent pipe air flow restriction or blockage. The existing vent is long and clogged and needs a full replacement. Will replace with a rigid pipe system. It will still be about 25 feet long. I realize that a shorter pipe is better, but this is what I have to work with. I was thinking of using the white 4" rigid pipe, instead of the flex metal one. What do you think? Should I consider using the larger pipe diameter, to reduce flow resistance?
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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Posted: Mon Oct 9th, 2006 16:48 |
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| What type of material are you using for the dryer vent? If the spiral-slinky stuff, then if may be crushed and restricting air flow.
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Samir Rustagi
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Posted: Mon Oct 9th, 2006 19:05 |
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The current vent material is the aluminium semi rigid pipe that can be purchased at Home Depot. It is fully clogged and is a real mess. Big globs of duct tape hold it together. The material I was thinking of replacing it with is the white PVC 4" rigid pipe. It comes in 8 to 10 foot lengths and must be glued together using the PVC cement. I figured I could significantly reduce the line friction. I am not sure if PVC pipe will meet code or not.
The last option I am considering is purchasing an industrial grade flex tubing designed to handle higher temperatures. This stuff looks like shopvac type hose but is very expensive. Around a 100 bucks for 25'. The good thing about this item is that it is continuous.
I also opened up the blower fan to check for lint. I did start up the dryer, and I was surprised to see the squirrel cage blower fan spinning with a wobble. Is this normal or should I replace the fan?
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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Posted: Wed Oct 11th, 2006 04:52 |
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I refer you to my seminal work on this topic: http://fixitnow.com/2003/10/appliance-tip-of-day-ultimate-dryer.htm
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despenla
Apprentice Appliantologist
| Joined: | Mon Dec 11th, 2006 |
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Posted: Mon Dec 11th, 2006 22:07 |
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Having made a love-offering to the applia-temple, i was so moved by the dryer enlightenment in your pages that i could not resist donating to the Beer Fund.
Oh Master, perhaps you could enlighten me more from your vast store of fermented manual knowledge?
Helping to stamp out cheap beer through do-it-yourself dryer repair.
Last edited on Mon Dec 11th, 2006 22:18 by despenla
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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Posted: Tue Dec 12th, 2006 02:45 |
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despenla wrote: Oh Master, perhaps you could enlighten me more from your vast store of fermented manual knowledge?
Domo for your love-offerings to my flavorite charity. 
And it would warm my sake to provide you with further dryer enlightenment. Just start a new topic in this forum.
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sailordude
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Sun Jan 27th, 2008 21:16 |
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I have also suffered the curse of the screaming demons within an ASKO T701. Your wisdom is great and so much appreciated. I have made a small modest donation in hopes of a manual gift.
I have ordered the parts above and look forward to again being able to have conversations in the home while the ASKO dehydrates my clothes.
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refresher
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Sat May 31st, 2008 22:22 |
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Hello,
I just replaced the belt on my T760, following all valuable info and advise found here. It was not that difficult. But while there I found a part that was not attached to anything, just lying on the bottom. It is white plastic cap has code 8061956. Appliance Part list it but their listing only says "Series 700 Cap" and no picture. Does anybody know what that cap should be attached to and how critical is it?
Also, while stringing my new belt on the pulley, I noticed that the pulley has a lip only on one (closer to the motor) side. It does not look like the other side is broken or torn, but I am not sure how it holds the belt. Maybe it was iriginal design at the time I bought the dryer (around 2001). I would love to confirm that pulley should have lips on both sides. I will then order a new pulley and will (although not with much pleasure) again get to the dryer guts.
Thank you for your comments/answers.
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RegUS_PatOff
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Posted: Sat May 31st, 2008 22:52 |
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Part # 8061956 is # 12 in the diagram
What pulley part number are you talking about, number 20 in the diagram ?
Attachment: Page from 3_T760.png (Downloaded 58 times)
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refresher
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Posted: Tue Jun 3rd, 2008 20:12 |
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Thank You for the drawing RegUS_PatOff!
Yes, pulley that I am writing about is # 20.
I see # 12 but what is its function there? Is it supposed to be attached to the L-shaped duct? Incodentally, that L-shaped duct has 3 holes in it, is that cap # 12 covering the holes? (I covered them with duct tape for time being as the lint just blowing inside the dryer gut thru them.)
Thanks to anybody who can confirm.
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RegUS_PatOff
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Posted: Tue Jun 3rd, 2008 20:28 |
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refresher wrote: ... Also, while stringing my new belt on the pulley, I noticed that the pulley has a lip only on one (closer to the motor) side. It does not look like the other side is broken or torn, but I am not sure how it holds the belt. Maybe it was iriginal design at the time I bought the dryer (around 2001). I would love to confirm that pulley should have lips on both sides. I will then order a new pulley and will (although not with much pleasure) again get to the dryer guts..
from the pictures, I don't see a difference in the lips from either view.
Asko # 8801058
click on picture
Last edited on Tue Jun 3rd, 2008 20:29 by RegUS_PatOff
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altoterrra
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Sun Sep 14th, 2008 03:46 |
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I needed a new motor and belt - replaced eveything and now doesn"t power on. Any help - first I need to know proper order of the Black Blue and White wire connection on the back of the unit. Then there wee 2 wies that i disconnected - brown and white and now not sure whee they attach to? could this be my problem?
Thanks
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RegUS_PatOff
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Posted: Sun Sep 14th, 2008 04:01 |
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probably...
Wire colors are not shown in the Wiring Diagram nor the Service Manual.
Maybe someone else on this forum can help you.
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sdl
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Posted: Thu Oct 16th, 2008 05:35 |
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I plan on replacing the broken belt on my Asko T701 dryer. Can you provide me with the Asko service manual?
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RegUS_PatOff
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Posted: Thu Oct 16th, 2008 06:06 |
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| to where ?
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sdl
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Posted: Thu Oct 16th, 2008 12:56 |
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Again, thanks for e-mailing the manual.
you can contact me offline at (removed email address).
Last edited on Fri Oct 17th, 2008 15:19 by sdl
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RegUS_PatOff
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Posted: Thu Oct 16th, 2008 14:25 |
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| manual sent
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