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F&P GW709AU problem  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Mon Oct 18th, 2010 08:02 am
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gasgrassorarse
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Just found this forum thanks.

We just got donated a Fisher and Paykel GW709AU as its previous owner replaced it with a new one as it has some issues.


The main issue is that it will complete the wash cycle, then start to pump the water out.

It pumps about 3 buket loads then the machine just goes dead. No lights, no warning codes, nothing....

The only way to start it again is to unplug the power, then leave it about 5 minutes, and plug it in again, skipping through to the spin cycle.

My thoughts are that it is an issue with the pump, maybe a slight leak or something as they did tell me that it had a puddle of water under it afterward.

I did find a perished rubber fitting on the outlet hose so I replaced that and it does not leak now, but still turns completedly dead.

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 Posted: Mon Oct 18th, 2010 08:47 am
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J5

 

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you will likely find the pump is overheating

once it cools down it works agin for a short time

on that model power runs through the pump and then to the electronics

i would replace the pump asap before you smoke the electronics

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 Posted: Tue Oct 19th, 2010 03:19 am
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gasgrassorarse
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J5 wrote:
you will likely find the pump is overheating

once it cools down it works agin for a short time

on that model power runs through the pump and then to the electronics

i would replace the pump asap before you smoke the electronics


Damn it..... Too late, this morning it smoked the motherboard. A sharp BANG and it was dead, a tiny puff of smoke :'( I just ordered the new pump 30 minutes earlier.

Now, how hard (and cost) to replace the motherboard it smoked?? Or can the capacitor be easily replaced??

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 Posted: Tue Oct 19th, 2010 05:25 am
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Tronicsmasta



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shoot... you need to check for shorts. ohm out the motor and the diverter. we had a major issue with water leaking on the diverted and causing the wax motor to short. the new ones come with a plastic cover. you can order the diverter by itself, or it comes with a new drain hose assembly.



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It is never a bad thing to leave it to the professionals. Inexperience can lead to more damage or risk of injury. You can always call A&E Factory Service (1-800-905-9505), Sears(1-800-469-4663), or local service man you can trust (servicemagic.com).
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 Posted: Tue Oct 19th, 2010 05:45 am
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gasgrassorarse
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Tronicsmasta wrote:
shoot... you need to check for shorts. ohm out the motor and the diverter. we had a major issue with water leaking on the diverted and causing the wax motor to short. the new ones come with a plastic cover. you can order the diverter by itself, or it comes with a new drain hose assembly.

Thanks boss~! I just checked the board and there is a 2 amp and a 4 amp onboard ceramic? fuse. Both are bopped, there is also a diode blown (cracked) next to the 2 amp fuse.

I have "since" read another forum's suggestion to add a 2amp inline fuse to the motor lol.......

Too little too late for our mainboard.


Now, there is a few components on the mainboard that "could" be replaced, the 2 x fuses, the diode, and one small chip with 3 legs which is on the other side of the board. I guess it is not worth it because other stuff may well be fried from ESD too :'(

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 Posted: Tue Oct 19th, 2010 05:47 am
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Tronicsmasta



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indeed... serious about the shorts... i think if i remember right there are 2 orange wires to the diverter from the board... ohm those with a meter... also ohm out the pump..

yea ya fried it...



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It is never a bad thing to leave it to the professionals. Inexperience can lead to more damage or risk of injury. You can always call A&E Factory Service (1-800-905-9505), Sears(1-800-469-4663), or local service man you can trust (servicemagic.com).
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 Posted: Tue Oct 19th, 2010 05:48 am
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Tronicsmasta



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oh and ohm out the motor windings too.. you should get 16 or 33 ohms on each of the 3 windings... ie blue to yellow, blue to red, red to yellow... not sure if those are the colors... sometimes on the F&P they are all brown or something weird..



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It is never a bad thing to leave it to the professionals. Inexperience can lead to more damage or risk of injury. You can always call A&E Factory Service (1-800-905-9505), Sears(1-800-469-4663), or local service man you can trust (servicemagic.com).
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 Posted: Tue Oct 19th, 2010 07:20 am
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J5

 

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its 10 years old or maybe older

you are in aus ?

pump is about $90

board is about $170

atm a 7.5kg runs at $649

has the out of balance switch ever been replaced as that would be another addition and in a couple of years some new valves as well

 

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 Posted: Tue Oct 19th, 2010 09:22 am
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gasgrassorarse
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J5 wrote:
its 10 years old or maybe older

you are in aus ?

pump is about $90

board is about $170

atm a 7.5kg runs at $649

has the out of balance switch ever been replaced as that would be another addition and in a couple of years some new valves as well


Thanks for that :D Havent seen too many new "known brand's" around here for under the $800 mark even on the big sale days.

The OOB switch was done by the previous owner about 2 years ago, it looks and tests fine :D too.


Is it possible to pick up a secondhand board??

We do also have the 609 that I bought new 10 years ago but it is only 6.5kg.
F&P said it has the same board..... and I looked at it and it is the same casing and almost identical part number So, I was thinking about buying a brand new pump and then changing the boards and then get a (secondhand) board to put back into the 609 to flog it off.

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 Posted: Tue Oct 19th, 2010 09:23 am
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gasgrassorarse
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Tronicsmasta wrote:
indeed... serious about the shorts... i think if i remember right there are 2 orange wires to the diverter from the board... ohm those with a meter... also ohm out the pump..

yea ya fried it...


What is the diverter?? Where is it located>?

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 Posted: Tue Oct 19th, 2010 01:50 pm
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gasgrassorarse
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This is what the back of the motor controller board looks like now:

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 Posted: Wed Oct 20th, 2010 04:23 am
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J5

 

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your washer doesnt have a divertor

yes the board is the same you just need to set the size so a change of pump and swap board

you will be lucky to find a 2nd hand board so just swap board and pump over and good to go

To set the size switch turn the power on at the power point and off at the console. Press and hold the
TEMPERATURE UP button then press the POWER button. Smartdrive will give 4 short beeps and the
pattern of LEDs will change.
• Press TEMPERATURE UP button, the COLD LED is on for 5-5.5kg (560mm wide).
• Press WATER LEVEL UP button, the LOW WATER LED is on for 6-6.5kg (600mm wide).
• Press SPIN SPEED UP button, the SPIN HOLD LED is on for 7-7.5kg (650mm wide).
• Press POWER to exit this mode.

sell the other machine on ebay

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 Posted: Wed Oct 20th, 2010 06:29 am
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Tronicsmasta



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wasn't sure if this machine was the same as the US models or not...



____________________
It is never a bad thing to leave it to the professionals. Inexperience can lead to more damage or risk of injury. You can always call A&E Factory Service (1-800-905-9505), Sears(1-800-469-4663), or local service man you can trust (servicemagic.com).
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 Posted: Wed Oct 20th, 2010 02:25 pm
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gasgrassorarse
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Thankyou so much for all this awesome info Tronicsmasta and JS :) Extremely accurate, useful and thanks again :)


The pump in the 6.5kg is currently in use and is working fine (no bad sounds etc), but my concern is that if I transfer it to the 7.5 then it may leak...

Would it be OK to use a urethane windscreen sealant to run around the sealing face on the pump from the 6.5kg if I was to use it? (we never use hot or even warm water to wash)

It just seems pointless to buy a new pump just to ensure a good watertight seal.

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 Posted: Thu Oct 21st, 2010 05:32 am
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J5

 

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i wouldnt worry about the seal , they dont tend to leak

i often remove them for blockages and refit no problem

I wouldnt bother with any glue or sealant at all

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 Posted: Fri Oct 22nd, 2010 05:59 am
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gasgrassorarse
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Ok, so I got the pump and the controller board from the 6.5kg installed to the 7.5kg and installed the 2amp fast blow fuse in the power wire at the pump but now I have another problem.

Powered on and it was beeping so I set the board to 7.5kg as instructed, connected the water etc, and put a "test load" on.

The water pulses on and off like the water inlet is faulty.
I placed 20 litres of water into the bowl via bucket and placed it to pump but it doesnt pump out.

Tested at the board socket with multimeter and it shows fine there.

Any ideas??

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 Posted: Fri Oct 22nd, 2010 06:00 am
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gasgrassorarse
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The inlet valves were also still attached to the 6.5kg donor board.

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 Posted: Fri Oct 22nd, 2010 06:01 am
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gasgrassorarse
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and were working today when the 6.5kg was last used.

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 Posted: Fri Oct 22nd, 2010 10:59 am
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J5

 

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either an rps or out of balance fault

check the out of balance leaver is ok , its located at around 1 oclock of the bowl pushing the bowl back and forth should check the switch is working

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 Posted: Fri Oct 22nd, 2010 11:17 am
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gasgrassorarse
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I checked the OOB so I guess it is now down to the RPS. That was my final item to test but I dont know the procedure lol

Ok, to replace the RPS how do I go about that?> Is there any special stuff I need to do?

Thanks again, I really appreciate your time :)

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