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Maytag Performa PAV3360AWW motor stops  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Wed Nov 11th, 2009 06:42 am
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NickDiesel
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Ok...spent several hours of browsing forums and searching the internet for an answer to my problem, and hours of messing around with the washer. The washer stopped the other day in the middle of washing my whites. I couldn't get it to spin, agitate, do anything. Pulled my clothes out, emptied as much water as I could and proceeded to troubleshoot:

The washer has no problem filling and will stop when it gets to the right level. Once the washer has seized up, if I wait a while, I can plug it back in and get it to start moving again, whether agitating or spinning, but this only lasts for 3 to 10 seconds before it stops, usually with squeaking and an acrid smell, like burnt plastic.

After doing a quick check on the internet, it seemed most likely that I needed a thrust bearing kit. Went to the appliance service store, guy said it sounded right, and took the kit home to install it. Replaced the parts, tested the brake, made sure the arrow was within the posts when I turned the pulley. Set the washer back up, but now the tub would spin with an awful screeching sound. Assuming I must have done something wrong, or should have used a thicker washer, I set to pull the bearing kit off and retry. The thicker washer was simply to thick to get the retaining clip on (spent 2 hours on that alone). Went back to the thinner washer and tested again, now with the washer doing the same 3 to 10 second spin or agitate before completely stopping, again with the smell.

Took the top and front off, pulled out the tub, unable to find anything stuck anywhere. When I turn the center pulley on the bottom clockwise, the agitator will slowly turn. When I turn the center pulley counter-clockwise, the basket will turn. The brake catches at certain points like I believe it's supposed to. If I grab the transmission directly to turn it (as it turns with the basket when I turn the pulley) it won't turn or will budge just slightly.

There is plenty of shavings around the bottom on the inside, which I believe is from the snubber ring, so if I figure out what's wrong with the rest of it, it'll get changed out too...but I need to know if this washer worth fixing or just finding a replacement off Craig's List.

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 Posted: Wed Nov 11th, 2009 06:55 am
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kdog
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Does the pump turn freely?



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 Posted: Wed Nov 11th, 2009 11:37 am
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ROBBYRIG
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I'd be leaning towards a bad motor.

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 Posted: Wed Nov 11th, 2009 02:34 pm
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NickDiesel
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The pump and motor pulleys turn with no problems. I can grab the belt and pull it either direction and they all turn without seizing or stopping, except when the brake catches.

Last edited on Wed Nov 11th, 2009 02:48 pm by NickDiesel

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 Posted: Wed Nov 11th, 2009 02:57 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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so ... is it the Motor that is over-heating and smelling ?

Remove the Belt and check the Motor Shaft to see if it turns easily, smoothly.

Run the Washer with the Belt removed to see if the Motor still over-heats.

 



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 Posted: Wed Nov 11th, 2009 03:29 pm
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NickDiesel
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Yes, the shaft turns easily back and forth. I'll try running it sans belt this evening.

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 Posted: Wed Nov 11th, 2009 05:07 pm
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appl.tech.29501
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I agree with REG. If it passes that test I woukd double check that pump pulley. I have seen them intermit.....look between the metal pump base and the pulley and see if you can see a shiny wavey metal ring. If not its probably good. Most likely the motor



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 Posted: Thu Nov 12th, 2009 03:33 am
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NickDiesel
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So I removed the belt and ran the motor. Ran it for a few minutes...sounded like when someone puts a vacuum motor on a bicycle. I put the rest of the washer back together and put the belt back on. Ran it again...ran it for a few minutes, but it sounded like it was spinning too fast (though I doubt it actually was, just sounded like it). I figured it might be that it was because it was empty. When I would stop it though, it would emit a loud sharp squeal, assuming the brake, as it reminded me of when the car with the squealing brakes pull up next to you at the red light. Also had a nice jerk when it stopped. Started and stopped it a couple more times with the same effect.

Proceeded to load a small wash load and fill the washer. A few seconds after it filled and started spinning, it froze up again and would not spin, etc. Left it alone for a couple of hours and returned. Spun the dial down to "spin" and started it up. This time it kept going, but sounded like it was spinning too fast again. I waited until the water was pumped out (the pump was definitely sounding like it was heaving out the last of the water) and stopped it. Another loud shrill squeak and jerking of the washer.

Removed the clothes and restarted the washer on spin. Sounded again "too fast" and jerked when I stopped it. I am now planning on starting a cycle with an empty tub, letting it fill with water and then seeing if it seizes again. When it does, I'll carefully flip it back (seeing as how the tub will have water in it) and remove the belt, and let you know if the motor starts to spin again or remains frozen.

Thanks for all the help you gents have provided thus far.

Last edited on Thu Nov 12th, 2009 03:57 am by NickDiesel

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 Posted: Thu Nov 12th, 2009 03:55 am
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NickDiesel
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By shiny metal wavey ring, would it look like corrugated steel wrapped around the shaft between the pulley and the base?

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 Posted: Thu Nov 12th, 2009 03:56 am
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NickDiesel
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Also, I was unable to get the motor to seize with a tub of only water. Had two distinct sounds...one like the little engine that could and one a constant mild shrieking.

Returning the clothing to the tub in order to try and get it to seize again.

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 Posted: Thu Nov 12th, 2009 04:19 am
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NickDiesel
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Clothes back in the washer...water fills....motor hums for a few seconds before shutting down. Tilted back, removed the belt, washer won't do anything--assuming the motor is still cooling down. Have removed the clothes and am waiting to be able to restart it with the belt and flush out the water.

:(

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 Posted: Thu Nov 12th, 2009 10:40 am
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NickDiesel wrote: By shiny metal wavey ring, would it look like corrugated steel wrapped around the shaft between the pulley and the base?
Is that what your are seeing?????

If not you must of seen one like this in the past because you are describing perfectly what it looks like.

If it is, that is exactly what appl.tech.29501 is talking about.  You have a bad pump and it's probably periodically seizing up and causing the problem.



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 Posted: Fri Nov 13th, 2009 01:12 am
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NickDiesel
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Yes, that's what I'm seeing. Is there anything else I should check to make sure I'm not seeing a multiple component failure?

I assume I just need the pump, not the part number with the pump and assembly, correct? How are the non-OEM parts?

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 Posted: Fri Nov 13th, 2009 10:50 am
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Budget Appliance Repair
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NickDiesel wrote: Yes, that's what I'm seeing. Is there anything else I should check to make sure I'm not seeing a multiple component failure?

I assume I just need the pump, not the part number with the pump and assembly, correct? How are the non-OEM parts?

If the main transmission pulley turns nice and smooth and easy in the agitate direction without any binding and the brake releases and the tub spins without any gritty, (bearing problem), feel then you should be ok and just need the pump.

The pump only comes as a complete unit, not any separate parts to it.

It list two different pumps and the one you need depends on what series your washer is, (the first two numbers of the serial# is the series #).

Series 16 and above: 35-6780
http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=1480294

any series less then 16: 35-6465
http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=1480289

As far as a non-OEM, (aftermarket part), I don't know, haven't heard of any one using and having problems or not with these aftermarket pumps, (RepairClinic will only be genuine OEM parts).   Although as much as these OEM pumps have problems the aftermarket ones couldn't be much worse.



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