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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Kenmore 110.60932990 won't heat |
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| Moderated by: RegUS_PatOff, Pegi, appl.tech.29501 |
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| Kenmore 110.60932990 won't heat | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Sat Oct 31st, 2009 03:40 am |
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1st Post |
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danix Grasshopper
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Man, am I frustrated. OK, here's the saga. Kenmore aka Whirlpool "Even Heat" dryer.
Last edited on Sat Oct 31st, 2009 03:58 am by danix |
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| Posted: Sat Oct 31st, 2009 04:01 am |
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2nd Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Thermistor is a "variable resistor" that senses temperature ... about 12 k OHMS at ambient Heater Element should be about 10 OHMS Relay test P3-1 to P3-2 will test the Relay Coil voltage, but won't tell you if the Relay is operating, or if the Contacts are good. You could try swapping the (2) Relays to see if the Motor will then not run .... 110.60932990 Tech Sheets also: Any part ordered from RepairClinic can be returned in original condition within 30 days for a refund (less shipping).
____________________ RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” (also in HQ) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA Upon leaving this Earth "Do you want the Smoking or Non-Smoking section ?" |
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| Posted: Sat Oct 31st, 2009 04:19 am |
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3rd Post |
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danix Grasshopper
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Thanks, those are the same sheets I found inside the control panel. Point taken about repairclinic returns, but as I said, I bought locally to save time. Can I bypass the relay to test it? I'm guessing not. I see your point about switching relays, but that still won't tell me if I'm getting heat, though it would be a natural conclusion.
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| Posted: Sat Oct 31st, 2009 04:33 am |
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4th Post |
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danix Grasshopper
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OK, swapped the two relays. Motor runs as normal, no heat. Pulled the lower panel again and rechecked the heating element. 9.9 ohms. One thing - with the system running, shouldn't I be able to measure voltage across the two ends of the element? I get nothing across the element or across the two leads that go into it (red/white, red).
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| Posted: Sat Oct 31st, 2009 04:41 am |
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5th Post |
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danix Grasshopper
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Couple more tests - confirmed: - continuity at thermal fuse (normal) - no continuity at thermister (normal) - no continuity at thermal cutoff. Is this normal? - continuity at high limit thermostat (normal) - continuity at heater element The only thing I haven't checked, looking at the diagram, is that there's a centrifugal switch in the motor that is also an input to the heating circuit? Not sure where to find this.
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| Posted: Sat Oct 31st, 2009 04:58 am |
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6th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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danix wrote: - no continuity at thermal cutoff. Is this normal? should have continuity, although it's a thermal fuse. If you tested it by heating it, you could have blown it. (could be by-passed during testing) Yes, you could by-pass the Heater Relay .. jumper: big Red Wire to big Red Wire
____________________ RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” (also in HQ) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA Upon leaving this Earth "Do you want the Smoking or Non-Smoking section ?" |
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| Posted: Mon Nov 2nd, 2009 01:09 am |
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7th Post |
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danix Grasshopper
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RegUS_PatOff wrote: danix wrote:- no continuity at thermal cutoff. Is this normal? Bingo. Yep, I blew it. So I think the final culprit was the "Even Heat" board. Wasted money on the thermister and blowing the thermal cutoff, but even so, learned a lot and save a ton on the repair costs. Many thanks for the replies!
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