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Kenmore Front Loading Washer not agitating  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Thu Oct 29th, 2009 10:40 pm
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Helene
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and I hear the hum of the motor (which sounds normal) but nothing happens. 

This episode started with an F 04 error code.  I cleaned out the trap (which had almost enough change to buy a six pack, as well as two screw driver bits....whoops) and the error code is gone.  But now nothing happens at all. The cycle starts and the timer counts down but no action of any kind.

Based on stuff I read here I thought it might be the coupler, but all the links, so to speak, that I can find on that here are on top loaders, including any instructions on how to open this baby up.

Can someone get me started?

ASAH
Helene

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 Posted: Thu Oct 29th, 2009 11:21 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Got just the post for you. Wanna see it? Awwite, darlin', here it be.

May be something simple like a broken belt, though I don't see this very often on this washer. Remove the front bottom quarter panel and have a look.



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 Posted: Thu Oct 29th, 2009 11:28 pm
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Helene
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Golly.  I don't know why this did not pop up in my search....maybe I biased the results by including the term 'coupler'.  Thanks, I will dig out the meter.
H.

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 Posted: Fri Oct 30th, 2009 07:07 pm
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Helene
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OK....I'm feeling pretty stupid but I cannot find a post that tells me how to access the place I need to get to do the testing you posted.  The directions I found were all for top loaders.  Can you direct me to the proper post?
Thanks,
Helene

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 Posted: Sat Oct 31st, 2009 09:21 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Stand before the beast, approximately four feet from the front panel. Now kneel, yes, kneel before it. Your obeisance doesn't stop there: now press your left cheek (the one on your face, not the other place) to the floor and behold the retaining screws on the bottom lip of the quarter panel. They're #2 square drive. Remove the screws, panel drops down and out and there you be!



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 Posted: Sat Oct 31st, 2009 11:44 am
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Helene
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lol....ok.....I don't have to admit this but I will in the spirit of obeisance.  The bottom quarter panel is already off because I cleaned out the drain trap.  I thought I had to get the front panel off. geez

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 Posted: Sat Oct 31st, 2009 12:49 pm
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Helene
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OK, I have been looking in the guts behind the bottom quarter panel and I see the motor and the pump.  I do not see a speed control board, I see the pump and motor.  I cleaned the drain trap, took out the pump and looked inside to make sure nothing was jammed in there (not that that would make the motor not run, but I figured if I was there I should make sure).  But I don't see a speed control board in order to use the flow chart you linked to.

In a related matter, I need a new touch pad.  The cycle is stuck at the 'normal' cycle as the contact on the cycle pad is trashed.  I entered the model number (417 44072300) in the 'search for parts' box and was not able to find it.


So the questions are:

1.How do I locate the speed control board?

2. How do I locate the touch pad in the parts locator?

3. Until I get and install the new touch pad, is it possible to run the diagnostic (assuming I can find the speed control board) if I can't set the cycle to 'heavy'?

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 Posted: Sat Oct 31st, 2009 01:53 pm
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Tumble Action Washers with Electronic Controls Service Manual

417.44072300 Parts Manual

page 2 & 3, Diagram #27  

134208200 Frame, control console, with membrane  $ 183

page 4 & 5, Diagram #4 
134149200 Controller Assy, speed, w/base & shield  $ 150



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 Posted: Sat Oct 31st, 2009 02:56 pm
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Helene
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Thanks so much.  I can see from the service manual that I need to remove the back panel, not the front one.  "hi ho hi ho, it's off to work I go"

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 Posted: Sat Oct 31st, 2009 03:01 pm
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Didn't know you already had the front panel off. You needed to remove it to get the tech sheet. Yes, the actual tests are done from the back.



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 Posted: Mon Nov 2nd, 2009 08:11 pm
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Helene
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Alrighty.  I am clearly way below Grasshopper-level when it comes to this stuff, including reading a multimeter.  But I did figure out that the resistance meter begins with its reading at infinity, because when the probes are not touching anything the resistance is infinite.

However, when I put the probes in any combination of the 1st 3 pins (with the multimeter set at x10) the needle goes to 6.  I find this is the SAME reading I get if I touch the two probes together.  Am I correct in assuming this is a short?  Is there any other way to get this result except a bad motor? (According to what I've read, that seems to be the only answer, but I also read that you have rarely run into bad motors, so I am trying to make sure this is indeed one of those rarities before I make the move of replacing the motor)

Thanks,
Helene

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 Posted: Mon Nov 2nd, 2009 08:19 pm
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I seems you have an analog OHM meter

You'd need a digital OHM meter to get a better reading.


if you have a Harbor Freight Store near you,
they have these meters, usually $ 4.99, w/battery

but prices went up ...

but sometimes on sale for $ 2.99
if on sale, print sale page and take to store


click on picture




click on picture


OR this one

click on picture



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 Posted: Mon Nov 2nd, 2009 08:21 pm
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Helene
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Additional question....sorry.

If it is the motor that is bad, is there some other part that, when it fails, will fry the motor?  I don't want to replace the motor, only to have the new one fry because something else is bad. (I had a computer that fried its motherboard 3 times before the techs figured out the fan wasn't working so the computer was getting really hot on the inside and it was LITERALLY frying the motherboard.  Duh)

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 Posted: Mon Nov 2nd, 2009 08:43 pm
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Helene wrote: ... If it is the motor that is bad, is there some other part that, when it fails, will fry the motor? 

Is the Motor bad ?

The Motor Controller won't usually take out the Motor,

but a bad Motor could take out the Motor Controller.

 

 



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 Posted: Mon Nov 2nd, 2009 08:54 pm
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Helene
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Well, that was the first question!  Is there any other explanation for these readings other than a bad motor?

The analog meter reads between 6 and 8 in all three combination of pins 1,2 and 3, no matter what scale I use (x10, x100, x1K).  I get the exact same readings when I 'short' the meter by touching the probes together. How accurate does it have to be to show a short?

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 Posted: Mon Nov 2nd, 2009 09:58 pm
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1) With an analog OHM meter, you must "zero" the meter using the adjustment wheel and with the probes shorted.

2) use the Rx1 range..

3) you may not see a shorted reading using an analog meter, since a good Motor should read 2.6 OHMS.

 

 



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 Posted: Tue Nov 3rd, 2009 03:00 pm
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Helene
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Ok, I got a digital meter, and that was a great recommendation.  I could easily read the the resistances were 2.6ish, so it was not the motor.

The voltage between pins 5 and 6 of the 6 pin connector was 120ish, so I tested the readings between pin 5 of the 6 pin connector and pins 2, 6, 9 and 10 of the 10 pin connector and they were all 1.1 to 1.6.  I didn't have as much confidence doing these because the probe did not fit snugly into the 10 pin connector, is that a problem or can I assume those readings are correct?  If they are correct, am I also correct that it seems the timer is the problem?

Thanks,
Helene

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 Posted: Tue Nov 3rd, 2009 03:05 pm
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You could maybe wrap a small piece of stiff wire around the meter probes (may need tape), and then use that as the probe.

 



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 Posted: Tue Nov 3rd, 2009 03:22 pm
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Helene
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Did that (metal paperclip!) and got the same readings.  Do these readings indicate a defective timer?

I was looking at the parts menu, didn't see a timer. Is it contained or part of the control console (which I've already ordered but will take 3 weeks to get here)????

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 Posted: Tue Nov 3rd, 2009 03:40 pm
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which diagnostic flow-chart are you using ?



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