Kenmore 417.42042100 front load washer - The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum - Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help - ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums

ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums Home

FAQs | Parts | Service | Store | Newsletter | Sitemap | Beer | Home

ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Kenmore 417.42042100 front load washer

Konnichiwa and Welcome!

Please register or watch this short screencast on how to get started here.

SEARCH THIS SITE
We have a bizillion pages of specific appliance repair questions and answers here just aching for the furtive caress of your engorged and tingling eyeballs. Use this search box to find ‘em.

FIND PARTS FAST
Search by part number or model number. You can also search by appliance type, brand, or even the type of part.

Moderated by: RegUS_PatOff, Pegi

Printer Friendly

Kenmore 417.42042100 front load washer

Author	Post

Posted: Sun Oct 25th, 2009 06:48 pm

srkolb
Apprentice Appliantologist

Joined:	Sat Oct 24th, 2009
Location:
Posts:	4
Flavorite Brew:	Ellie's Brown Ale
Status:	Offline

I have a 2002 Kenmore front load washer, Model #417.42042100. There are lots of posts about these washers that I’ve found very helpful. I just want to make sure I’m diagnosing things correctly because I’ve determined that the speed control board AND the motor are bad. In short, the washer fills with water but never spins.

I followed the instructions in the Tech Sheet:
1. Advanced the timer to the drain increment and the drain pump runs.
2. Removed motor drive belt and set the timer to the start of the Regular wash cycle and pulled the knob out. The motor did not run. I don’t know how to check for a poor connection in the timer line switch or door lock switch but the water pump runs. From other threads, that seems to indicate that the two switches are OK.
3. Removed the 6 pin plug and measured 120 Vac between pins 5 and 6 on the harness.
4. I set the timer to the Heavy wash position and measured (on the harness) 0 Vac between pin 1 and 5 and 120 Vac between pins 2-5, 6-5, and 10-5.
5. The fuse was good.
6. The next step is to measure the resistance between pins 1-2, 1-3, and 2-3 on the speed control unit. However, it’s not clear if the 10 pin harness should be plugged in and if the timer knob should still be on heavy wash with knob pulled out. So, I measured all combinations. With 10 pin harness plugged in, timer still on Heavy Wash with knob pulled out, I measure 150-170 kohms between the pins. With the timer knob off, I measure 12 Mohms, whether the 10 pin harness is plugged in or not. In no case do I measure the expected 3 Mohms so it says I should replace the speed control board.
7. I also checked the motor windings by unplugging the power cord and measuring between pins 1-2, 1-3, and 2-3 on the 6 pin harness (now I’m measuring on the harness side, not the speed control board). Between pin 1-2, I measured 2.7 ohms but I measured opens between pins 1-3 and 2-3. Does this imply my motor is also bad?

If both the speed control board and the motor are bad, then I'm looking at $300 in parts which hardly seems worth repairing. I have only a few simple repairs under my belt so I could easily have done something wrong here.

Posted: Sun Oct 25th, 2009 07:13 pm

RegUS_PatOff
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology

Joined:	Sat Sep 24th, 2005
Location:	Milwaukee, Wisconsin USA
Posts:	9067
Flavorite Brew:	Indian Head. Black & White
Status:	Offline

.

Attachment: Page from 5995369211.jpg (Downloaded 42 times)

____________________

RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” (also in HQ) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA

Upon leaving this Earth "Do you want the Smoking or Non-Smoking section ?"

Posted: Sun Oct 25th, 2009 07:33 pm

srkolb
Apprentice Appliantologist

Joined:	Sat Oct 24th, 2009
Location:
Posts:	4
Flavorite Brew:	Ellie's Brown Ale
Status:	Offline

Thank you! Your flow chart is truly worth a thousand words. It appears I have a defective motor.

Posted: Mon Oct 26th, 2009 01:00 pm

NCSU_laundry_tech
Sublime Master of Appliantology

Joined:	Mon Aug 18th, 2008
Location:	Raleigh, North Carolina USA
Posts:	823
Flavorite Brew:	The one in my hand
Status:	Offline

bad motors are rare compared to speed boards. make sure your meter reads close to 0 ohms when you touch the leads together

____________________
To alcohol! The cause of... and solution to... all of life's problems.

Doc Watson - Shady Grove: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b-kaG1NuLZM

riding my dirtbike in clayton NC: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NnCmY0vzmYM

Posted: Mon Oct 26th, 2009 01:21 pm

telefunkenu47
Master Appliantologist

Joined:	Sun Nov 12th, 2006
Location:	Sebago Lake, Maine, USA
Posts:	74
Flavorite Brew:	Tuckermans/Carrabasset
Status:	Offline

I agree, motors seldom fail. I have however seen the wire connections go bad between the molex connectors on the motor. Be sure to give them a good examination with the eyballs and VOM.

____________________
Even root canal is easy...if you're a dentist...

Posted: Tue Oct 27th, 2009 03:13 am

srkolb
Apprentice Appliantologist

Joined:	Sat Oct 24th, 2009
Location:
Posts:	4
Flavorite Brew:	Ellie's Brown Ale
Status:	Offline

I think my meter was working correctly. I measured 2.7 ohms between pins 1 and 2 but open between 1-3 and 2-3. I suppose it could be a bad connection in the harness. A new motor should arrive on Wed. so I'll know soon enough if I can find the time to work on it. Thank you for all your help.

Posted: Thu Oct 29th, 2009 02:49 am

srkolb
Apprentice Appliantologist

Joined:	Sat Oct 24th, 2009
Location:
Posts:	4
Flavorite Brew:	Ellie's Brown Ale
Status:	Offline

telefunkenu47,
You were right. The motor was just fine but the molex connector at the motor is bad. Two of the wires (pin 3 and pin 6) have pulled free of the connector. Unfortunately, I can't buy just that wire harness _ it's only sold as the full set of wires: $146 and on backorder. Now I have to learn how to repair a molex connector (if that's possible).

Posted: Thu Oct 29th, 2009 07:13 am

Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology

Joined:	Mon Mar 21st, 2005
Location:	Otterville, USA
Posts:	12950
Flavorite Brew:	Kirin Ichiban
Status:	Offline

srkolb wrote:
telefunkenu47,
You were right. The motor was just fine but the molex connector at the motor is bad. Two of the wires (pin 3 and pin 6) have pulled free of the connector. Unfortunately, I can't buy just that wire harness _ it's only sold as the full set of wires: $146 and on backorder. Now I have to learn how to repair a molex connector (if that's possible).

Nice shootin', Master Telefunken! :armed:

:armed:

When a molex connection is bad, it's usually a visual kind of a deal. Typically, one of those pins gets recessed just a bit and doesn't make good connection with the mating socket. Can look at the back and see which one is showing more metal than the others. If you can determine which pin connection is bad and you can't see the problem, you can always bypass it altogether by splicing in wire. Done correctly, the splice can be more reliable than the original molex connection.

____________________
Links: Parts | FAQs | Store | Beer | Home

Current time is 09:10 pm
ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Kenmore 417.42042100 front load washer	Top

FAQs | Parts | Service | Store | Newsletter | Sitemap | Beer | Home

Your Sometimes-Lucid Host:

ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums Home

"If I can't help you fix your appliance and make you 100% satisfied, I will come to your home and slice open my belly, spilling my steaming entrails onto your floor."

Appliance theme by Di @ Data 1 Systems
UltraBB 1.17 Copyright © 2007-2008 Data 1 Systems
Page processed in 0.4803 seconds (9% database + 91% PHP). 27 queries executed.