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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Sears (Frigidaire) 417.84052500 Dryer doesn't start at all |
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| Moderated by: RegUS_PatOff, Pegi, appl.tech.29501 |
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| Sears (Frigidaire) 417.84052500 Dryer doesn't start at all | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Sat Oct 24th, 2009 01:52 am |
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1st Post |
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jeffeb3 Merit Apprentice Appliantologist
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I'm hoping to find some good ideas here. Lurking here for a while, I noticed quite a few active experts (who hopefully appeal to their vanity). We just moved to a new house. I wouldn't say the dryer has worked even once for a complete cycle since we moved. There were no problems before that. The main symptom is that the dryer does nothing. The lights are on, the beep sounds consistent with the way it used to work. Nothing moves, and no heat happens. The drum moves smoothly. It seems to be inhibiting itself from starting. I've tried "resetting" it by unplugging it overnight. It will occasionally start again after that, but not long enough to dry a whole batch of clothes. I checked the power, 240 VAC. The vent is through the back, through a flexible vent (with two roughly 90 deg turns) and a 12" straight shot outside. The first time it happened, the part attached to the dryer was disconnected. I took the whole thing apart, and cleaned it. I found lots of lint in the section of tubing after the lint filter. Some filter. I also found a lot of lint that looked burned in the area behind the drum where the heating element is. I cleaned all of it out. On the occasions where it does start, and move, everything seems fine. I can push the door sensor button, and watch it spin. I don't see/hear any grinding. My guess is that there is some safety condition that hasn't been met, and the dryer is shutting itself down until it gets fixed. That would maybe point to the thermistor in the air exhaust or maybe the thermal control right? I read another post on this dryer that mentioned an error code. This dryer has no digit outputs, just LEDs. Is there a way to run a diagnostic on it to get the computer to tell me what's wrong? Is there a better way to reset the computer than unplugging it? I'm not even sure that works very well, since it sometimes won't start even after leaving it unplugged overnight. I hope this verbose post hasn't turned away readers. I could use the help. Thanks, Jeff
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| Posted: Sat Oct 24th, 2009 01:59 am |
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2nd Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology 
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Did you move this dryer with you or was it there with the house when you moved in? May be as simple as a sloppy connection at the dryer electrical outlet. See if you're getting power at the dryer's power strip in back when you wiggle the pigtail. Doesn't that sound like fun, wiggling the pigtail? 
____________________  If I've helped you with your repair, please consider supporting my flavorite charity: http://beer.fixitnow.com |
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| Posted: Sat Oct 24th, 2009 02:05 am |
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3rd Post |
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jeffeb3 Merit Apprentice Appliantologist
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man wrote:Did you move this dryer with you or was it there with the house when you moved in? it came with us.
I might do that again. It's pretty fun. I did check the voltage at the dryer (the screws). It's attached securely, and the power has reached the dryer.
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| Posted: Sat Oct 31st, 2009 08:29 pm |
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4th Post |
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jeffeb3 Merit Apprentice Appliantologist
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Well, I haven't found the problem yet. I managed to get another ~two minutes of drying out of it. A new one (the Frigidaire version:FEQ1442ES ) is $570 at Best Buy. How many parts would I need to replace to be sure that this is fixed? From looking at the breakout images: Sears Breakout Images 417.84052500 There is a "Thermostat" and "Thermal Light" in the "CABINET/DRUM" diagram, and a "Thermistor, Control" in the Motor diagram. These parts total ~$55 from Sears, maybe cheaper someplace else. The control panel is $105 from Sears. Would it make sense to replace all these parts? What do you appliantologists think? Should I just carpet bomb the problem? Is there a test I can do to narrow it down?
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| Posted: Sat Oct 31st, 2009 08:56 pm |
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5th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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417.84052500 Tech Sheets
____________________ RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” (also in HQ) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA Upon leaving this Earth "Do you want the Smoking or Non-Smoking section ?" |
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| Posted: Sun Nov 1st, 2009 03:41 am |
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6th Post |
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jeffeb3 Merit Apprentice Appliantologist
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This is great! I should be able to figure out a lot from this. I want to try it now, but I won't have time until tomorrow. I'll let you know how it goes (hopefully, I can figure out what's broken). Jeff
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| Posted: Sun Nov 1st, 2009 06:03 pm |
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7th Post |
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jeffeb3 Merit Apprentice Appliantologist
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That's a great technical spec. Just by having it, the dryer is scared into working fine. After an hour and 22 minutes (I'm an engineer, I like to quantify things), it's still working. That's more than the entire time it has worked since we moved.
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