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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Problem replacing GE DDG7189VTLAD w/ GE DVLR223GGWW |
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| Moderated by: RegUS_PatOff, Pegi |
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| Problem replacing GE DDG7189VTLAD w/ GE DVLR223GGWW | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Wed Oct 14th, 2009 01:27 am |
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1st Post |
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stevem01 Apprentice Appliantologist 
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Replacing old GE dryer, but delivery person said that I needed some kind of new exhaust vent adapter that I would need to purchase and install myself. He also noted that this new vent adapter would push the dryer further away from the wall by approx. 4 inches. This is unacceptable since the dryer and washer are in a bathroom that needs to be wheelchair accessible. If the dryer sticks out into the walking path by an additional 4 inches, then a wheelchair can not pass through. I told them to take the new dryer back to HomeDepot and that I would investigate the issue to see if I need to order a different dryer for my circumstances. Specs and pictures below... OLD DRYER: MFTR: GE Model: DDG7189VTLAD Type: Gas Depth : 25.5" Height : 43" Width : 27" ------------------------------ NEW DRYER: MFTR: GE - 5.8 Cu. Ft. Extra Large Capacity Gas Dryer Model: DVLR223GGWW Link: http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100589452 Type: Gas Depth : 25.5" Height : 42" Width : 27" Pictures of Existing Dryer Exhaust Vent (GE DDG7189VTLAD): Note: Pictures taken while unit was pulled away from wall. It's usually only a few inches away from the wall.    My questions: 1. The delivery person said this was an issue with the way new dryers are made... they need new exhaust vent adapters. What exactly is the nature of this new venting paradigm that is so radically different than the traditional venting method? 2. If I buy this vent adapter, is there any way to keep the dryer from being an additional 4 inches from the wall? 3. If this new venting method requires an extra 4 inches of depth, are there other dryers available that do not require an additional 4 inches of exhaust vent clearance? In other words, did I simply purchase the wrong dryer for my needs? If so, what should I look for in the specs of the dryer to avoid this additional 4 inches of exhaust vent adapter depth when choosing another dryer? Any other insights or possible solutions are welcome. If you need any further information let me know. Thank you very much for your help. I appreciate it.
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| Posted: Wed Oct 14th, 2009 01:33 am |
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2nd Post |
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Pegi Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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I do not know what he is talking about, we gonna need to wait for someone to see this post that does looks like.....no clue what the Home Depot guy is referring to.
____________________ Moderator & Assistant Admin. for Servicetechhelp Associaton, Inc. http://www.servicetechhelp.com STH HELPDESK URL.... http://www.servicetechhelp.com/h2desk/ ___________________________________ For Gordon... http://serviceeveryday.com/ |
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| Posted: Wed Oct 14th, 2009 02:22 am |
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3rd Post |
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stevem01 Apprentice Appliantologist
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Pegi wrote:I do not know what he is talking about, we gonna need to wait for someone to see this post that does looks like.....no clue what the Home Depot guy is referring to. Ok, thanks. Somehow I had a feeling this was gonna be a weird issue. I had no idea what he was talking about either... I will contact do some more research while I'm waiting to see if I can get some more info in this. The delivery person wasn't all that clear as English wasn't his primary language. I could infer, though, that there was some part (some plastic part that attached to the external wall exhaust port) which would push the dryer about 4 inches out further away from the wall. He also said this exhaust adapter was something I would need to purchase and install myself before the dryer could be installed. I had included the new exhaust vent tubing in my order and other required installation accessories, but apparently there is some kind of "new adapter" that goes on the external exhaust for newer dryers (or this dryer in particular? he wasn't clear on that.) Anyway, I will post here as I find more info. Thanks.
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| Posted: Wed Oct 14th, 2009 02:57 am |
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4th Post |
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stevem01 Apprentice Appliantologist
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I found this, which looks sort of like what the delivery person was talking about: http://www.ashireporter.org/articles/articles.aspx?id=161
But he said there was some part that I needed to buy to connect to the wall exhaust port... which is weird, because I checked my order and I had added a $20 "Semi Rigid Dryer Duct" in the order. Maybe I shouldn't have ordered that? Maybe this "Semi Rigid Dryer Duct" replaced the standard dryer duct, which would have been normally installed. I will contact HomeDepot and ask them.
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| Posted: Wed Oct 14th, 2009 03:42 am |
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5th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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you'd need (2) "standard" 4" 90° Elbows and a length of 4" rigid Dryer Vent Pipe see page 11 of this GE DVLR223 Use & Care Guide and this GE Dryer Installation Instructions also: Dryer Vent Vent should be rigid metal. Short lengths of flexible metal may be OK, if not crimped when moving the Dryer into place. NO plastic NO PVC NO screws Foil Duct Tape is OK. With an empty load, Timed Dry, High Heat, the vent temperature should cycle somewhere between 135F and 160F
____________________ RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” (also in HQ) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA Upon leaving this Earth "Do you want the Smoking or Non-Smoking section ?" |
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| Posted: Wed Oct 14th, 2009 04:43 am |
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6th Post |
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stevem01 Apprentice Appliantologist
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Thanks. I read the "GE DVLR223 Use & Care Guide" where it says:Use only rigid metal 4″ diameter ductwork inside and I have a couple questions to clarify: 1. By "flexible metal" do they mean the type of duct material that I already have (seen in the pictures I posted). It's that silver non-flammable material over metal wire that coils/spirals down the length of the duct. 2. Are the 4" elbow connectors necessary if I simply use the 'flexible metal 4″ diameter ductwork' that I'm already using? Because if that's the case and I don't need the 4" elbow connectors, then that would solve the problem (as the flexible metal ductwork that I'm currently using would not push the unit out any further than is now). I'm just trying to determine whether I need to order a different dryer (to avoid the unit being pushed out from the wall by an additional 4") or if I can just use the dryer I ordered and simply use my current duct work. Update: I just found the part of the manual where it shows a big X on the typical venting style (the flexible duct work on my dryer that I have pictured above). So is this something that is recommended with ALL new dryers? (the rigid elbows that require more space behind the dryer? Or is it just this particular dryer?)
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| Posted: Wed Oct 14th, 2009 04:56 am |
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7th Post |
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kdog Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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all dryers,especially gas
____________________ two wrongs don't make a right,but three lefts do. |
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| Posted: Wed Oct 14th, 2009 07:26 am |
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8th Post |
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stevem01 Apprentice Appliantologist
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kdog wrote:all dryers,especially gas Ok, thanks. Will something like this work? Tite Fit Dryer Ducting, 90 Degree 21" to 42" It looks like it should solve the extra 4" depth problem and be safer than my current ducting.
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| Posted: Wed Oct 14th, 2009 07:38 am |
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9th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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that should work.. if it's long enough may be available locally by the way, what was wrong with your old Dryer ?
____________________ RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” (also in HQ) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA Upon leaving this Earth "Do you want the Smoking or Non-Smoking section ?" |
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| Posted: Wed Oct 14th, 2009 08:21 am |
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10th Post |
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stevem01 Apprentice Appliantologist
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RegUS_PatOff wrote:by the way, what was wrong with your old Dryer ? It was not drying anymore... sometimes it would be hot, most of the time it would run cold (no ignition of the gas burner I guess). I had replaced the drum belt about a month ago and cleaned out all of the lint and clogging that I could find, but it kept refusing to light or get warm during dry cycles. It's very hit-or-miss now whether it will get hot and dry clothes or not. That's why we were replacing it.
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| Posted: Wed Oct 14th, 2009 10:10 am |
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11th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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sounds like a classic intermittent Gas Valve Coils click on picture 
____________________ RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” (also in HQ) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA Upon leaving this Earth "Do you want the Smoking or Non-Smoking section ?" |
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| Posted: Wed Oct 14th, 2009 11:49 am |
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12th Post |
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Budget Appliance Repair Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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stevem01 wrote: kdog wrote: That would solve all your problems, and you shouldn't have any problems with height as long as the vent outlet at the top isn't higher then the 42" max that the unit extends. I believe what the installer was looking for you to have was an adapter, it goes on the dryer and then the vent duct kind of screws into this plastic adapter. The adapter has like a shovel head sticking out that would be at the bottom and would keep the duct from getting pinched off from pushing the dryer to close to the wall. These plastic adapters stick out about 5" - 6" so it routes the vent duct up and bends with a curve at the dryer exhaust instead of squishing the vent duct off when shoved against wall. All that explanation then I find a picture for you. It goes by part# HUP called a 4" duct hooker, (if you enter HUP as the part# on the RepairClinic parts look-up you will see both of the below listed parts). Here's the picture on RepairClinic: http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=783172 but shows as discontinued because the original manufacture no longer makes them and a new source is listed. Here's the link to order the same thing from RepairClinic: http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=181147 The Tite Fit duct that you found would be a better option.
____________________ William Burk (Willie) Willie's Budget Appliance Repair Eureka, CA 95501 |
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| Posted: Wed Oct 14th, 2009 03:05 pm |
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13th Post |
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Pegi Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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""sometimes it would be hot, most of the time it would run cold"" Could be coils OR a clogged dryer vent, this would shut off the burner....poor air flow from the dryer...need to check that air flow from the dryer to the outside..
____________________ Moderator & Assistant Admin. for Servicetechhelp Associaton, Inc. http://www.servicetechhelp.com STH HELPDESK URL.... http://www.servicetechhelp.com/h2desk/ ___________________________________ For Gordon... http://serviceeveryday.com/ |
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| Posted: Wed Oct 14th, 2009 10:37 pm |
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14th Post |
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denrayr Sublime Master of Appliantology 
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dont buy that tite fit thing, they leak pretty bad and you will have lint everywhere. your best bet is to do like regus suggested and pick up 2 90 degree elbows and get the semi rigid aluminum duct to go in between.
____________________ RedRock Appliance Service 435-773-7838 http://www.redrockrepair.com Serving St George and Southern Utah |
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| Posted: Thu Oct 15th, 2009 01:10 am |
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15th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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or some FOIL Duct Tape
____________________ RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” (also in HQ) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA Upon leaving this Earth "Do you want the Smoking or Non-Smoking section ?" |
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| Posted: Fri Oct 16th, 2009 12:58 am |
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16th Post |
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stevem01 Apprentice Appliantologist
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RegUS_PatOff wrote: sounds like a classic intermittent Gas Valve Coils I finally got an answer form HomeDepot, they are in the process of refunding the order to my credit card (it was an internet order and when I refused delivery they just refunded and cancelled the order), so I'm going to try and fix the problem myself and save $450. Judging from the posts, I should start with the Gas Valve Coils (quoted above). Couple questions, though... 1. Are those exactly the part that I needed for this GE dryer (model# DDG7189VTLAD)? Or were you just giving me an example so I could see what they look like? I will check online to see if I can track down the gas valve coils that are compatible with my dryer, but I wasn't sure if you had done that already. 2. Besides the gas valve coils, should I invest in any other basic electrical troubleshooting equipment like a multi-meter or other diagnostic tools before I start messing with it? If so, do you recommend any good ones or any base-line features to look for in a basic household multi-meter? By the way, thanks for everyone's help so far. I appreciate it.
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| Posted: Fri Oct 16th, 2009 01:20 am |
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17th Post |
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stevem01 Apprentice Appliantologist
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Ok, I looked up my dryer and got the diagram and part numbers. I outlined the two coils I'm looking at.. one is the "Main" coil and the other is a "dual coil". Do I need both or just one of them... and if so, which one? ( Diagram page... )
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| Posted: Fri Oct 16th, 2009 01:48 am |
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18th Post |
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nickfixit Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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Many manufacturers use the same gas valve, but each sticks on there own part numbers and prices. The set picture in previous posts will do the job.
____________________ " Giving numerical data to Sears management is like giving a monkey a machine gun. No one knows for certain what will happen, but you can be sure of two things... It will be real messy, and only the monkey will be unharmed" |
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| Posted: Fri Oct 16th, 2009 02:00 am |
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19th Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology 
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This may be a good application for the periscope vent:
____________________ Links: Parts | FAQs | Store | Beer | Home |
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| Posted: Fri Oct 16th, 2009 02:45 am |
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20th Post |
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stevem01 Apprentice Appliantologist
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Ok, I ordered the Gas valve solenoid coil kit. Will post again if I run into any problems replacing them. Thanks.
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