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GE Gas Dryer (converted for propane) Model#DBSR463EGZWW  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Sat Sep 19th, 2009 03:40 pm
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jmeyer1025
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Costa Rica, the land of 120V power (+/- 50% depending on what the government feels like sending out that day) and no methane....

I purchased this GE Gas dryer in new in Costa Rica at an import store roughly one year ago.  In Costa Rica they do not have methane gas, instead, they just have 'gas' which in reality is propane in 25lb cans.  I ordered a propane conversion kit in the states, had it mailed down here, converted it myself and have been drying clothes successfully for the last one year.  Until....

Three weeks ago the dryer started turning itself off in the middle of the cycle.  If you tried to restart the dryer immediately, it would no start (start nob turns, but nothing happens).  If you wait for 3-5 minutes, it would turn back on.  3 weeks ago, it would finish the cycle.  However, this week it will run for another 2 minutes and then turn itself off again.  After which you need to wait for 2-3 minutes to start it again.  This is not speedy way to dry clothes! 

Of course the first thing to check is the ventilation of the dryer.  I took of the hose that vents the dryer and made sure there was not significant blockage.  There was a few small pieces of lint which I cleaned, but certainly nothing to make a problem.  I also checked the main exhaust tube going into the dryer and it was spotless.  I also removed the front of the drier and cleaned thouroughly the shute down to the plastic fan (part of the main motor) which circulates the air.  After everything was cleaned, I tried the dryer but with the same result.  My guess now is that the dryer is probably sensing it is overheating, so it shuts off, and needs some time to cool down.  After a bit of time, it is good to go again. 

I took the front off (again) and also removed the main drum of the dryer.  My 'gut' tells me it is probably the cycling thermostat which is the L135-10F sensor, however, I know there are also two other sensors (the high end which is L210-30) and another termo.  However, is there anyway to know for sure if one of these is bad or good?  

When I was poking around the dryer I noticed that one of the wires in the wire bundle got too close to the air intake for the gas burner and got a bit crispy.  It is a brown wire that I can trace over to the switch interlock.  Is there anyway that could be causing the problem?  Do I need to repalce that wire that got burnt?    

I've taken some pictures to help with my descriptions - they can be found here.  If the hyperlink does not work, please find them here.(http://picasaweb.google.com/BadgerMeyer01/DropBox?authkey=Gv1sRgCMes5-uSn4_xxwE&feat=directlink)

Finally, I must admit that I am a weak Ninja.  I am an engineer by training, but a civil (not electrical).  So if you ask me to get an Ohm gauge to test the different components, I can probably do it but will need some simple guidance to know what I am looking for.  Ultimately, If I have to replace parts, I have to order everything by internet from the united states and have it sent here by mail where they will probably stop it at customs and charge me 100% tax.  So, hoping for an easy solution.  Thanks for your guidance master!

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 Posted: Sat Sep 19th, 2009 04:34 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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Does it run any longer with Vent disconnected ?

Also check if it has good air-flow out the back of the Dryer.

Then check the Vent temperature:



Dryer Vent

Vent should be rigid metal.

Short lengths of flexible metal may be OK, if not crimped when moving the Dryer into place.

NO plastic

NO PVC

NO screws

Foil Duct Tape is OK.

With an empty load, Timed Dry, High Heat, the vent temperature should cycle somewhere between 135F and 160F


click on picture $ 2.99





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 Posted: Sat Sep 19th, 2009 06:07 pm
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jmeyer1025
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Okay, took me a while to get the the drum and belt back installed (yes - I am a rookie).  It is running right now with an empty load on full heat, the first time it kicked on it ran up to 160 degrees then it cut off, cooled off to 120 degrees and turned on again.  From that point forward it did a perfect cycle between burning until 150 degrees, cutting off, and then turning back on again when it reached 120 degrees.  I have the hose detached like you recommended.  I'll see how long it runs and see if we can make it through a full cycle. 

I do have a flexible metal tubing for this dryer (its all that is available in costa rica to buy - they don't have the straight metal ones for purchase as I think most people don't have dryers here and, if they do, they are in a courtyard).  Ours is in our house and we have to vent it up 6.5 feet to a window going outside...

Will post again when I know the results of how long it ran.  If it runs once all they way through, I'll run it again to see if it works to double check.

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 Posted: Sat Sep 19th, 2009 06:18 pm
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jmeyer1025
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:(  Well, that was quick.  It ran for maybe 5 minutes (high heat, no laundry) and the dryer just stopped.  What do you think? 

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 Posted: Sat Sep 19th, 2009 08:16 pm
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Was the Vent still disconnected ?

What was the Vent temperature when it stopped ?

The Motor stopped also  ?

 



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 Posted: Sat Sep 19th, 2009 11:17 pm
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jmeyer1025
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Okay, it took all afternoon and more than one hour getting hot exhaust blown into my face (:shock:) but I have some data for you.  To answer your questions:

1. Was the vent still disconnected --> Yes

2. What was the temperature when it cut off --> I don't know because I wasn't monitoring it then                                                                                                        

3. Did the motor cut off?  --> Yes

So, now onto my data.  After you asked for the temperature when it cut off, I decide just to sit in front of it (without the venting house) and wait for it to turn itself off.  I also to be nothing if not precise and abundant with my data for you.  Below I have posted the different tests I did.  I recorded the times the gas came on and its temperature, and the times the gas shut off and the temperature.  The quick summary is:

Pre-Run (referenced in last post) - No hose, no clothes, full heat, shut off after about 8 minutes.  Heat unknown.

Run #1 - No exhuast hose, no clothes, full heat, did not shut off ever                    

Run #2 - No exhuast hose, no clothes, full heat, did not shut of ever                     

Run #3 - Exhuast hose, no clothes, full heat, Shut off at 2:51 trying to start gas at a heat of about 122 degrees.                                                                                      

Run #4 - Exhuast hose, no clothes, full heat did not shut off                                   

Run #5 - Exhuast hose, no clothes, full heat, shut off at 2:15 in the middle of a cool down cycle.  Did not appear to shut off when starting like run #3.  Heat 125 degrees.  I was not able to start the dryer again for 1 minutes and 30 seconds.  I tried every two seconds to see how long the delay really was.

That is the summary of my data.  I have attached some more pictures here so that you could see what the set-up looks like.  The inside of the exhuast tube looks good.  I'm really confused why it cuts out sometimes and not others.  Also, at colder temperatures.  Could it be because the propane does not ignite it shuts itself off?  THat would seem odd because there are times when our 25 lb tanks run out mid dry and it NEVER shuts itself off.  It just blows cold air. 

Any guidance you have would be awesome.

 

I have data like this for every run, but I'm only posting two of them in case it is not helpful to you.  If you want to see the other ones, let me know.  The temperature difference between run #1 and run #3 is because I was using the exhuast tube, so I was taking the temperature in the middle of the tube.

Run #1 (NO EXHAUST HOSE,NO CLOTHES, FULL HEAT)

Gas On   Temperature   Gas Off    Temperature (degrees)  

26 sec     80                   1m50s     160                                                             

3m18s     118                 4m0s       156                                            

5m18s     117                  5m55s    154                                                                  

7m03s     118                  7m35s     152                                                                       

8m44s     119                  9m14s     151                                                  

10m20s   119                  10m50s    150                                              

11m55s   118                  12m25s    150                                                

13m30s   120                  14m00s    150                                           

15m04s   118                  15m36s    150                                                               

16m38     118                  17m08s    150                                                           

18m17s   118                   18m45s    150                                                         

19m51s   118                   21m20s    149                                                              

21m25s   118                   21m55s    146                                          

23m03     117                   23m35s    150                                                                   

(AT THIS POINT I GAVE UP AND JUST LET IT RUN...AND IT DID NOT STOP)

 

Run #3 (With Hose, No clothes, full heat)

Gas On   Temperature   Gas Off    Temperature                                           

18s          117                 40s          142            

1m35s      122                153          143

2m51s      122       --> Cut off here


Last edited on Sat Sep 19th, 2009 11:19 pm by jmeyer1025

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 Posted: Sat Sep 19th, 2009 11:29 pm
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check your hose .. and the air-flow where it exits the house

how long is it ?



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 Posted: Sun Sep 20th, 2009 12:49 am
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jmeyer1025
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It is six feet long.  The air flow is really good (I think).  It was blowing strong without the hose and feels to be quite strong even with the hose that climbs the wall and exits the window.  However, I'm confused how that is relevant given that it has shut-off with and without that exhaust hose; however, I am sure there is a reason and I've just not fixed enough dryers to know.:?  Do you think I've slowly damaged something using a hose that long for a year?

What'd think?

Last edited on Sun Sep 20th, 2009 12:51 am by jmeyer1025

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 Posted: Sun Sep 20th, 2009 01:00 am
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jmeyer1025
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The one thing that did occur to me today is that I can't all the way to the exhaust fan in the front when looking 'down' the tube through the back becaue there is a 90 degree angle to the right.  Like I mentioned earlier, I cleaned everything from the lint trip all the way down to the fan very very well.  Also, I cleaned the small amount of lint that was in the flexible house out too.  But, there is still that little section between the 90 degree angle and the exhaust fan.  I'm not sure if it is common to build up there - however - it looked more involved to dismantle the front of the dryer so I didn't do that this morning.  If you think I should, I will tomorrow. 

Again though, it seems to have pretty decent air flow. 

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 Posted: Sun Sep 20th, 2009 01:05 am
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25 foot maximum length (- for each bend)

Maybe I missed it, but I didn't see a mention of it shutting off without the hose.

Is there a strong air-flow on the outside of the house ?



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 Posted: Sun Sep 20th, 2009 01:16 am
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jmeyer1025
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Yep, strong air flow.  I mean, all I did was cut a hole through a screen and stick it out the window.  In Costa Rica houses are not 'plumbed' with exhaust vents like this.  In my case, its really this six foot pipe straight outside.  Did you see the pictures in the links I posted?  That might help you understand better what I mean.

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 Posted: Sun Sep 20th, 2009 01:25 am
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Could be the drive motor cutting out on thermal overload



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 Posted: Sun Sep 20th, 2009 01:29 am
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jmeyer1025
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Is there a way to check?  What would cause thermal overload?  I know that appliance (everything electronic) has a shorter life down here because of a) the humidity but more important b) masive swings in electricity.  Who knows if that is adding to it, but I'm willing to test various parts.  My Voltometer(sp?) is all ready to go!

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 Posted: Sun Sep 20th, 2009 01:39 am
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Does the motor turn hard when you turn it by hand?



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 Posted: Sun Sep 20th, 2009 02:42 pm
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jmeyer1025
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Nope, when we had the drum out of the main box yesterday, it turned very easy.  Even with the drum installed I can turn it just by moving the drum. 

We were drying a blanked this morning, started it on 'more dry' and it ran almost the entire cycle until it made it to the 'cool down' and then shut off.  Thats probably 30+ minutes it ran before it shut off.  So strange. 

There are not any dryness sensors (acu-dry or whatever it is called) in there that could be malfuntioning and causing it to shut down, is there? 

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 Posted: Sun Sep 20th, 2009 07:34 pm
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With the Dryer Belt removed from the Motor, turn the Shaft of the Motor to see if it turns easily, smoothly ...

Check the temperature of the Motor when it shuts OFF.

Is it too hot to touch ?

It may be a combination of running and the Dryer heat ...

 



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