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Element Clicking off on Maytag Dryer PYE2300AYW, Series 10  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Fri Sep 18th, 2009 04:43 pm
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DwightR
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Just completed a blower wheel and belt replacement, but heating element now only comes on for about 2-5 secs, then clicks and shuts off. Overheating? Did a lot of cleaning up with shop vac and was very careful to avoid bumping element. Also work to blow out all the dust from the element area. Air discharge from vent is strong--doesn't seem to be any blockages. Been without dryer for 5 days while reading your site and ordering parts. Pile of laundry is screaming to get clean.... Thanks!

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 Posted: Fri Sep 18th, 2009 04:59 pm
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Dryer Vent

Vent should be rigid metal.

Short lengths of flexible metal may be OK, if not crimped when moving the Dryer into place.

NO plastic

NO PVC

NO screws

Foil Duct Tape is OK.

With an empty load, Timed Dry, High Heat,
the vent temperature should cycle somewhere between 135F and 160F

 

PYE2300AYW Wiring Diagram


what "shuts off" ?   the Heater or the Motor ?

Last edited on Fri Sep 18th, 2009 05:08 pm by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Fri Sep 18th, 2009 05:08 pm
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DwightR
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Dryer vent not the problem this time. Brain vent wasn't properly connected. Had been testing without front cover in place, which meant no path for "pull" from blower. Element WAS overheating. Sorry to leave out that key piece of info and bother you. Thanks for the assist.

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 Posted: Fri Sep 18th, 2009 06:22 pm
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DwightR
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Bigger problem just occurred. Previously, Element was what was shutting off. That problem went away when I put the front panel back in place. I put in a load of damp clothes and started the dryer. All appeared to work well. They had been tumbling for about 3 mins, then I opened the door. Heard a "click" at the back, like a thermostat, and the dryer shut off, but I attributed that to me opening the door. Now the dryer will not start. Dead. Used to be a better handyman than I'm being right now....

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 Posted: Fri Sep 18th, 2009 07:03 pm
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Check the thermal fuse at the heater element can..right side below the hi-limit thermostat...little round disc......this one shuts off the motor.... IF this unit has the heater in the upper left, rear...............

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 Posted: Fri Sep 18th, 2009 07:15 pm
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DwightR
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Disc is there, but can't get a wire off of one of either of the contacts to isolate it from the ckt before testing continuity. Space too tight and spade clip too tight. When I tested with both wires connected, it showed continuity. My guess is that info isn't helpful....

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 Posted: Fri Sep 18th, 2009 07:19 pm
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Tried again. Got the wire off. Now disc tests as open. Drives two questions. #1: What caused the problem (that is, what did I do wrong in the previous repair that resulted in this) and how to fix that? #2: How to replace the fuse?

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 Posted: Fri Sep 18th, 2009 08:14 pm
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RegUS_PatOff wrote: ... With an empty load, Timed Dry, High Heat,
the vent temperature should cycle somewhere between 135F and 160F ...

no need to disconnect to measure continuity if using a digital OHM Meter on the 200 OHM scale ...

A good Fuse would read less than 1 OHM (nothing else in the Circuit would give that reading ...)

if you have a Harbor Freight Store near you,

they have these meters, normally $ 4.99, w/battery

but sometimes on sale for $ 2.99
if on sale, print sale page and take to store

 

click on picture



click on picture


OR this one

click on picture



click on picture $ 2.99



20% OFF COUPON till 9/21



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 Posted: Fri Sep 18th, 2009 08:35 pm
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DwightR
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Have analog multimeter. With one wire off, fuse reads 0 ohms on any scale.

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 Posted: Fri Sep 18th, 2009 09:40 pm
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DwightR wrote: Have analog multimeter. With one wire off, fuse reads 0 ohms on any scale.
then the Fuse is OK...

this small one with the pink dot ?


Last edited on Fri Sep 18th, 2009 09:45 pm by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Fri Sep 18th, 2009 09:47 pm
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DwightR
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No activity whatsoever when plugged in, door shut, and start button pushed. Voltage at wall is fine. Element and motor were running for maybe about 5 mins with damp clothes in the barrel. Element had stayed on after I had replaced the front panel and buttoned everything up. When I opened the door, I heard the click, but the interior didn't seem real hot, in fact seemed a little luke warm, but I chalked that up to the short run time. Then when I shut the door and pushed the start button, nothing happened.

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 Posted: Fri Sep 18th, 2009 09:50 pm
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DwightR
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Yes, pink dot. But doesn't the fuse open when tripped? If I'm seeing no continuity across it, doesn't that mean it is bad? Sorry, I'm exhausted and stressed over this and other stuff.

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 Posted: Fri Sep 18th, 2009 10:13 pm
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DwightR wrote: ...Voltage at wall is fine.... .... Element had stayed on after I had replaced the front panel and buttoned everything up. ....

240v AC across the outer (2) terminals

AND

120v AC between the center Terminal and each outer Terminal

The Heater Element stayed ON when the Motor wasn't running ?



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 Posted: Fri Sep 18th, 2009 10:18 pm
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DwightR
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Voltage measures as should: 240 across legs, 120 between each leg and ground.

When motor stopped running, element stopped heating, too.

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 Posted: Fri Sep 18th, 2009 10:28 pm
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Does the Timer run ?

If yes, then check the voltage across Thermal Fuse while running...



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 Posted: Fri Sep 18th, 2009 10:29 pm
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Timer does not run. The machine acts as if it is unplugged. Dead.

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 Posted: Fri Sep 18th, 2009 10:45 pm
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Timer should run without depending on Start Switch, Door Switch, or Thermal Fuse ...

only needs L1 & Neutral ...



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 Posted: Fri Sep 18th, 2009 10:50 pm
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Got it. Dial was set over in the auto-dry setting. When moved to timed setting the timer runs.

Fuse still shows 0 ohms.

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 Posted: Fri Sep 18th, 2009 10:53 pm
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""If I'm seeing no continuity across it, doesn't that mean it is bad?""

Yes...as a test only by-pass that fuse and see if the  the dryer runs, if so have to get the fuse kit.....if dryer is still dead with fuse by-passed try resetting both breakers to the dryer for grins....



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 Posted: Fri Sep 18th, 2009 10:55 pm
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DwightR wrote: Have analog multimeter. With one wire off, fuse reads 0 ohms on any scale.
DwightR wrote: ... Fuse still shows 0 ohms.
0 OHMS = good Fuse

(unless you're reading your meter wrong)



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