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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Dud Dryer: 110.66662501 |
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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Dud Dryer: 110.66662501 |
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| Moderated by: RegUS_PatOff, Pegi, appl.tech.29501 |
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| Dud Dryer: 110.66662501 | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Tue Sep 8th, 2009 02:44 am |
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1st Post |
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Teresad Apprentice Appliantologist, First Class
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Purchased a Kenmore (aka Whirlpool) washer dryer set second hand for $150 total. Washer works fantastic. Model # for the dryer is 110.66662501 Like a dumb-ass, I didn't bother to ask the seller to test-run the dryer before I paid for it. So I get it in my apartment only to discover that it runs, but doesn't heat. I checked the heating element. Continuous 0 ohms, but it did look pretty charred. And the high-temp thermostat had opened. So I ordered replacements for the heating element and high-temp Therm and replaced them. The dryer worked for 10 minutes, then the new high temp thermostat opened and the heat shut down again. I checked the control thermostat and thermal fuse....both normal (even did the skillet test at 180 degrees F for the thermostat). Took a look a the console, got continuous reading on everything except the buzzer (*shrugs*), though I'll admit the timer contraption was so confusing I'm not sure if I read right. Didn't take a look at the motor because for the life of me I couldn't disconnect a wire hookup that would have allowed me to remove the front panel and drum. Yes, I have 250 volts coming from the necessary outlet. Any idea what could be wrong with this dryer?
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| Posted: Tue Sep 8th, 2009 03:18 am |
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2nd Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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Does it have good air-flow out the Vent ? May be a bad Cycling Thermostat 110.66662501 Wiring Diagram Thermal Fuse (white fuse, on Blower Housing) Thermal Cut-Off (fuse)...............} Hi-Limit Thermostat (auto-reset) } sold as a kit (if the Cut-Off fuse is blown, the Hi-Limit didn't do it's job) Cycling Thermostat Dryer Vent Vent should be rigid metal. Short lengths of flexible metal may be OK, if not crimped when moving the Dryer into place. NO plastic NO PVC NO screws Foil Duct Tape is OK. With an empty load, Timed Dry, High Heat, the vent temperature should cycle somewhere between 135F and 160F 110.66662501 Parts List & Diagrams
____________________ RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” (also in HQ) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA Upon leaving this Earth "Do you want the Smoking or Non-Smoking section ?" |
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| Posted: Tue Sep 8th, 2009 03:37 am |
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3rd Post |
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Teresad Apprentice Appliantologist, First Class
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The vent is a foil flexible vent, though I have the dryer directly against the wall and there's no bending or crimping between the vent and the wall connection. I have also made sure to keep the outside vent hole free of critters and debris (though there could still be something blocking it deep inside I suppose). Can't really test the heat temperature of the vent until I get a new high-temp therm which would allow me to run the dryer (albeit for only 10 minutes). But I hate the idea of blowing another thermostat. Also, I cleaned out the collected dust and lint. I'm really stumped on this.
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| Posted: Tue Sep 8th, 2009 03:43 am |
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4th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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The flexible vent is a fire hazard (in case one of your thermostats goes bad) You could temporarily jumper-out the bad thermostat for testing purposes, but it may cause one of the other Thermo-fuses to blow ... Which one did you replace ? If you have a Harbor Freight Store near you, click on picture $ 2.99 
____________________ RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” (also in HQ) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA Upon leaving this Earth "Do you want the Smoking or Non-Smoking section ?" |
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| Posted: Tue Sep 8th, 2009 03:48 am |
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5th Post |
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Teresad Apprentice Appliantologist, First Class
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I realized I'm using wrong words here....I replaced the tripped cut-off fuse (which came with a new Hi-Limit Thermostat). I installed the new Hi-Limit as well, but then after 10 minutes the heat shut down. The thermal fuse on the blower housing reads 0 ohms...continuous. Where is the cycling thermostat located? EDIT: Oh wait, I see. I was calling it by something different. Yeah that reads 0 ohms and I did the thing where I even put it on a 180 degree hot skillet. The circuit opened nicely. I'll make sure to purchase that Thermometer Last edited on Tue Sep 8th, 2009 03:54 am by Teresad |
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| Posted: Tue Sep 8th, 2009 03:55 am |
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6th Post |
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Teresad Apprentice Appliantologist, First Class
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Not very skilled with "jumpering" and the idea of losing more parts in the process makes me nervous.
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| Posted: Tue Sep 8th, 2009 04:02 am |
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7th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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I forgot to mention that the Heater could have a partial short to ground.. that would keep the Heat ON without the Motor (and Blower) running ... Check it out .... ooohhh... was replaced ... Check it anyhow .... "open" OHM measurement to ground also make sure there is NO Heat in the "no - heat fluff" Cycle .. and NO Heat when the Door is open (Motor is not running)
____________________ RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” (also in HQ) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA Upon leaving this Earth "Do you want the Smoking or Non-Smoking section ?" |
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| Posted: Wed Sep 9th, 2009 01:05 am |
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8th Post |
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Teresad Apprentice Appliantologist, First Class
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I checked the heating element again. Continuous circuit. I'll have to wait till I replace the high-limit (again) before I can see if there is no heat in the fluff cycle or when the motor is off. Since of course right now with the cut-off open it won't heat at all. I'll have that done in a few days and will check then.
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| Posted: Wed Sep 9th, 2009 02:17 am |
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9th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Here's a test... set Dial to the Auto Regular Cycle (not Timed Cycle) Don't start the Dryer.... Does the Timer Motor run ? (may take a while to notice) (Timer Motor shouldn't run)
____________________ RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” (also in HQ) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA Upon leaving this Earth "Do you want the Smoking or Non-Smoking section ?" |
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| Posted: Sun Sep 20th, 2009 02:50 pm |
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10th Post |
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Teresad Apprentice Appliantologist, First Class
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Sorry it took a while to get back. The timer doesn't run when on Auto regular. I do have a question about the power cord: When I test the power cord, I got 0.99 Ohms continuous circuit between the top (rounded) prong and the bottom prong. However any circuits between either of the flat side prongs and any of the other three is an open circuit. Is it supposed to be like that? I was wondering if the power cord might be fried.
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| Posted: Sun Sep 20th, 2009 07:21 pm |
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11th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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measure each pin of the power cord to the wires on the oposite end ...
____________________ RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” (also in HQ) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA Upon leaving this Earth "Do you want the Smoking or Non-Smoking section ?" |
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| Posted: Sun Oct 11th, 2009 08:51 pm |
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12th Post |
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Teresad Apprentice Appliantologist, First Class
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Okay I finally got around to doing this. There are four sets of wires coming from the power cord; insulated in Red, Black, Beige, and Green. With the power plug facing me, pins are Left, Right, Top and Bottom (Left and Right are vertical, Top is round, Bottom is L-shaped). What I discovered... Red: Continuous with Left only, open circuit with others Black: Continuous with Right only, open circuit with others Beige and Green: Continuous with Top and Bottom, open circuit with Left and Right. So what does this say about the power cord? Thanks.
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| Posted: Sun Oct 11th, 2009 10:13 pm |
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13th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Power Cord seems OK ..
____________________ RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” (also in HQ) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA Upon leaving this Earth "Do you want the Smoking or Non-Smoking section ?" |
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| Posted: Sun Oct 11th, 2009 10:15 pm |
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14th Post |
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Teresad Apprentice Appliantologist, First Class
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Man...that means I still have no clue why the dryer overheats.
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| Posted: Sun Oct 11th, 2009 10:40 pm |
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15th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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check the Vent temperature with the Vent disconnected ...
____________________ RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” (also in HQ) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA Upon leaving this Earth "Do you want the Smoking or Non-Smoking section ?" |
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| Posted: Sun Oct 11th, 2009 10:55 pm |
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16th Post |
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Teresad Apprentice Appliantologist, First Class
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I'm calling it a night. I'll work on it some more in a couple weeks when I get a new high-limit. Thanks for the advice. If the next round doesn't reveal anything I'm going to quit stressing myself over it. My complex has dryers that charge $2.00 a load. I only have one load most weeks. That might just be the more $$-savvy option right now.
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| ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Dud Dryer: 110.66662501 | Top |
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