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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Maytag Topload Washer Model LA612 Noises |
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| Moderated by: RegUS_PatOff, Pegi, appl.tech.29501 |
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| Maytag Topload Washer Model LA612 Noises | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Mon Sep 7th, 2009 07:47 pm |
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1st Post |
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wescat Merit Apprentice Appliantologist
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Maytag Topload Washing Machine Model LA612; Series 04; Serial# 064879 TR This machine has developed a tic-tic-tic type noise when it is in the wash or spin cycles. When spinning the noise sounds similar to a load imbalance, but when I check the load I do not find an imbalance. I assume this noise is in the drive mechanism, but I am very unfamiliar with this appliance. A diagnosis and link to an exploded diagram to ID the offending member would be most helpful.
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| Posted: Mon Sep 7th, 2009 08:09 pm |
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2nd Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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LA612 c 1986 ? (2) different Transmissions ... Parts List & Diagrams
____________________ RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” (also in HQ) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA Upon leaving this Earth "Do you want the Smoking or Non-Smoking section ?" |
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| Posted: Mon Sep 7th, 2009 09:20 pm |
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3rd Post |
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wescat Merit Apprentice Appliantologist
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RegUS_PatOFF, the manufacture date is Nov/87. I found a discussion on youtube that said: "the problem is the inner tub. you need a spanner wrench to fix it. when the inner tub spins its not centered. and spins off balance. trust me i WAS the maytag man until whirlpool bought maytag and sold us to A&E (sears) factory service. good luck!!! 68Elko (2 years ago) I am a Maytag repairman and the problem is as madmaytagman1 says it is but more specifically your problem is a bad bearing, to fix it i would say you would need to replace the following: outer tub, Inner tub, Bearing, possibly at this point you may need a new milk stool kit and snubber ring as well, if you dont fix it soon you will then need a tranny as well. to put it bluntly it will most probably be cheaper to buy a new unit." How accurate are these posts? I have a failed bearing between the inner/outer tubs that supports the inner tubs rotational motion? A failed bearing always ruins the fits, requiring tub replacement? What are the milk stool and snubber ring? They always fail? Thanks... Last edited on Mon Sep 7th, 2009 09:23 pm by wescat |
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| Posted: Mon Sep 7th, 2009 09:33 pm |
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4th Post |
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denrayr Sublime Master of Appliantology 
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how do the belts look?
____________________ RedRock Appliance Service 435-773-7838 http://www.redrockrepair.com Serving St George and Southern Utah |
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| Posted: Tue Sep 8th, 2009 10:30 am |
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5th Post |
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Budget Appliance Repair Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Also, check for anything in the pump that shouldn't be there. You can lean the machine back and remove the two belts, then reinstall just the pump belt and put the machine into spin and see if you here the same noise, if you do then you know for sure it's something in the pump.
____________________ William Burk (Willie) Willie's Budget Appliance Repair Eureka, CA 95501 |
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| Posted: Sat Sep 12th, 2009 07:29 pm |
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6th Post |
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wescat Merit Apprentice Appliantologist
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OK, I got off my lazy a$$ and removed the front panel and did a little troubleshooting. The belt that drives the tub and agitator is chunked on the ID. I could see a bearing at the bottom of the outer tub, it does not appear to be failed - the shield is in place. I cut off the loose belt flaps and ran the machine. As best I can tell, the noise while washing (agitating) is the chunked belt. When the tub spun up, the tub/milk stool assembly did oscillate quite a bit. I checked the springs and mounting bolts/eyebolts, everything is tight. Perhaps the poor quality belt is not driving the tub to an angular velocity above it's critical speed?? I am going to replace the belts and see how it runs. I did not find any leaks. I have 4 questions: 1) How much should the tub oscillate when at full speed? 2) What RPM should full speed be? 3) When should you tune the tub oscillations via the eyebolts/spring tension? 4) I spun the pump when I had the belt off, it felt "notchy", like I was fighting rubber stiction. Is this normal? Thank you! Kevin Last edited on Sat Sep 12th, 2009 07:31 pm by wescat |
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| Posted: Sun Sep 20th, 2009 04:55 pm |
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7th Post |
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wescat Merit Apprentice Appliantologist
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Update: I installed new belts and the noise is now gone, but a new symptom appeared on the first wash cycle: while trying to get the tub up to spinning speed, my motor stopped running. It appeared to have overloaded the motor, opening a thermal limit switch. I did some troubleshooting, my guess is that the new belt is transmitting power too efficiently (I read somewhere that a certain amount of slip is as per design on some washers). So I unloaded the belt by holding the motor in the loose position, and spun up the tub. The second wash did not present with the new symptom, perhaps the new tub drive belt is a bit too short, and it will run in. I have a few questions; 1) My previous questions went unanswered. How do I “flag” my entry in the forum to request moderator input? 2) Do these machines shift while spinning up? This one seems to, the high load on the motor happens when this shift seems to occur, in the middle of getting the tub up to spinning speed. 3) What dampens the oscillations while spinning? Thanks, Kevin
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| Posted: Sun Oct 4th, 2009 03:05 pm |
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8th Post |
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wescat Merit Apprentice Appliantologist
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I would really appreciate any responses to the questions in my previous 2 posts.
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| Posted: Sun Oct 4th, 2009 04:39 pm |
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9th Post |
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certified tech group 51 Sublime Master of Appliantology 
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Was the belt replacement part number 12112425?? 2 belt kit?? The pump should rotate freely with no dragging, could be just lint/fuzz stuck around the impeller, if not leaking or heavy resistance, I would not worry about it...... The movement of the tub/transmission will vary from unit to unit ....the concrete counter-balance ( under the top/splash ring ) is what keeps the unit balanced. there is also counter weight on the transmission that is used to keep everything centered....Tightening the centering springs will not stop the oscillations, they only keep the tub centered on a vertical axis.....you can loosen or tighten a spring and the other spring(s) will move the oscillations off-center.....You have a two speed motor and as far as I know the two speeds are for a slow agitate / fast spin.... Belt slip is used from start to full R.P.M. New belt has to much 'grab' to it......I do not know the full R.P.M. of this unit, but maybe a tech with more Maytag knowledge will fill you in or correct my missive........'I may not always be right but I'm never wrong'
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| Posted: Sun Oct 4th, 2009 04:39 pm |
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10th Post |
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kdog Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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Your machine should top out at about 750 rpm when in a full spin, the ramping is achieved by a "clutching" action by the motor slides, slipping belt and a bushing in the transmission. As the tub gets spinning, the motor ramp will tighten up until there is no longer any slippage (full speed) - as for the suspension springs, I was always taught to never adjust them; when spinning, there will be some vibration transferred between the tub and the base, for this reason there is a teflon dapmer ring installed between them. The amount of movement and vibration will depend on the load in the tub and the distribution of the load - this movement is normal operation. The ramp which the motor is mounted should provide free movement of the motor, the 4 teflon rollers in the ramp can sometimes become contaminated by dirt/dust, spilled detergent etc. and cause stiffness in the sliding action. The pump should offer free movement, and should NOT be adjusted tight on it's belt,the belt which drives the pump should be loose enough that the middle of the belt can touch together when squeezed, otherwise it offers too much resistance to the spinning action. The tub centre bearing sleeve (mounting stem) can also offer resistance to spinning - it is usually obvious if you shine a flashlight up to the bottom of the tub centre and check for signs og water and other guk escaping around the bearing/seal assembly. Hope this gives you a few idea's on what to check
____________________ Can Ye spare some 'cutter me brutha ? http://web.me.com/zenzoidman/kdog/ |
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| Posted: Sun Oct 4th, 2009 05:26 pm |
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11th Post |
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denrayr Sublime Master of Appliantology
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Did you install an oem belt? inspect the motor pulley and make sure its shiny. when the old belt wore out it most likely contaminated the surface of the pulley making it too grippy. whenever I replace a belt on one of these i tilt the washer against the wall, remove the belts, set the washer to spin, and polish the pulley by wrapping the old belt with some sanding cloth and holding it in the pulley groove.
____________________ RedRock Appliance Service 435-773-7838 http://www.redrockrepair.com Serving St George and Southern Utah |
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| Posted: Sun Oct 4th, 2009 10:45 pm |
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12th Post |
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wescat Merit Apprentice Appliantologist
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What is the purpose of the "injector" valve in the fill hose from the water inlet valve to the tub? Mine is messed up, do I need to replace it, or eliminate it? Last edited on Sun Oct 4th, 2009 10:54 pm by wescat |
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| Posted: Sun Oct 4th, 2009 10:54 pm |
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13th Post |
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Pegi Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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Should be a vacuum break to prevent wash water from getting back into the city water supply, it needs to be replaced to keep the washer within factory specs...
____________________ Moderator & Assistant Admin. for Servicetechhelp Associaton, Inc. http://www.servicetechhelp.com STH HELPDESK URL.... http://www.servicetechhelp.com/h2desk/ ___________________________________ For Gordon... http://serviceeveryday.com/ |
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| Posted: Sun Oct 18th, 2009 01:58 pm |
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14th Post |
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wescat Merit Apprentice Appliantologist
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RegUS_PatOff, denrayr, Budget Appliance Repair, certified tech group 51, kdog, Pegi, a big thank you to one and all for your help and information. My washer is now back to normal. Last edited on Sun Oct 18th, 2009 01:58 pm by wescat |
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| ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Maytag Topload Washer Model LA612 Noises | Top |
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