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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Maytag Neptune MAH4000AWW - Water Won't Stop Filling In Any Cycle |
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| Maytag Neptune MAH4000AWW - Water Won't Stop Filling In Any Cycle | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Wed Jul 22nd, 2009 03:57 am |
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1st Post |
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jsavage9 Grasshopper
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Samurai-san - my wife found that our Maytag Neptune Washer would turn off a few seconds after she pressed the Start button. I was not around, so I had no chance to run the diagnostics on it. Waifu then held said Start button down until the washer stayed on. It did stay on, but so did the water. So sad because your humble apprentice replaced Motor and Motor Control Board 1 1/2 years ago and I learned a lot including that I like this washer! I also learned enough to know that the first problem above was probably cheap, but the second is probably costly since Waifu forced 120v of steady current through the Machine Control board. In your opinion, what do you think the most probable cause of the first problem was? I'll probably have to replace the Machine Control board, but then I may find out that I have the same Start button problem. Or do you think replacing the Machine Control board fixes both problems? Thank you for your sageness Samurai-san! Last edited on Wed Jul 22nd, 2009 03:58 am by jsavage9 |
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| Posted: Sun Jul 26th, 2009 05:01 am |
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2nd Post |
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jsavage9 Grasshopper
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With no response from the Samurai after so many days, I'm going to just buy a refurbished, replacement part 22002989 and see what happens when I put it in. I will post an update afterwards so other grasshoppers with the same problem may learn from my experiences. Hopefully Waifu won't run out of patience.
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| Posted: Sun Jul 26th, 2009 05:09 am |
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3rd Post |
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kdog Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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jsavage9 wrote:
So what is happening with the machine while the water is filling, can you hear the drum tumbling? You might try disconnecting the small black air hose from the w/l switch in the console, and try blowing through it (towards the tub) - should be clear, could be a deposit of guckus at the other end Last edited on Sun Jul 26th, 2009 05:15 am by kdog ____________________ Can Ye spare some 'cutter me brutha ? http://web.me.com/zenzoidman/kdog/ |
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| Posted: Wed Jul 29th, 2009 07:12 pm |
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4th Post |
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jsavage9 Grasshopper
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I replaced the Machine Control board (and wax motor to be safe) as I did find a burn on the backside of the board. The burn wasn't on the R11. Anyway, this solved the original problems (turn off after 5 seconds and water valve remaining open at every stage of the wash cycle), but now machine doesn't kick into high spin during the spin cycle. Before I replaced the burned Machine Control board, it did spin as expected. Any ideas? Thanks!
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| Posted: Wed Jul 29th, 2009 10:47 pm |
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5th Post |
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jsavage9 Grasshopper
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In reading through many older posts on the lack of high-gear spinning, it looks as though I should replace a one more part. I'm going to purchase and install the switch that controls the door lock and enables the spin (Part # 22002162). I'll let everyone know if this works or not - js
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| Posted: Thu Jul 30th, 2009 02:17 am |
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6th Post |
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Crouching Tiger Sublime Master of Appliantology
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Sometimes after eplacing the was motor the spin enable switch or related components don't make contact. You should be able to test the door lock assembly for proper operation in a normal cycle with the panels removed. Other wise check the switch itself.
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| Posted: Thu Jul 30th, 2009 03:16 am |
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7th Post |
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denrayr Sublime Master of Appliantology 
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to elaborate on crouching's post, check the z shaped spring to make sure you didnt bend it when you replaced the wax motor
____________________ RedRock Appliance Service 435-773-7838 http://www.redrockrepair.com Serving St George and Southern Utah |
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| Posted: Thu Jul 30th, 2009 04:34 pm |
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8th Post |
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jsavage9 Grasshopper
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I replaced the switch as well as ensuring the z-shaped metal "spring" on the backside of the wax motor wasn't too bent or compressed. I then reassembled everything and ran the washer through it's paces and the high-gear spinning engaged nicely. Interestingly, the high-gear spin takes a bit longer to get to top speed and it doesn't make the jet engine noise I've always had since purchasing the machine. I'm guessing it's the new machine control board... I also noticed that a knocking sound is now prevalent during agitation/tumbling in the wash cycle. I guess that moving the machine around must have gotten something out of whack. I found the tension bolt repair kit mentioned, so I'll probably try that in the near future. It's a special order part which will take up to three weeks to get. Overall, I consider the job pretty much fixed for my original problems! Thanks to those who provided input. I also want to say to those who may follow this string and haven't posted their own question yet - use the "Search for Wisdom". I found, after posting my question, that everything I went through has already been discussed in various posts and many posts even walk you through step-by-step! I'm no genius and not that handy, so if I can do it, you can too! Lastly, this site also convinced me to invest the time to keep my old machine running because it looks like washers have gotten worse, not better. Thanks Again! - js
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| Posted: Thu Jul 30th, 2009 10:15 pm |
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9th Post |
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kdog Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Those were great machines!! I had a set where I used to live, but when the new owner of the house made me the offer on the house, he specified "with appliances" - since I accepted the offer, I had to let them go and I sure miss them now. The noise you speak of might be caused by the little plastic grommets that the motor mounts to the tub with, when they become worn, they allow the motor to shift slightly when tumbling back and forth - very cheap to replace
____________________ Can Ye spare some 'cutter me brutha ? http://web.me.com/zenzoidman/kdog/ |
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