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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Kenmore Front Load Dryer Model # 110.850.81400 |
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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Kenmore Front Load Dryer Model # 110.850.81400 |
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| Moderated by: RegUS_PatOff, Pegi |
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| Kenmore Front Load Dryer Model # 110.850.81400 | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Fri Jun 26th, 2009 06:32 pm |
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1st Post |
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Tarheel Technician Master Appliantologist
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Got a front load kenmore dryer model # 110.850.81400 that works fine sometimes.....then it'll just die.....no lights...no nothing. Can unplug it and plug it back up...and it still does nothing......check it a few minutes later and it might work fine for a while. From the tech sheet in the dryer, I did the continuity test from the L1 on the pigtail to the control board and everything checks out fine. Tested all the buttons on the touchpad according to the chart on the tech sheet and they all tested good. Plugged it up and checked to see if there was 110 volts getting to the control board, and it was. I came to the conclusion that the control board was bad.....replaced control board. Put the new one in......dryer worked fine for a few minutes.....then it did the same thing again. Checked all the connections with same result. Board is still getting 110 volts to it. And I checked the continuity of the ribbon connection while it was plugged up and it's communicating with the touchpad. Everything points to another bad control board, so I've checked and rechecked everything I can think of.........and have come to the conclusion that I received a bad control board. Wanted a 2nd opinion before ordering another board. Thanks so much for any help.
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| Posted: Fri Jun 26th, 2009 09:55 pm |
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2nd Post |
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Tarheel Technician Master Appliantologist
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Another note......when checking the keypad/ribbon connectors.....the chart on the tech sheet says the positive and negative leads on the meter must be correct. However, with my analog meter, when i put the positive and negative leads across the two points as indicated by the tech sheet, the meter does not respond.....if i reverse them, and put the negative lead where it says put the positve, it seems to work just fine. Using my digital meter, it seemed to work correctly with the positive and negative leads where they are supposed to be. Not sure if this information helps any at all, but hopefully so.
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| Posted: Fri Jun 26th, 2009 10:10 pm |
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3rd Post |
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NCSU_laundry_tech Sublime Master of Appliantology 
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not sure if i should help someone with tarheel in their handle but here goes. when these dryer do not respond at all the solution is to replace the user interface not the main board most often. which one did you replace.
____________________ To alcohol! The cause of... and solution to... all of life's problems. Doc Watson - Shady Grove: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b-kaG1NuLZM riding my dirtbike in clayton NC: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NnCmY0vzmYM |
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| Posted: Fri Jun 26th, 2009 11:32 pm |
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4th Post |
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Tarheel Technician Master Appliantologist
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I replaced the main control board, not the user interface. Sorry about the name, but go heels! lol.
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| Posted: Mon Jun 29th, 2009 05:54 pm |
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5th Post |
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Tarheel Technician Master Appliantologist
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Is there any other way of checking the user interface? I guess by the process of elimination, the user interface is probably bad, but I'm getting a reading on every button with my meter. However, as stated in a previous post, with my analog meter it only works when I have the positive and negative leads reversed. Not sure what that means, but seems odd.
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| Posted: Mon Jun 29th, 2009 08:04 pm |
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6th Post |
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Tarheel Technician Master Appliantologist
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After some research, looks like with an analog meter, the leads are supposed to be reversed. I did not know that. So........... that puts me with this situation: Control board is receiving 110 volts........and all the buttons on the user interface are checking good with my meter. However, the unit does nothing...no lights.....nothing. As I stated in an earlier post....I have already tried a new control board and it still doesn't work..........so I assume (and u know what they say about assume) it needs a user interface. Just hesitant to order that when it seems to be ok when doing the test on the ribbon connectors. But by looking at the wiring diagram, I don't see anything else that it could be! Sometimes I hate electronics! Of course, on some occasions when the error codes point you right to the problem, I love them!
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| Posted: Mon Jun 29th, 2009 08:20 pm |
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7th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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Is there 120v AC from: P1-5 to P1-2 P1-5 to P1-3
____________________ RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” (also in HQ) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA Upon leaving this Earth "Do you want the Smoking or Non-Smoking section ?" |
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| Posted: Mon Jun 29th, 2009 09:56 pm |
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8th Post |
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Tarheel Technician Master Appliantologist
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I don't have the wiring diagram with me right now....so I don't remember which one was P1-5, etc.......... but I remember that it was getting 120 VAC from the black to white............and 120 VAC from the black to green. If the P1-5 is the black and the P1-2 and P1-3 are white and green, then that would be a yes.
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| Posted: Mon Jun 29th, 2009 09:59 pm |
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9th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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110.85081400 Tech Sheets
____________________ RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” (also in HQ) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA Upon leaving this Earth "Do you want the Smoking or Non-Smoking section ?" |
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| Posted: Tue Jun 30th, 2009 01:43 pm |
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10th Post |
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Tarheel Technician Master Appliantologist
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It is getting 120 VAC from P1-5 to P1-2.............and from P1-5 to P1-1........... don't think I checked from P1-5 to P1-3..........just remember that the light did go off and on when the door was shut and opened.
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| Posted: Tue Jun 30th, 2009 02:08 pm |
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11th Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology 
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Got burned by one of these the other day. Same exact symptom. Replaced the control board. Same deal. Tried disconnecting/reconnecting all wires and ribbo connectors. Same-o, same-o, GI. Replaced the touchpanel assembly (considerably more money!) and that fixed it. What really sucks about this one is that they don't list the the voltages for the touchpanel on the schematic. So you're guessing. I hate guessing. It's an expensive way to do bidness.
____________________ Links: Parts | FAQs | Store | Beer | Home |
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| Posted: Tue Jun 30th, 2009 02:26 pm |
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12th Post |
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Tarheel Technician Master Appliantologist
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Amen to that! On calls like these, you just hope to break even! I think the original complaint on this dryer was that the control lock light stayed on and the dryer wouldn't do anything. Customer tried holding the control lock button for 3 seconds but the light wouldn't go off. Customer then unplugged it and it actually started working for a few minutes....then went dead again, except no control lock light.
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| Posted: Wed Jul 1st, 2009 01:36 am |
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13th Post |
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jambatt Scholar of Advanced Appliantological Studies 
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Just a thought, but have had similar problem when installers didn't get the power cord connected to the terminal block properly ie. Loose connection because they stripped the nut on the stud. Like I said , just a thought.
____________________ Don't take life too seriously, none of us get out alive ! |
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| Posted: Wed Jul 1st, 2009 03:37 am |
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14th Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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Good thinking! I did consider an open neutral. But the drum light comes on, so the circuit carries a load.
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