|
FAQs | Parts | Service | Store | Newsletter | Sitemap | Beer | Home |
ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > 110.96595520 Kenmore electric dryer |
|
FAQs | Parts | Service | Store | Newsletter | Sitemap | Beer | Home |
ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > 110.96595520 Kenmore electric dryer |
Konnichiwa and Welcome!Please register or watch this short screencast on how to get started here.
|
| Moderated by: RegUS_PatOff, Pegi |
|
Page: 1 2   |
|
||||||||||||
| 110.96595520 Kenmore electric dryer | Rate Topic |
| Author | Post |
|---|
| Posted: Fri Jun 26th, 2009 02:46 am |
|
1st Post |
|
marvinmartian Chief Apprentice Appliantologist
|
OK, this is one of those dryers with the electronic control pad on top -- everything's a touch control and it looks like you could land a UFO with it. Electric, front load, lint screen at bottom of door. Here's what it did and what it still does: Select any setting and time and hit START button. When you hit the start button, there is an audible click. Everything lights up like it's working. The timer counts down properly. The 'drying' indicator lights, so it even thinks it's doing its job. Alas, there is no tumble. I popped the kick board and found that the belt was intact and properly threaded (the belt iis 2 months old -- replaced at same time as drum wheels). The motor, however, was not turning. Here's what I've checked and replaced thus far: I have checked the voltage at the wall: 240V. I have checked the voltage at the dryer block: 240V. I have checked the power cord and its connections: good. I have checked the door switch (yes, I removed it first): good. I have checked the thermal fuse, post-removal: good. I have NOT checked the thermistor next to it (have no clue how I'd get it to 196 degrees). I have checked the relays next to the control board: good. I have inspected the control board for burned-out components or scorching/burning: negative. I have replaced the motor and verified that I did not screw up on the wiring (the replacement is not an exact dupe of the original): does not fire up. I removed the broken belt switch and tested it: good. I bypassed the broken belt switch and tried to get the new motor to turn: does not turn. I purchased a replacement idler wheel but did not replace it -- the tension looks fine and the original is not wobbly. Tonite, I decided to work backwards a bit. I checked the voltage across pins 2 & 6 on the power harness for the motor, and I measured 89 V. So I figure I know why the old and new motors aren't turning -- not enough juice. Can anyone give me some clue what to check next? I'm stumped and my girlfriend is NOT pleased that I'm not anxious to replace this dryer. It's sort of like an old friend that hasn't ever given me any trouble I couldn't fix....until now. Thanks!
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: Fri Jun 26th, 2009 02:59 am |
|
2nd Post |
|
NCSU_laundry_tech Sublime Master of Appliantology 
|
at the main board there is a way to ohm the whole motor circuit. should get 1 to 6 ohms. if you do then you need a new board. if not then you got to find the restriction of the electron flow
____________________ To alcohol! The cause of... and solution to... all of life's problems. Doc Watson - Shady Grove: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b-kaG1NuLZM riding my dirtbike in clayton NC: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NnCmY0vzmYM |
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: Fri Jun 26th, 2009 03:10 am |
|
3rd Post |
|
RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
|
marvinmartian wrote: ... I decided to work backwards a bit. I checked the voltage across pins 2 & 6 on the power harness for the motor, and I measured 89 V. So I figure I know why the old and new motors aren't turning -- not enough juice... that's not backwards... that's where you should have started ... I can't find a wiring diagram for that model.. unless you could scan & upload your ... 200k MAX
____________________ RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” (also in HQ) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA Upon leaving this Earth "Do you want the Smoking or Non-Smoking section ?" |
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: Sun Jun 28th, 2009 10:58 pm |
|
4th Post |
|
marvinmartian Chief Apprentice Appliantologist
|
Here's the schematic from inside the kick panel. Sorry for the delay; work's been crazy. There's another image of the edge connector schematic. I'll post that separately to avoid the size restriction. And you're right, this is where I should have started! Thanks for your help. Attachment: DryerSchematic_480.jpg (Downloaded 39 times)
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: Sun Jun 28th, 2009 10:59 pm |
|
5th Post |
|
marvinmartian Chief Apprentice Appliantologist
|
Here's the edge connector schematic. Attachment: DryerEdgeConnectorSchematic_480.jpg (Downloaded 39 times)
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: Sun Jun 28th, 2009 11:19 pm |
|
6th Post |
|
RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
|
marvinmartian wrote: ... I checked the voltage across pins 2 & 6 on the power harness for the motor, and I measured 89 V...Was that voltage measurement with the Motor connected ? (all voltage measurements should be with the device connected, unless otherwise specified) It should have ran or hummed .. You could try swaping the (2) Relays You measured the 240v supply... did you also check for the 120v ? (Neutral) Last edited on Sun Jun 28th, 2009 11:21 pm by RegUS_PatOff ____________________ RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” (also in HQ) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA Upon leaving this Earth "Do you want the Smoking or Non-Smoking section ?" |
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: Sun Jun 28th, 2009 11:24 pm |
|
7th Post |
|
marvinmartian Chief Apprentice Appliantologist
|
No, I pulled the harness and just checked the voltage at those pins - motor was not connected. Didn't realize it would matter - I'll go connect the motor and measure again and let you know something in about 2 minutes. Also, the other reply I got suggested that there was a way to check the entire motor circuit's resistance somehow. Any chance you (or anyone else) could dumb that down enough for me to know where to put the meter leads? As for the relays, I didn't swap them out because mine don't appear to be identical. Thanks!
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: Sun Jun 28th, 2009 11:30 pm |
|
8th Post |
|
RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
|
marvinmartian wrote: I'll go connect the motor and measure again and let you know something in about 2 minutes...0v ? Relays should be the same (remember the wiring order)
____________________ RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” (also in HQ) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA Upon leaving this Earth "Do you want the Smoking or Non-Smoking section ?" |
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: Sun Jun 28th, 2009 11:58 pm |
|
9th Post |
|
marvinmartian Chief Apprentice Appliantologist
|
I bow to you, Master.... The voltage across 2 & 6 is 89V "at rest" - when the dryer is plugged in but no options have been chosen. After I made a selection and hit Start, there was an audible click, and the voltage flowed across 2 & 6 at a steady 247V. I tried this same test with the replacement motor connected, and then with just the harness -- same result each time. When the motor was connected, it still did not turn. Does the idler need to be engaged in order for the motor to turn? This one has a broken belt switch at the back of the motor, and I wasn't putting any pressure on the idler (the drum and belt are out of the unit) when I was testing. Thanks.
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: Mon Jun 29th, 2009 12:03 am |
|
10th Post |
|
marvinmartian Chief Apprentice Appliantologist
|
No hum and no spin from the motor with tension on the idler, either. I'll go check those relays next and see if they're the same. If they aren't, I'll get a pic for you.
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: Mon Jun 29th, 2009 12:13 am |
|
11th Post |
|
RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
|
Where are you measuring this voltage ?... should be at the Motor
____________________ RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” (also in HQ) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA Upon leaving this Earth "Do you want the Smoking or Non-Smoking section ?" |
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: Mon Jun 29th, 2009 12:20 am |
|
12th Post |
|
marvinmartian Chief Apprentice Appliantologist
|
Yes, measured at the motor.
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: Mon Jun 29th, 2009 12:28 am |
|
13th Post |
|
marvinmartian Chief Apprentice Appliantologist
|
Relays are not the same. Motor relay label is as follows: OMRON G4W - 11123T - US - 6010 12VDC CONTACT: 15A 250VAC 1/2HP - 125VAC 15A 24VDC 1 HP - 250VAC COIL: 12VDC 0824Y2 What is the proper method to test this relay (since I don't appear to have another one like it I can swap it out with -- the other relay is much larger and made by a different manufacturer)?
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: Mon Jun 29th, 2009 12:31 am |
|
14th Post |
|
RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
|
RegUS_PatOff wrote: ... You measured the 240v supply... did you also check for the 120v ? (Neutral) Motor should have 0v at rest, and never more than 120v running ..
____________________ RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” (also in HQ) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA Upon leaving this Earth "Do you want the Smoking or Non-Smoking section ?" |
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: Mon Jun 29th, 2009 12:50 am |
|
15th Post |
|
marvinmartian Chief Apprentice Appliantologist
|
Sorry, I don't understand your last post. There's power to the motor. There are separate pins for 110 vs 240 on the motor. This one uses 2 & 6, which get 240V. If there's not supposed to be any voltage across 2 & 6 at rest, what can cause that to happen? And please dumb it down for me, because I don't see any reason why there wouldn't be some continuous voltage through the unit -- the interior light comes on when the door opens. Uses voltage. There's a fluorescent lamp under the console panel -- that would require voltage, too. Sorry if I sound dense, but I don't follow the logic that the resting voltage would be 0. The only way for me to check the voltage with the motor as part of the circuit is to attach the power harness and get my meter leads into the openings for pins 2 & 6 on the harness while it's on the motor. That's all I can do, as the harness completely obscures the pins on the motor. Maybe that's why I'm not getting the result you're expecting. I'm open to suggestions for a workaround. I checked on PartsDirect to look at the exploded view of the console. The parts listing says there are indeed two 12V relays (#696819). I can only find one of them. It was located near one end, adjacent to what I thought was the power relay (that's why I thought they were different). Can you give me some clue where to find the 2nd 12V relay? It's not clear from the exploded view, either. I can post that exploded view if you'd like. Thanks.
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: Mon Jun 29th, 2009 02:20 am |
|
16th Post |
|
marvinmartian Chief Apprentice Appliantologist
|
I've attached a pic of the only two relays I can find in my dryer. Obviously, they're different. Is there a second relay somewhere in my dryer that is identical to the smaller Omron pictured here. If there is, I can't find it. And the schematic I posted earlier isn't clear to me in regard to the Motor Relay vs the Heat Relay. If there IS a second relay, should it be visible from the back of the unit? If so, I don't see it. I've tried following the CH and CH2 wires off of the control board -- they go to the same relay as CM and CM2. Color me confused. Could someone please clear this up for me and keep the explanation as simple as possible? RegUS_PatOff, can you please give me the steps to perform the 110 test at the motor you mentioned previously? Thanks. Attachment: DryerRelays_640.jpg (Downloaded 29 times)
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: Mon Jun 29th, 2009 02:35 am |
|
17th Post |
|
RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
|
marvinmartian wrote: ...The voltage across 2 & 6 is 89V "at rest" - when the dryer is plugged in but no options have been chosen. According to the schematic, and as with almost all U.S. Dryers, the Motor only uses 120v ... L1 and Neutral L2 does not connect to the Motor The Drum Lamp is also 120v If there is 89v there at rest, it would run or hummm. If there was 240v there, it would burn-out shortly...
____________________ RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” (also in HQ) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA Upon leaving this Earth "Do you want the Smoking or Non-Smoking section ?" |
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: Mon Jun 29th, 2009 03:11 am |
|
18th Post |
|
marvinmartian Chief Apprentice Appliantologist
|
This leads me to what will probably sound like a really stupid question. If the motor only runs at 120V, why is my dryer powered by 240V? What's the point to devoting a separate 240 line to it? If the motor can't use 240, why are there two leads devoted to carrying it thru the wiring harness? In audio, we have "step-down" transformers. Isn't that what the motor should be doing with the incoming 240V? OK, that's more than one stupid question, but I'm feeling like a very slow learner right about now. Thanks again.
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: Mon Jun 29th, 2009 03:20 am |
|
19th Post |
|
RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
|
as shown in the Wiring Diagram, the Heater uses 240v, but everything else uses 120v (one of the power lines and Neutral)
____________________ RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” (also in HQ) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA Upon leaving this Earth "Do you want the Smoking or Non-Smoking section ?" |
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: Mon Jun 29th, 2009 05:00 am |
|
20th Post |
|
marvinmartian Chief Apprentice Appliantologist
|
All of my manuals (and the tech sheets that were inside the console) are in storage, where I may never again find them. Can you tell me how to put this dryer into diagnostic mode? Thanks.
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Current time is 08:08 pm | Page: 1 2 |
| ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > 110.96595520 Kenmore electric dryer | Top |
FAQs | Parts | Service | Store | Newsletter | Sitemap | Beer | Home
