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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > 110.96595520 Kenmore electric dryer |
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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > 110.96595520 Kenmore electric dryer |
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| Moderated by: RegUS_PatOff, Pegi |
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| 110.96595520 Kenmore electric dryer | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Mon Jun 29th, 2009 05:09 am |
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21st Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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I can't find any documentation for that model...
____________________ RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” (also in HQ) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA Upon leaving this Earth "Do you want the Smoking or Non-Smoking section ?" |
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| Posted: Mon Jun 29th, 2009 11:41 am |
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22nd Post |
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Budget Appliance Repair Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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marvinmartian wrote: This leads me to what will probably sound like a really stupid question. Ok, some training for ya!!!! You only need 120 volts to power the control board, run the motor and power the drum lamp and console light tube. This dryer has an electric heating element and it takes the 240 volts to power the heating element. Now to your testing and why your getting 247 volts at pins 2 and 6 is because you are testing at the wrong pins, (pins 1 and 2 on the motor is the centrifugal switch which closes when the motor is running so the heater doesn't come on unless the motor is actually running). The 89 volts you are getting when it's not running is junk voltage reading from line2 to the open contact at pin 6. Don't worry about pins 1 and 2. You should be doing your test at pin 4(Line1) and pin 5(Neutral to motor), pin 4 may not actually be in the motor connector plug, it will be the blue wire coming off the belt switch going directly to the thermal overload protector on the motor. To test and make sure the motor is ok you can attach it directly to a test cord, (an old appliance cord with alligator clips or spade connectors), attach one end to pin 4 or the overload protector and the other to pin 5 and plug the cord in to a wall socket. If the motor is ok it will start and run. You say you checked the door switch, are you sure you checked it correctly?? There are two circuits in the door switch, one circuit is neutral to the motor or when door is open, neutral to drum lamp. The other circuit is the low voltage door switch that the board uses to sense that the door is closed. Any chance you have D2 & D3 to the door switch reversed so that when the door is closed the light comes on instead of going out? Does the drum light come on when you open the door? You say you checked the thermal fuse? Did you check the white plastic one on the blower next to the thermistor or the one on the heater next to the hi-limit safety t-stat? If you have the door switch wiring correct, and have double checked that the thermal fuse is ok and the motor works ok on a test cord, there is a good chance the motor control relay is bad or the control board itself. With everything put back together and with the control board counting down the time but motor not running you will need to see if you have 12 volts DC to the relay coil on the motor relay. If 12 VDC is present at the relay coil then you have a bad motor relay, if no 12 VDC is present then most likely a bad control board.
____________________ William Burk (Willie) Willie's Budget Appliance Repair Eureka, CA 95501 |
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| Posted: Tue Jun 30th, 2009 03:04 am |
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23rd Post |
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marvinmartian Chief Apprentice Appliantologist
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Willie, I can't thank you enough for the explanation and the clear instructions. I'll tear into the dryer again tomorrow afternoon and try to post what I find in the evening. As for how I tested the door switch, I did a simple continuity check with the switch removed from the dryer, and that's all. I'll follow your directions to re-test it. I'll also check to make sure I haven't reversed the wires. Not sure my drum light is going to serve as much of indicator -- it has only worked when it felt like it for about the past 10 years. Again, THANK YOU. I'll post back.
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| Posted: Tue Jun 30th, 2009 03:32 am |
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24th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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one more thing... Test devices while they're still connected, don't remove items to test (unless specified) The Door Switch may be good when it's not mounted in the Dryer, but if the Door Latch Mechanism isn't actuating the Switch, the Dryer won't work. You'd have to test the Door Switch while it's still mounted in the machine ... Motor only uses 120v... I was looking at the Motor Wiring on the Diagram I usualy test by Wire Color (not numbers) There is a Switch on the Motor that controls the Heater, so that it only operates while the Drum Motor is turning... but I wasn't concerend with that part of the circuit, and those wires don't connect to the Motor Winding, nor would they prevent the Motor from running.
____________________ RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” (also in HQ) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA Upon leaving this Earth "Do you want the Smoking or Non-Smoking section ?" |
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| Posted: Thu Jul 2nd, 2009 12:51 pm |
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25th Post |
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telefunkenu47 Master Appliantologist
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how about jumping out the motor relay? Thats where i would start. My money is on the relay. Just a thought...
____________________ Even root canal is easy...if you're a dentist... |
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| Posted: Sat Jul 11th, 2009 12:42 am |
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26th Post |
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marvinmartian Chief Apprentice Appliantologist
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Hi again, Willie. Sorry about the delay. I got very, very sick and wasn't able to do anything for about 2 weeks. The girlfriend has resumed the glares now that I'm well again. All's right with the world. To answer your question about the possibility of the wires being crossed on pins 2 & 3 of the door switch, I checked, and they appear to match the wiring diagram. My interior light does come on when the door is open (most of the time, anyway) and I verified that it goes out with the door shut. With the dryer plugged in and counting down but no motor spinning, I checked the voltage across pins 2 & 3. There's 120V across them when the light is on (door open) and 0V across them when the light is off (door closed). I tried the AC cord trick on pins 4 & 5 of the old motor -- nothing. I'm about to try the same thing on the new motor -- just need to rip everything apart again in order to get to it. I checked for 12V across the motor relay coil with the dryer powered up and counting down but no It tested fine, but I ordered in a new one, anyway. Next I'll check to make sure I can get the new motor to spin from the AC cord. If that works as expected, I'll check the voltage hitting the motor from the harness and make sure there's 120 flowing thru it. I'll post back later this evening when I have the other results. Thanks for your patience and your advice!
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| Posted: Sat Jul 11th, 2009 02:34 am |
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27th Post |
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marvinmartian Chief Apprentice Appliantologist
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Hi again, Willie. I have some results, but they're strange enough that I'm thinking I may have done something wrong with my testing again. First, the good news (sort of). The new motor spun just fine with voltage applied to pins 4 & 5. Then I realized what you had been trying to tell me about the blue wire coming around from the broken belt switch and I changed the position of one of the wires from the AC cord, and voila!....the old motor spun up, too. So the motor wasn't the problem (I can hear all you seasoned repair guys snickering). So I guess the problem has been identified: regardless of which motor I have in the dryer, it's not getting enough juice to spin. So I came up with the following to test it, and I need to know if the test I ran is actually telling me anything useful. I reconnected all the dryer wiring, but I didn't put the drum back in the dryer. I plugged my meter leads into #4 and #5 on the wiring harness. The harness was NOT connected to the motor -- I just wanted to see what kind of voltage I was getting across 4 & 5 when the dryer was supposedly running. I held the door switch in with my finger. The voltage was 45.6V across 4 & 5 with the door switch open. The voltage varied between 39V & 42V across 4 & 5 with the door switch closed and the dryer on with the timer running. Is this test sufficient to prove that there isn't proper power getting to the motor thru the harness? If so, what are the chances it's the harness that's bad? I went ahead and replaced the motor relay. Made no difference. If the test I described isn't logically sound, please advise how best to check the voltage hitting the motor thru 4 & 5. I don't have the physical space to reassemble the drum and still have room to maneuver. And I can't figure out a way to get the meter leads to stay put if I connect the harness to the motor. If I did connect it, I'd need to be able to reach in and pull up on the tensioner to engage the motor. That would mean I couldn't hold the meter leads in place, and there's just no place to put 'em where they'll make contact and stay put. I'll wait to hear back from you before I do anything else. Thanks!
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| Posted: Sat Jul 11th, 2009 11:48 am |
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28th Post |
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Budget Appliance Repair Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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I'm I correct in reading that you did check and see that you were getting 12vdc to the motor relay coil? If yes, then next is to pull both wires off that motor relay and start the dryer and get it to the mode were it it counting down and should be running. Then with the meter set to the ohm setting check for continuity across the two terminals on the motor relay that you pulled the wires from. If you are getting continuity across these terminals then shut the dryer down and make sure they then show open. If this all works ok then most likely you have a break in the wiring harness somewhere. Check each of those motor wires, (4 and 5), to a good ground point on the cabinet. If you then see 110volts on wire#4 when checking to ground, (zero volts on wire#5), then you are loosing the neutral somewhere, (the low voltage readings of around 40volts would also seem to indicate that possibility. If you see the 110volts on wire#4 then check with your meter set on ohm's and check the neutral wire#5 at the motor to D3 at the door switch, then with the door switch closed to the neutral connection of the power cord. I also went back to your first post and notice you said you check the power at the back of the dryer and had 220volts as required, but I don't see any mention of you checking each leg to the center post, (neutral), for 110volts on each leg to neutral. There is a possibility that you have lost the neutral connection in the breaker box or at the wall plug. Last edited on Sat Jul 11th, 2009 11:54 am by Budget Appliance Repair ____________________ William Burk (Willie) Willie's Budget Appliance Repair Eureka, CA 95501 |
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| Posted: Sun Jul 12th, 2009 01:47 pm |
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29th Post |
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telefunkenu47 Master Appliantologist
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Ive seen this movie! Check line 1 to neutral at the terminal block while pushing the start button. Ill bet my paycheck that the voltage drops dow to 60 or so volts. Now go check it out and tell me Im wrong!
____________________ Even root canal is easy...if you're a dentist... |
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| Posted: Fri Jul 17th, 2009 11:42 pm |
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30th Post |
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kdog Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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marvinmartian wrote: All of my manuals (and the tech sheets that were inside the console) are in storage, where I may never again find them. Pretty much defeats the purpose of puttin 'em there to begin with 
____________________ two wrongs don't make a right,but three lefts do. |
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