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 Moderated by: RegUS_PatOff, Pegi, appl.tech.29501 Tell a friend about this page... all your other friends are doing it!
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Kenmore (Whirlpool) 110.29962890 spins only with help  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Sat Feb 14th, 2009 04:03 am
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Tampa Patty
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My top loading washer agitates fine, and it drains, but the spin acts like it doesn't want to get out of bed in the morning. I hear the normal sounding drop-thunk that usually signals start of the spin cycle but it doesn't actually start moving until I physically give the basket a (very light) push, and then it spins. Still, even with a push, it leaves clothes soapy and soggy.

Does this point only to the transmission? 

I wonder if this might mean anything: When I open the door mid-spin, as the basket stops, the basket sounds as if it's making contact with water beneath it in the (presumably by-now drained) tub and there's a definite swishing sound. Is that normal? The rubber rim that seals the top of the basket and tub long ago fell off and got thrown away. If a sock or something slipped in there, would it cause this hesitant spin?

The door switch is nearly new. I inspected the pump not long ago and it was clear. 

Washer is 10-years-old and I would replace it if I weren't stuck like a deer in headlights trying to decide between water-hogging top loaders and moldy front-loaders.

Thank you in advance for any words of wisdom.

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 Posted: Sat Feb 14th, 2009 01:29 pm
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nickfixit
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The most likely cause is a worn out or oil-soaked clutch. The next likely problem is a stripped out basket drive block.

The water sounds are normal, the basket top ring is hollow and half filled with fluid to help dampen vibrations during spin

Nick

Last edited on Sat Feb 14th, 2009 01:30 pm by nickfixit



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 Posted: Sat Feb 14th, 2009 03:31 pm
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Tampa Patty
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I'll tackle this after my hairdo today.

First the clutch...

And then, if the problem is a stripped out basket drive block, would that be easily visible or is there some diagnostic thing I could do to figure out if it's stripped?

You are very kind to help, and I will continue to be a beer fund supporter.


 

 

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 Posted: Sat Feb 14th, 2009 03:50 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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Check Tabs on top of Spin Tube # 4

    

 

click on picture
 
Drive Block # 15


Attachment: P9060295-00003.png (Downloaded 163 times)

Last edited on Sun Feb 15th, 2009 01:46 am by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Sat Feb 14th, 2009 04:12 pm
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NCSU_laundry_tech
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"And then, if the problem is a stripped out basket drive block, would that be easily visible or is there some diagnostic thing I could do to figure out if it's stripped?
"

remove the agitator and then you can see if the tabs of the basket drive are locked into the drive block



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 Posted: Sun Feb 15th, 2009 12:11 am
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Tampa Patty
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Removing the agitator. This is what I see below the agitator cap (photo). The inner ring doesn't lift out to expose the bolt. How do I get to the bolt? Is that recessed notch for a ratchet wrench drive? It seems weird, cuz it's plastic.

(Is it necessary to remove the agitator to get to the clutch?)

And, happy Valentine's Day.

Attachment: agitator top.jpg (Downloaded 155 times)

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 Posted: Sun Feb 15th, 2009 12:13 am
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Pegi
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Your 1/2 inch socket extention is used to remove that...



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 Posted: Sun Feb 15th, 2009 01:15 am
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Tampa Patty
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Thanks, Pegi. That worked. Now on to the rest of it...

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 Posted: Sun Feb 15th, 2009 10:32 pm
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Tampa Patty
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I'm so excited... I got to the clutch.

Two of the six pads are very worn (the two counterclockwise from the spring). One came off when I touched it. (photo attached). But four seem normal.

Would this be enough to cause the slow spin?

Patty

 

Attachment: clutch pads.jpg (Downloaded 140 times)

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 Posted: Mon Feb 16th, 2009 01:53 am
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Tampa Patty
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P.S. This is the drive cam. It looks kind of burned.

When I replace it, will it automatically find its contact on the clutch ring, or do I need to be precise about how I position the new clutch ring?

 

Attachment: drive cam.jpg (Downloaded 132 times)

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 Posted: Mon Feb 16th, 2009 08:03 am
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shane
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The new clutch will come with the plastic drive cam, the only thing to watch for is when you go to slide the transmission up into place the plastic cam does not hit the clutch spring. Once everything is back together everything will engage by itself once you put machine into spin.

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 Posted: Mon Feb 16th, 2009 06:07 pm
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Tampa Patty
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Nick Fixit, RegUS_PatOff, NCSU_laundry_tech, Pegi and Shane....

Thank you all so much. The washer is working better than it has in years. I'd forgotten what a real spin looked like.

There is fresh beer in your pantry. Have a cold one on me.

:D,

Patty

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 Posted: Mon Feb 16th, 2009 09:00 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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:bananadance::bananadance::bananadance:      :pint:



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 Posted: Tue Feb 17th, 2009 05:00 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Tampa Patty, I just want to say how hugely impressed I am with you.  You took on a major repair project without knowing anything about it.  And you succeeded!  You have  demonstrated patience, perseverance, manual ability, and courage that is exemplary to other Apprentices.  To recognize your achievement, I am proud to present to you the Samurai School of Appliantology Apprentice of Distinction Award.  Congratulations!  :cheers:






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 Posted: Tue Feb 17th, 2009 05:30 pm
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Tampa Patty
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I am so touched. Sniffle, sniffle.

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 Posted: Thu Apr 2nd, 2009 11:24 pm
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applianceman18007260692
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Excellent !!!



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