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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Maytag Performa PAV2200AWW doesn't agitate properly |
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| Maytag Performa PAV2200AWW doesn't agitate properly | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Fri Oct 31st, 2008 01:07 pm |
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1st Post |
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GANDARS Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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When it goes in to the agitate cycle the tub spins counter clock wise and the clothes spin instead of agitating. (Not a fast spin like the drain cycle.) Same problem as this machine in this link, only a different model machine. http://applianceguru.com/forum2/15200.html Would like to know which parts to order. I'm thinking the "snubber" maybe, or more parts? And would I go about changing it the same way (the long screws tenique)? Any help or advise would be appreciated. Thanks Last edited on Sat Nov 1st, 2008 11:42 am by |
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| Posted: Sat Nov 1st, 2008 01:39 am |
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2nd Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology 
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Does the tub spin properly when you set the washer to spin? Also, remove the front panel and watch the motor pulley during agitate. Make sure that, while viewing the motor from the pulley end, that the motor pulley turns CLOCKWISE during agitate. If the motor runs in agitate but the unit does not agitate, you have a bad gearcase. (so long as the motor is running in the correct direction, not spinning when should be agitating.) If the thrust bearing were bad you would have a slow or no spin during the spin cycle. Many of those PAV models have a 10 year part warranty on the gearcase.
____________________  If I've helped you with your repair, please consider supporting my flavorite charity: http://beer.fixitnow.com |
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| Posted: Sat Nov 1st, 2008 01:58 am |
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3rd Post |
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GANDARS Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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It spins like it was new in the spin cycle. (Aprox. 7 years old) Just tested it in the agitate cycle, front panel off. *From the floor under the machine looking up*, the belt/pullies are turning clockwise direction in agitate cycle. I can hold the lip of the tub when it's in agitate cycle and it seems to operate somewhat normal. As soon as I let go, the tub and clothes spin counter clockwise (no where near as fast as the spin cycle though). (may or may not be helpful, couple of months ago one of the fins broke off of the top part of the agitator. I think I was just loading too many towels) ?? Last edited on Sat Nov 1st, 2008 02:17 am by GANDARS |
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| Posted: Sat Nov 1st, 2008 02:43 am |
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4th Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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OK, you have a problem with the brake. Here are a couple documents that will help you verify and repair: http://www.mediafire.com/file/zwmhmgnmxzi/maytag-pav-washer-basket-revolves-during-spin.pdf http://www.mediafire.com/file/htjenkxqlwz/maytag-pav-washer-brake.pdf
____________________ If I've helped you with your repair, please consider supporting my flavorite charity: http://beer.fixitnow.com |
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| Posted: Sat Nov 1st, 2008 10:20 am |
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5th Post |
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Trying to help Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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Samurai hit it on the head, brake not holding, if no one has worked on the unit prior, and there is no oil under it, you will need a rotor and stator asm. Link below tells you what you will need to replace it without buying the brake tool, courtesy of Willie at Budget! http://applianceguru.com/forum2/15200.html
____________________ If we saved YOU Beer $$ today, please make a donation to our beer fund by clicking the link below to help keep this site going. I charge $135.95 PLUS PARTS to do this repair!$! http://fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm |
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| Posted: Sat Nov 1st, 2008 11:13 am |
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6th Post |
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GANDARS Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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I bought it new aprox. 7 years ago. About a year ago I had to replace the water pump/bearing and belt. No work was done to it other than that. No oil leaking at all. I kinda thought it was the brake system from all the reading i've been doing. Wanted to make 100% certain and find out for sure the parts to order. Which exact parts would I need to order? Part #'s? Thanks! Last edited on Sat Nov 1st, 2008 11:46 am by |
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| Posted: Sat Nov 1st, 2008 11:49 am |
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7th Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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You keep referring to the wrong parts house; you should be going to RepairClinic because your purchases there help support this site.  Here are the parts you need: http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=1032674 http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=1057484 You'll also see suggestions for additional tools on those pages which you may consider.
____________________ If I've helped you with your repair, please consider supporting my flavorite charity: http://beer.fixitnow.com |
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| Posted: Sat Nov 1st, 2008 01:15 pm |
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8th Post |
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GANDARS Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Oops! Sorry, The link I posted had the parts in a broken down view. Will edit that!  Thanks for the helpful info!
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| Posted: Thu Nov 6th, 2008 01:17 pm |
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9th Post |
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GANDARS Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Got around to taking it apart. Is this typical of a worn out brake system or is there more problems? Worth fixing? Thanks Last edited on Thu Nov 6th, 2008 01:18 pm by GANDARS |
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| Posted: Thu Nov 6th, 2008 01:29 pm |
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10th Post |
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Scottthewolf Sublime Master of Appliantology
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Holy Mackerel! I've never seen one that bad. Looks like something is definitely leaking oil or grease.
____________________ Scott Wolf |
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| Posted: Thu Nov 6th, 2008 04:52 pm |
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11th Post |
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Trying to help Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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If that trans was leaking oil you would have a PUDDLE under it. Some one took that unit apart prior and applied grease too it in an attempt to stop the loud SQUAWK that happens when the brake grabs. It is supposed to be dry, no grease or oil at all! I would clean up everything except for a light sheen on the splines of the trans shaft and see if anything is leaking. There is no grease in this unit. The trans is filled with 60-90 weight gear oil. Now oil and dirt mixed can look and act like grease, but that is perfectly applied around the areas someone would apply it if they wanted to alleviate the brake grabbing noise and did not know the system.
____________________ If we saved YOU Beer $$ today, please make a donation to our beer fund by clicking the link below to help keep this site going. I charge $135.95 PLUS PARTS to do this repair!$! http://fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm |
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| Posted: Fri Nov 7th, 2008 07:00 am |
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12th Post |
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Budget Appliance Repair Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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I would totally agree with TTH on that one at first look, but it appears from an earlier post this person has had this machine since new, (7 years old), and didn't mention having any prior problems for anyone to be in there working on it. If noone has been into or service this machine for what TTH said to have happend then you may have a very slight lower transmission seal leak and from dust and grit build up in the very small amounts of leaked oil turned into that gunky greasy stuff. Do you see any signs of a thiner oil anywhere else that looks like it might be leaking from the transmission where the lower input shaft enters the bottom of the transmission? If I had one like that and it didn't look like any substantial amount of leakage out the lower input shaft area, I would clean the brake stator and rotor real good with Brake-Clean that can be found at any auto part store. Then I clean the surface of the brake lining with a piece of emory cloth, light oil on slines where rotor slides up/down on transmission and reassemble using the correct shim washer so brake can grab and hold solid and still release correctly. Last edited on Fri Nov 7th, 2008 07:09 am by Budget Appliance Repair ____________________ William Burk (Willie) Willie's Budget Appliance Repair Eureka, CA 95501 |
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| Posted: Fri Nov 7th, 2008 11:48 am |
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13th Post |
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GANDARS Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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I bought the maching new in box approx. 7 years ago. About a year or so ago I had to change the water pump/bearing and belt, it started squealing in the spin cycle and the belt was gummy. Did that and it worked perfectly until it recently stopped aggitating. No One, including my self has ever done any other work to it. This washer has a plastic cup that snaps in the center of the big pully that I had to remove to get those parts off. I did notice a small amount, maybe a teaspoon of oil (liquidy) in the plastic cup (didn't think much of it, but I was wondering. Reason for the picture and inquiry). But there wasn't, nor has ever been any oil on the floor from it. This is the 1st time that part of the unit has been gone into since it was made. If grease would have been perfectly applied there 7ish years ago, surely the brake system wouln't have lasted this long? It has never made any squawk noises since i've had it. The squealing/grinding noise it made about a year ago was the pump bearing (had to be, when I replaced it it worked and sounded like a new one). I think the grease is a result of the gear oil leaking and mixing with all the dust/dirt under the unit (someone mentioned that) . Any solid added to oil and all that movement would make it pasty. Probably looks so perfectly applied because those parts are tightly fitted and rotate in that motion? The Samurai mentioned it possibly having a 10 year warranty on the gear case, would that be included in this problem? And how would I go about finding out if it does and how to make a claim? Thanks for all the helpful info. If the unit isn't covered, is it worth fixing ($$$) and is it an easy or tough job to do (special tools)? By the way, the inch and a half screw tip was great, I just used 2. Thanks (Scott, glad I was able to give you a 1st! Feel free to keep the pic. if you like). Added: BTW, any way other than changing a seal or something to keep the oil out of those parts. silicone! lol or maybe divert it... but then it would eventually drain dry... but how long would it last...........hmmmm  Last edited on Fri Nov 7th, 2008 11:54 am by GANDARS |
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| Posted: Fri Nov 7th, 2008 02:00 pm |
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14th Post |
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Trying to help Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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A teaspoon full in the dust cap is not a big deal, All that gunk is. I have gone on plenty of units with your complaint and have found grease sprayed up on the rotor through the gap created when the pulley is run up. The brake will hold sometimes, and it it is worn, start to spin like yours. When I ask the consumer if anyone has ever worked on it, you usually are told someone came out for a noise at the end of the cycle complaint and lubricated something underneath the unit. This brake grabs so violently that it creates a loud squeak when it grabs as the pad wears. If your trans is covered, it would be the parts only not the labor. Do you have a serial number of the unit? We can tell from that.
____________________ If we saved YOU Beer $$ today, please make a donation to our beer fund by clicking the link below to help keep this site going. I charge $135.95 PLUS PARTS to do this repair!$! http://fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm |
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| Posted: Fri Nov 7th, 2008 03:52 pm |
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15th Post |
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GANDARS Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Ahh, so they got a quick fix to the noise but didn't properly solve the problem. Is that shady methods? The sticker on the machine has this info: Model # PAV2200AWW Rev. 10 Serial No. 10912378YB Wonder If I could install them, but they probably wouldn't go for that i'm thinking. I'm guessing the gunk has to be from the same source of oil that's in that cap, correct? I know for 100% certanty no one has ever worked or rigged it. If it comes down to labor, it may wind up being better off replacing it when it finally konks out? What can I expect (symptom wise) if the transmission starts going out? Thanks! Last edited on Fri Nov 7th, 2008 03:58 pm by GANDARS |
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| Posted: Fri Nov 7th, 2008 05:29 pm |
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16th Post |
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Trying to help Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Ahh, so they got a quick fix to the noise but didn't properly solve the problem. Is that shady methods? So shady grass wont grow my non beer drinking friend. Trans is covered for parts for 10 years from purchase, yours was made in 2000 so parts are covered, labor not. They will not give you the part, it has to be installed by a authorized rep. I do not think (with the cost of units these days) that it would be worth it. If you are used to replacing them, you can bang them out in an hour, hour 15. I charge $175 for a trans job on this style unit if they want to go with it and I'm inexpensive compared to most. I would get some brake cleaner as Willie suggested and clean that bad boy up and see if the brake holds. If she does, ride er out!! You already have it taken apart!
____________________ If we saved YOU Beer $$ today, please make a donation to our beer fund by clicking the link below to help keep this site going. I charge $135.95 PLUS PARTS to do this repair!$! http://fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm |
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| Posted: Fri Nov 7th, 2008 05:59 pm |
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17th Post |
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GANDARS Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Yeah I quit throwing em back a few years ago.  Found out it was of no benifit to me. That's kinda what I figured. If it was only a teaspoon of oil + the amount (a little bit of oil and dust makes alot of gunk) in the brakes in 7-8 years, then maybe it'll go a few more years with that small of a leak. I'll keep checking that cup from time to time, whipe the oil out if any is in there. Not sure if that get's slung back up in the brakes, but it can't hurt to. And if it happens again, i'll just try the same thing being it's relatively easy. Should be a good while before the trans. looses enough oil to damage it, leaking as little as it is (if it stays that little). Well, it is what it is. Thanks for all the helpful info Fellas. Very much appreciated!
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| Posted: Sat Nov 8th, 2008 08:26 am |
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18th Post |
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Budget Appliance Repair Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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With as little oil you saw in the cup and what's on the brake, you won't have to worry about the amount of oil. As far as fixing the transmission, it's just a lower seal (Probably less the $10), but it takes a special tool to remove the old seal and install the newone with out cutting the lip. That tool is almost $100. There is a possiblity that if you called a authorized warranty service out on the transmission leak they may only cover the seal, (part of the transmission), and charge you all labor just to install the seal and then want to also charge you for a new brake stator and rotor, (there's a good chance they wouldn't want to clean them up and reuse them). I would suggest you do as I suggested in the prior post, that should fix it and there's a good chance you might get another 4 or 5 years out of it if something else doesn't fail, (these aren't the best machines, see lots and lots of snubber problems, and use to see lots of main tub seals going out on these but not so much anymore, and transmission problems).
____________________ William Burk (Willie) Willie's Budget Appliance Repair Eureka, CA 95501 |
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| Posted: Sat Nov 8th, 2008 03:17 pm |
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19th Post |
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GANDARS Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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That's what I did, got it all back together. Agitating just fine. I think that's as much as i'm gonna do to it. If and when it gives me problems again i'll try the same thing. If it works, good. If not i'm scrapping it and getting another. You would think with a name like Maytag you were getting something decent. Guess not being it's their economy series. Thanks again everyone for all the help and info!
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| Posted: Sat Nov 8th, 2008 05:37 pm |
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20th Post |
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Trying to help Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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You would think with a name like Maytag you were getting something decent Come on GANDARS, 8 years and all you've thrown at it was a pump, belt and a can of brake cleaner? Doesn't seem all that bad to me! Your looking at a washer that was $400 bucks or less new! How many trouble free loads has she run?? Wait till you get one of the new energy efficient ones with the one year warranty that throws a rear bearing 3 weeks after the one year warranty runs out!! $500 job for a $800 dollar unit. 
____________________ If we saved YOU Beer $$ today, please make a donation to our beer fund by clicking the link below to help keep this site going. I charge $135.95 PLUS PARTS to do this repair!$! http://fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm |
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