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NCSU_laundry_tech
Sublime Master of Appliantology
| Joined: | Mon Aug 18th, 2008 |
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Posted: Tue Nov 4th, 2008 01:14 |
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____________________
To alcohol! The cause of... and solution to... all of life's problems.
Doc Watson - Shady Grove: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b-kaG1NuLZM
riding my dirtbike in clayton NC: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NnCmY0vzmYM
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Will B. Fixed
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Tue Nov 4th, 2008 12:21 |
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NCSU_laundry_tech wrote:
Say it isn't SO !
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NCSU_laundry_tech
Sublime Master of Appliantology
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Posted: Tue Nov 4th, 2008 12:29 |
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you have already spent $300 to fix a washer that is $500 for a new one, AND it was a POS design when you bought it.
just my opinion, and you know what they say about opinions.
____________________
To alcohol! The cause of... and solution to... all of life's problems.
Doc Watson - Shady Grove: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b-kaG1NuLZM
riding my dirtbike in clayton NC: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NnCmY0vzmYM
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Will B. Fixed
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Tue Nov 4th, 2008 13:26 |
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NCSU_laundry_tech wrote: you have already spent $300 to fix a washer that is $500 for a new one, AND it was a POS design when you bought it.
just my opinion, and you know what they say about opinions.
Did you read that this trouble came from a power surge ?
Of course the FIRST thing I always do is check the current replacement prices of anything that fails to work..
This machine seems to sell for much less in your part of the country.. would take about $700 to replace it here by the time it was in the basement washing clothes.
and of course, since the timer does not make one bit of difference, and can be returned, the cost can be cut back down to $150.00 for just the speed control at this point in time if someone knows the missing piece to the puzzle.
I still hold out hope that it could be something small that's keeping it from working.
I'll hang on the forum a few days yet to get a few other opinions, since as you say.. they can vary a bit 
Thanks for your opinion however, will keep that in the "buy new one" list.
Of course, that still leaves the question of which other POS design I should buy as a replacement, in this price range none seem better than others in that respect, and I'm not even sure about the $2K machines being better built and longer lasting.
Last edited on Tue Nov 4th, 2008 13:47 by Will B. Fixed
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Budget Appliance Repair
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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| Location: | Eureka, California USA |
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Posted: Wed Nov 5th, 2008 11:10 |
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Will B. Fixed wrote: Budget Appliance Repair wrote: Should go into high speed spin empty. You still have a problem somewhere. Have you check the door switch/lock assembly, it can cause these kinds of problems.
Thanks for the extra help..
Yes, the door switch and wire were checked in the initial testing of voltage between pins 5 to 6 on the harness side of the six pin plug from the speed control board. That read 120V which indicated switch and wire were good.
Plus the diagnostic flow chart does not call for a test of the door switch for "no spin" when you have "tumble" action.
Please do not read me as anything but grateful for your help, only answering in a way as to not confuse matters more.
Tom
I will ask again, are you positivily sure the door latch/lock switch is fully functional???
When the wax motor fails, (it is the part that actually physically locks the latch), it won't let the machine go into a high speed spin because it knows the door isn't physically locked and could be opened if you pull the power or shut the machine off and immediately tried to open the door.
The wax motor could have continuity and heat up correctly but the wax mechanism can fail so the wax leaks out as it heats and no longer pushes the plunger out to lock the door latch and close the switch in the latch that tells it that the wax motor has extended properly.
To test the wax motor you could remove the door latch/lock assembly and attach the two connectors of the wax motor to a test cord and then click the latch assembly onto the openned door and plug the test cord into the power outlet. Wait about 2-3minutes and try gently to pull the latch assembly off the door catch. If it pops right off then the wax motor isn't working correctly, (you won't be able to pull the latch assembly off the catch until about 2-3 minutes after you remove power from the wax motor).
I've never seen one of these mechanical timers on these units fail, but plenty of speed control boards and wax motors in the door latch/lock assembly.
Last edited on Wed Nov 5th, 2008 11:13 by Budget Appliance Repair
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William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501
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Will B. Fixed
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Wed Nov 5th, 2008 13:32 |
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Budget Appliance Repair wrote: Will B. Fixed wrote: Budget Appliance Repair wrote: Should go into high speed spin empty. You still have a problem somewhere. Have you check the door switch/lock assembly, it can cause these kinds of problems.
Thanks for the extra help..
Yes, the door switch and wire were checked in the initial testing of voltage between pins 5 to 6 on the harness side of the six pin plug from the speed control board. That read 120V which indicated switch and wire were good.
Plus the diagnostic flow chart does not call for a test of the door switch for "no spin" when you have "tumble" action.
Please do not read me as anything but grateful for your help, only answering in a way as to not confuse matters more.
Tom
I will ask again, are you positivily sure the door latch/lock switch is fully functional???
When the wax motor fails, (it is the part that actually physically locks the latch), it won't let the machine go into a high speed spin because it knows the door isn't physically locked and could be opened if you pull the power or shut the machine off and immediately tried to open the door.
The wax motor could have continuity and heat up correctly but the wax mechanism can fail so the wax leaks out as it heats and no longer pushes the plunger out to lock the door latch and close the switch in the latch that tells it that the wax motor has extended properly.
To test the wax motor you could remove the door latch/lock assembly and attach the two connectors of the wax motor to a test cord and then click the latch assembly onto the openned door and plug the test cord into the power outlet. Wait about 2-3minutes and try gently to pull the latch assembly off the door catch. If it pops right off then the wax motor isn't working correctly, (you won't be able to pull the latch assembly off the catch until about 2-3 minutes after you remove power from the wax motor).
I've never seen one of these mechanical timers on these units fail, but plenty of speed control boards and wax motors in the door latch/lock assembly.
Thank you for another reply....
I can only be as sure as the results of the voltage test for it, I had no reason to doubt the results which read 120VAC and instructed me to move on to next test. And the fact that the door can not be opened after the line switch knob is pulled out, and you do have to wait even if you push the knob in and unplug the machine.
The motor runs and it does tumble and has spun off and on throughout all the trial runs during this last month of testing.
I will certainly use your test procedure above to test it further if you think it could still be a problem.
This is also something that would cause the timer to not advance??
I'll be back to post the results of your new test.....
(Just to note, I pulled out the work order from the one and only repair call it had when under warranty in 2004, the service person replaced the door lock unit because the door would not unlock properly at that time. While waiting for him to order the lock, I found out about the speed control recall and he replaced that unit in addition. Not that the lock unit could not go bad again...)
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Will B. Fixed
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Wed Nov 5th, 2008 23:57 |
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A funny thing happened on the way to the forum....
I had some other work to do around the house today, and needed to do the test on the door lock/wax motor...
Most of my work clothes were dirty so I figured since the washer WOULD wash and rinse okay, I would run a load through and hang them on the line outside even without a spin, they could drip dry by the next day.
I waited right in front of the machine as it doesn't take that long to get to where the timer would not advance and wanted to be ready to move it ahead.... then I could get on with removing the door lock assy and testing it.
Wait for it.......
It ran the full wash including high speed final spin ! 
Since then, we have run another three loads through without a hitch!
Now I don't want to look a gift horse in the mouth, but what the heck is up with THAT?
As far as I can tell, it's now fixed with the replacement of new speed control board.
Once again, I'm puzzled, but with a smile on my face and ready to put it all behind me after I return the unused timer for a refund.
Go figure...I must have paid enough dues to earn a break!
Thanks to everyone here who tried to help me 
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Will B. Fixed
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Sat Nov 15th, 2008 17:15 |
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Just an update to this repair job, washer is still working just fine after it suddenly decided to get back on the job with only the new speed control unit.
Never got to test the wax motor on the door latch, but I'm not worried about it now, and I'm sure I'll get my chance within a few years anyway.
Timer sent back to Repairclinic.com for refund and waiting for credit to post to my card, so bottom line was $140. plus some extra shipping charges.
We had another power outage the other day.... even though the washer now has a surge protector, I went down and unplugged it
Thanks again for the needed help,
Tom
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