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Older Carrier HVAC  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Tue Feb 3rd, 2009 03:21 pm
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papollonia
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Guys:

Let me perform those checks and get back to you...

Should be able to get to it today sometime...

Thanks so much for all the help on this issue..

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 Posted: Tue Feb 3rd, 2009 03:59 pm
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Bobice
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I have confidence in you. :D



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 Posted: Tue Feb 3rd, 2009 06:16 pm
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papollonia
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Bobice:

Thank you so much, you don't know how much I appreciate that..
For some reason this has got me baffled...

I still have not done any tests...

Once i do i will post the results

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 Posted: Tue Feb 3rd, 2009 07:37 pm
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It is a machine which man made. Therefore a man can fix it.:D



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 Posted: Tue Feb 3rd, 2009 09:11 pm
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papollonia
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yes you are correct!!!

Still have not had a change to do anything yet,, hope to do something later on..... or First thing WeD.. Mornign

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 Posted: Tue Feb 3rd, 2009 09:28 pm
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Any additional help, I am right here. I got your back. :D



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 Posted: Wed Feb 4th, 2009 06:17 pm
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papollonia
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hvacdrd wrote: The fact that you can control the fan from the thermostat indicates the 24V transformer survived the sparks & smoke. Let's move to the thermostat, what are we working with? You can make the following checks at the unit with your meter set to VAC on a scale above 25VAC. With the thermostat set to heat and temp set above room temp test from terminal R to W - if you show 24VAC, we have a thermostat problem.

Next check R to C to verify 24VAC. If voltage is ok, jumper R to W and the unit should start if wired correctly.
Ok I am standing in front of the t-stat:

I see G, RC,RH,Y,W terminals... You mentioned a ' C '... There is no ' C '..

So I set (acv) my Multi meter up and tested across ' RH ' and ' W '...
I am reading ranging from 1.5 to 2.6.. The battery in the meter is very old..

Is that correct????

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 Posted: Wed Feb 4th, 2009 06:28 pm
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papollonia wrote: ...
So I set (acv) my Multi meter up and tested across ' RH ' and ' W '...
I am reading ranging from 1.5 to 2.6.. The battery in the meter is very old..

Is that correct????

RH to W should read about 0v AC when Thermostat is adjusted to Heat ON

RH to W should read about 24vAC when adjusted to Heat OFF



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 Posted: Wed Feb 4th, 2009 07:06 pm
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Bobice
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papollonia wrote: hvacdrd wrote: The fact that you can control the fan from the thermostat indicates the 24V transformer survived the sparks & smoke. Let's move to the thermostat, what are we working with? You can make the following checks at the unit with your meter set to VAC on a scale above 25VAC. With the thermostat set to heat and temp set above room temp test from terminal R to W - if you show 24VAC, we have a thermostat problem.

Next check R to C to verify 24VAC. If voltage is ok, jumper R to W and the unit should start if wired correctly.
Ok I am standing in front of the t-stat:

I see G, RC,RH,Y,W terminals... You mentioned a ' C '... There is no ' C '..

So I set (acv) my Multi meter up and tested across ' RH ' and ' W '...
I am reading ranging from 1.5 to 2.6.. The battery in the meter is very old..

Is that correct????
Did you download the Honeywell link I posted? it gives you check-out procedure.



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 Posted: Wed Feb 4th, 2009 09:51 pm
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papollonia
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Bobice wrote: papollonia wrote: hvacdrd wrote: The fact that you can control the fan from the thermostat indicates the 24V transformer survived the sparks & smoke. Let's move to the thermostat, what are we working with? You can make the following checks at the unit with your meter set to VAC on a scale above 25VAC. With the thermostat set to heat and temp set above room temp test from terminal R to W - if you show 24VAC, we have a thermostat problem.

Next check R to C to verify 24VAC. If voltage is ok, jumper R to W and the unit should start if wired correctly.
Ok I am standing in front of the t-stat:

I see G, RC,RH,Y,W terminals... You mentioned a ' C '... There is no ' C '..

So I set (acv) my Multi meter up and tested across ' RH ' and ' W '...
I am reading ranging from 1.5 to 2.6.. The battery in the meter is very old..

Is that correct????
Did you download the Honeywell link I posted? it gives you check-out procedure.
The t-stat is a White-Rodgers, but i will look at the honeywell pdf again..
It is a weird t-stat... from 1993...

Let me try this again... Too much stuff breaking around all at once!!!

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 Posted: Wed Feb 4th, 2009 09:52 pm
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papollonia
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RegUS_PatOff:

Thanks for the reply.

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 Posted: Wed Feb 4th, 2009 10:33 pm
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Bobice
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http://www.white-rodgers.com/wrdhom/pdfs/06_Cat_pages/Cat_06_pg0191.pdf



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 Posted: Thu Feb 5th, 2009 12:26 am
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papollonia
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BobIce:

Here is mine....

White-rodgers 1F56-301

http://www.white-rodgers.com/wrdhom/pdfs/instruction_sheets/0037-6497.pdf

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 Posted: Thu Feb 5th, 2009 12:15 pm
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Bobice
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Reading the Carrier Diagram, no wonder you are messed up. :?

They have Red to Rc-Rh ( Power ), Black to B ( Fan ), Blue to Y ( Cool ) , Orange to W (heat) on their thermostat sub base.

Yours is standard, so make sure you have the Black lead or Green lead depending if whoever installed your unit used the standard thermostat colors to G on your sub-base.
B on your sub-base is for something entirely different. :)



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 Posted: Thu Feb 5th, 2009 12:59 pm
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papollonia
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Good, So I am not going insane here!!!!!  :)

Ok, I am home most of the day today, It's on my To-Do list for today......

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 Posted: Fri Feb 6th, 2009 06:26 pm
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papollonia
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I have no idea why I can not figure this out.
But here are pictures of my T-Stat.
I am going to borrow another multi meter.. I think there is something wrong with mine

Cover off:




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 Posted: Fri Feb 6th, 2009 07:47 pm
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Bobice
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papolloniapapolloniapapolloniapapolloniapapolloniapapollonia wrote: I have no idea why I can not figure this out.
But here are pictures of my T-Stat.
I am going to borrow another multi meter.. I think there is something wrong with mine

Cover off:




Rh to W 24 Volts with switch in off position. Good Thermostat Sub-base, With switch to heat Bad Sub-base.
Jumper Rh to W and leave for a few minutes, you should have heat.
By the way the anticipator (metal arrow) should be set the ampre rating on the gas valve, otherwise it will not open

Last edited on Fri Feb 6th, 2009 07:53 pm by Bobice



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 Posted: Fri Feb 6th, 2009 07:59 pm
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Bobice
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Oh for Pete's sake, your anticipator is set at point 25 :shock:, set it for point SIX :)



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 Posted: Fri Feb 6th, 2009 09:15 pm
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papollonia
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OH MY!!!!!!!!!! Do I feel like a#############

I noticed that the wire on the anticipator is broken.
You can see it in the picture. Maybe that is what sparked..

I would think that could be a issue?

Think it is time for a new t-stat?

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 Posted: Fri Feb 6th, 2009 09:36 pm
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papollonia wrote: ... I noticed that the wire on the anticipator is broken.
You can see it in the picture. Maybe that is what sparked..

I would think that could be a issue?

Think it is time for a new t-stat?

YES,  unless you can connect that broken wire to the .25 stud, but may not be able to solder that type of wire.

T-stats are cheap enough ...



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