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refpoman
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Posted: Fri Aug 15th, 2008 05:35 |
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| I noticed the other day that my A/C started to put out warmer air than usual. I started to check things out and went outside with the A/C running to find that the condenser fan motor wasn't spinning. The area above the motor was very hot and I put my ear up to the unit and heard a buzzing sound as well. Do I just need to replace the motor to get things back up and running? I would love to do the job myself if possible, so any advice would be greatly appreciated!! I've got the power all shut off to the unit and torn apart ready to go to town. Thanks! Last edited on Fri Aug 15th, 2008 05:37 by refpoman
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dkpd1581
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Posted: Mon Aug 18th, 2008 00:09 |
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Let the motor cool off and after a few hours (and with the power off) take your meter and check the following:
1. Make sure that there are not shorts to ground on any of the 3 winding leads
2. Make sure that there is continuity through all three windings
3. Check to see if the capacitor is within 10% of the listed value. If not replace.
If everything is good so far, hook everything back up, apply power, make the t-stat call for cooling, and measure the amp reading on the common lead of the fan motor. It will either:
1. Start and run fine - not likely (enjoy your AC)
2. Start up and appear to run fine but the amp draw will begin to increase to the point where it stops (bad bearings - replace motor or bad capacitor - replace capacitor)
3. Try to start, not spin, and make a humming noise (locked rotor - replace)
4. Sit there like a bag of rocks with no amp draw - make sure all lines are connected and there is 230 VAC applied to L1/T1 and L2/T2 off of the contactor
If you do replace the fan motor it is advisable to replace the blade as well. Old blades can be unbalanced, become damaged on removal from the old motor, or come apart with the increased power and torque supplied by the new motor.
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refpoman
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Mon Aug 18th, 2008 04:39 |
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| Thanks for the reply! When I started the A/C back up, it did number 3 on your list. What do you mean by locked rotor? Or did you mean to type MOTOR? How do I need to handle removing the capacitor...I've read you can get a pretty good 'ol shock if your not careful?
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RegUS_PatOff
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Posted: Mon Aug 18th, 2008 07:28 |
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I do believe he did mean "locked rotor"- the rotating part of the Motor, the stationary part is the "stator"
Capacitor warnings... (usually worse in high-voltage DC applications), just make sure you short the Capacitor Terminals together (possibly with a screwdriver) to discharge any residual charge...
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refpoman
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Posted: Mon Aug 18th, 2008 14:40 |
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I'm very green at working on A/C units!! There are a few terminals on top of the capacitor. Do I need to touch any particular terminals to short out any possible remaining charge of that capacitor? The unit has been off a week now as well. Thanks!
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RegUS_PatOff
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Posted: Mon Aug 18th, 2008 14:55 |
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There shouldn't be much charge left, if any, after a week.
It would be safe to short any & all together (if the power is off).
Last edited on Mon Aug 18th, 2008 14:56 by RegUS_PatOff
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refpoman
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Posted: Mon Aug 18th, 2008 14:59 |
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Just curious...when I order a new motor assembly, does it usually come with attached wires for installation?
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RegUS_PatOff
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Posted: Mon Aug 18th, 2008 15:39 |
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| Depending on the Motor replacement (substitute), brand, it may or may not come with a Capacitor (or available separately) and , the wires may be, or maybe not, depending on if it has different voltages, speeds, rotation direction, ect... but this one is probably 220v, single speed, fixed direction... Last edited on Mon Aug 18th, 2008 15:42 by RegUS_PatOff
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refpoman
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Posted: Tue Aug 19th, 2008 04:56 |
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| If the wires don't come with the new motor, then do I just use the wires from the burned out motor?
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Cactus Bob
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Posted: Tue Aug 19th, 2008 07:18 |
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All york motors come with the wires to make your life easy only go with a factory YORK motor ordering it with your units mod #
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