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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > GE refrigerator PFS22SISBSS 2006 Compressor testing

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GE refrigerator PFS22SISBSS 2006 Compressor testing  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Wed Nov 17th, 2010 06:48 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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besides the +12v DC and Common, it uses the other wires for speed control and feedback.

may not run if connected to +12v ...

and may be different control feedback signals for each Fan ..



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 Posted: Wed Nov 17th, 2010 07:33 am
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gbouchzoo
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Aha, so it is a variable speed fan as I had anticipated; the GE Tech who came by on Monday could not confirm for me either way if it is single speed or variable.

Thanks for the information.

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 Posted: Wed Nov 17th, 2010 10:23 pm
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gbouchzoo
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Condenser fan red to white tests @ 1000 ohms. I can only hope that once I install the new board that I do not find that the compressor is frozen/non-functioning.

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 Posted: Sat Nov 20th, 2010 12:21 am
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gbouchzoo
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The good news-
New board just arrived, removed the original one and installed the replacement and plugged the unit in. All the normal start-up sounds and the condenser fan now spins at full tilt.

The bad news-
The run capacitor/relay clicks in but you can definitively hear a buzzing/arching type sound for about 5-8 seconds and then it kicks off; the compressor does not even give any hint of starting up. I let it run this cycle twice before unplugging the unit.

Revisiting testing the compressor, run capacitor and overload relay.
Touching the three pins in any order of pairs coming off the compressor, all show continuity (to 0). Touching any one of these pins in succession and touching bare metal on the compressor housing returns infinity. Could the compressor still be bad (frozen) internally?

Now this is the curious part; if I touch the blue and black wires connecting to the overload relay I get continuity (to 0), but when I probe the three receptacles (the pairings to the pins from the compressor) I get infinity regardless of combination. When I pull out the run capacitor just enough to get the probes in, touching the two spades (overload relay to run capacitor) also returns infinity. Do these results point to any issues with these two components?

Now to call and schedule a GE Tech again as I probably won't see one until after the holiday.

As always, any guidance gladly accepted and appreciated.

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 Posted: Sat Nov 20th, 2010 01:32 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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sounds like it's a bad Start Relay on the Compressor

I'm not sure about all of your OHM readings, but you should be using a digital OHM meter on the 200 OHM scale.

The Compressor pin combinations should read anywhere from about 3 OHMs to 12 OHMs

 

 



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 Posted: Sat Nov 20th, 2010 01:47 am
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gbouchzoo
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Well I called it on the GE service- not scheduled until Monday 11/29 in the afternoon.

The start relay is an inexpensive enough part. I'm going to try and locate one locally tomorrow and see where that leads.

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 Posted: Tue Nov 23rd, 2010 10:08 pm
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gbouchzoo
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New Run Capacitor installed- same symptoms as before:
The run capacitor/relay clicks in but you can definitively hear a buzzing/arching type sound for about 5-8 seconds and then it kicks off; the compressor does not even give any hint of starting up. I let it run this cycle twice before unplugging the unit.

All the compressor Ohm tests are spot on. What would fail inside the compressor that would not show up in the resistance tests?

Any specific tests/readings that can be done on the overload relay? It just does not make sense that that part is bad as the capacitor and relay are clicking in and out.

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 Posted: Tue Nov 30th, 2010 02:02 am
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gbouchzoo
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GE Tech shows up today, doesn't have an overload relay in his truck to test on my unit; but what really killed me was that even if he did, he couldn't sell it to me or leave it installed. Oh no, we'd have to order a new part through GE and reschedule another visit when the part came in!!!!!

What kind of lame BS is that!!! DIY, it's the way to go.

OK, now that I got that off my chest.......

The tech did connect a bypass harness to the compressor. It started up and hummed like a charm. That's a good thing (provided it stays healthy and does it's job).

I should have just bought the overload relay two weeks ago with the capacitor; would have been a more direct approach and saved me the service call $$$.

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 Posted: Thu Dec 2nd, 2010 09:04 pm
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gbouchzoo
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THE FINAL DILEMMA.....
GE part number WR08X10061 Overload Relay is a sub-part of GE part number WR07X10097 PTC And O.L.P Assembly. As we all know, the Run Capacitor (which I have now purchased but did not/do not need) plugs into the back side of the assembly and the assembly plugs onto the compressor.

Ideally it makes sense to just change out the whole assembly part; the problem is virtually everyone across the country is back-ordered on this assembly for about three more weeks (a common estimate that does not take into account shipment time to me). This leads to the dilemma portion of life.

Now in order to extract the Overload Relay from the PTC/O.L.P. Assembly, one tends to do a fair amount of damage to the assembly housing (I did at least) but not so much that it becomes unusable (hopefully).

After extracting the overload relay, it tests to about .5 ohms. Is this acceptable? If this test result is acceptable this means the fault is in the circuit board portion of the assembly and its 'order and wait' time.
If this test result is not acceptable, this part is readily available.

Testing the contacts (top left and top right) that are bridged by the circuit board result in infinity. This to me does not seem to be a good result. A second opinion would be highly valued!

I just would hate to buy the Overload Relay, install it and then still need to go back and buy the assembly.

Cheers.

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 Posted: Thu Apr 28th, 2011 02:35 pm
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ourstocks2002
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Hi Folks,

I had replaced the condenser fan motor on my fridge about 2 years ago.  I kept the original motor and tested it, 1.75kOhm (1750 Ohms) between red and white wires.  Your note would imply that since the resistance is greater than 1000 Ohms, the motor should be good.  This motor was not turning.  When I replaced it with the new one, the new one worked.  I had tested the resisitance of different wires on both the new and old motor back then and recall that there were some differences but I don't have any notes to share.

What are the other wires (blue, yellow) for?

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the PFS22SISBSS boat anchor?  Sorry but this fridge is a piece of crap, but may make a decent boat anchor.

Thanks,

Chuck

 

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