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3-in-1 for Amana ABD2533DES Fridge?  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Sun Oct 24th, 2010 10:34 pm
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Kendall
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Hello,

A quick intro:

I'm Kendall a Realtor from Southern Oregon.  I'm hoping to save 600 clams on a compressor.  Thanks for having me here on your awesome boards!

The fridge is just over 5 years old, i.e. just out of warranty.  It's a bottom freezer unit.

It started doing the 5 second buzz, "click" and then try again a few minutes later.

After much research on here I opted to order the OEM replacement, rather than the PRO41 an appliance shop tried to sell me.  Mine has the 15 mf capacitor attached.

I replaced it.

Still doing it.  I tried swapping the two relay units back and forth and I get the exact same thing.

I can leave it off for several hours and it will fire up and run for several more.  Then it will repeat the buzzing/click process.

Now after more searches I've determined that it's likely the start windings and the compressor may not be long for this world.

I've also read that there is not a ton of support for the 3-in1 Supco units for a fridge of this post '95 era.

I can see several worst cases...

1.  The 3-in1 kills the compressor... which was likely near death anyway

2.  Fire danger - With a wife and 2 little girls in the house, I'm not too keen on this part, though I've seen some who are not concerned by this.

So I'm hoping for a definitive answer...

Is it worth a shot to see if a 3-in-1 will start that compressor each time?

My other idea is to install a timer on the compressor and maybe an extra fan to keep it cool.

Thanks again!

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 Posted: Sun Oct 24th, 2010 11:05 pm
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KurtiusInterupptus

 

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i only use 3-n-1 start relays for 2 reasons...

1) temporary until i can get the OEM

2) as a last resort when the factory unit won't get it done anymore


i have never worried about fire as the 3-n-1 has overload built in to it...hence the 3 (relay, capacitor, overload).
no guarantee how long this will work. i've seen them go in 6 hours or last 6 years



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 Posted: Sun Oct 24th, 2010 11:21 pm
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Kendall
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Thanks Kurtius!

I've heard that... due to the higher amperage (at least on start,) that the overload setting is also higher and thus can allow the compressor and relay to heat up more to a more dangerous level.  No?

I've also read that there's a danger if I were to have a power surge.  I'm not sure how, but I'm only moderately tech savvy and no expert.  I've also heard that the power company might install a surge protector on spec.

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 Posted: Sun Oct 24th, 2010 11:29 pm
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KurtiusInterupptus

 

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i have never personally seen one overheat to the point of catching a fire, but that does not mean it cant happen.
however i have seen a few OEM start relays toasted to the point of combustion



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 Posted: Mon Oct 25th, 2010 05:14 am
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Kendall
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What's the right unit for my model and how do I connect it up?  Does the old klixon go bye bye?

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 Posted: Mon Oct 25th, 2010 01:25 pm
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You can use a part # 8201799....it works in most any application, if your unit doesn't start then you back to using the hard start and you should begin looking for another frige if this is the case.



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 Posted: Mon Oct 25th, 2010 04:45 pm
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Kendall
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Thanks!

But what's the difference between that one and the OEM unit that I already tried... which... BTW appears to have not been the problem?

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 Posted: Mon Oct 25th, 2010 09:34 pm
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KurtiusInterupptus

 

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no difference...i think appl.tech may have missed that you already tried the OEM relay

supco makes a hard start that allows you to use your run capacitor supco part#USRC10...you will need to reuse your existing overload.

has really detailed ,easy instruction with it but if you need help when you get it, post back.



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 Posted: Mon Oct 25th, 2010 11:19 pm
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Kendall
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I couldn't find a USRC10.  Is it fair to say you meant "URSC10?"

And that one is a 115V.  I was thinking my compressor was 230V for some reason.  I think it says 230V on my relay somewhere.   Does that matter... or are we're keeping the OEM relay and using 115V because we're wiring this new unit before the OEM relay?

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 Posted: Tue Oct 26th, 2010 01:35 am
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115v ..

it may say 220v on the Capacitor  :)



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 Posted: Tue Oct 26th, 2010 03:28 am
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KurtiusInterupptus

 

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yeah ,sorry .that's it.

sometimes i get lysdledtic...oops

also ,yes, you chuck the other relay...don't try to use both,  hold on to the overload ,though.

Last edited on Tue Oct 26th, 2010 03:30 am by KurtiusInterupptus



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 Posted: Tue Oct 26th, 2010 03:58 am
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Kendall
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Now that you mention it...

I was wondering how that would work... and where the transformer might be hiding.

Thanks!

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 Posted: Tue Oct 26th, 2010 04:01 am
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Kendall
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KurtiusInterupptus wrote: yeah ,sorry .that's it.

sometimes i get lysdledtic...oops

also ,yes, you chuck the other relay...don't try to use both,  hold on to the overload ,though.

Overload?  I thought they were all one part.

Well... you say the instructions will be explicit so... like you said... if I can't figure it out after reading the instructions... I'll be back to bug you some more.

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 Posted: Tue Oct 26th, 2010 11:55 am
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KurtiusInterupptus

 

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the URSC10 is not a 3-n-1 but basically a 2-n-1...different wiring configuration to accept your existing run capacitor requires you to re-use the old OL- sorry for the confusion



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 Posted: Tue Oct 26th, 2010 12:31 pm
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KurtiusInterupptus wrote:
no difference...i think appl.tech may have missed that you already tried the OEM relay

supco makes a hard start that allows you to use your run capacitor supco part#USRC10...you will need to reuse your existing overload.

has really detailed ,easy instruction with it but if you need help when you get it, post back.


Yep, sorry. My lack of caffiene musta had me in a stooper ;)



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 Posted: Tue Oct 26th, 2010 03:55 pm
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Supco has a variety of Hard Start kits available....From the ultimate Hard Start to a basic Hard Start...............If the compressor is " not long for this world" ..I would use the ( basic ) Hard Start Supco 3-N-1 part number RCO810 made for 1/12 to 1/5 H.P. compressors............ Just wire in the run cap. parallel on the WHITE and RED wires........... It is the start cap. that is what gets the compressor started.......Using a aftermarket over-load / relay is almost like using O.E.M equipment.........

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 Posted: Tue Oct 26th, 2010 07:19 pm
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Kendall
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KurtiusInterupptus wrote: the URSC10 is not a 3-n-1 but basically a 2-n-1...different wiring configuration to accept your existing run capacitor requires you to re-use the old OL- sorry for the confusion
No problem.

I can follow instructions.  Will they be explicit enough?

Here's the OEM replacement with run capacitor.  Does this have the overload in it?  Will this part remain when I wire in the URSC110?


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 Posted: Tue Oct 26th, 2010 07:20 pm
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Kendall
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appl.tech.29501 wrote: KurtiusInterupptus wrote:
no difference...i think appl.tech may have missed that you already tried the OEM relay

supco makes a hard start that allows you to use your run capacitor supco part#USRC10...you will need to reuse your existing overload.

has really detailed ,easy instruction with it but if you need help when you get it, post back.


Yep, sorry. My lack of caffiene musta had me in a stooper ;)

No problemo!

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 Posted: Tue Oct 26th, 2010 07:31 pm
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Kendall
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certified tech group 51 wrote: Supco has a variety of Hard Start kits available....From the ultimate Hard Start to a basic Hard Start...............If the compressor is " not long for this world" ..I would use the ( basic ) Hard Start Supco 3-N-1 part number RCO810 made for 1/12 to 1/5 H.P. compressors............ Just wire in the run cap. parallel on the WHITE and RED wires........... It is the start cap. that is what gets the compressor started.......Using a aftermarket over-load / relay is almost like using O.E.M equipment.........

Thanks!

I'm not sure how much life the compressor has, but it seems reasonably clear that the start windings are not what they once were.  Once the pump is started, it will run for hours until the thermostat shuts it down.  Then if the thermostat wants it back on fairly quickly, it won't start and will just continue the overload cycle.

I've got the fridge on a timer now.  1.5 hours on, 1/2 hour off.  15 minutes appears to not be enough of a break, but 1/2 hour seems to be.  It ran all evening through this morning in these 2 hour cycles with no, apparent trouble.

So let me see if I have this right...

Do I wire the run cap between the 3-n-1 and the 3 pins on the compressor or do I leave the old relay (picture above) or...?

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 Posted: Tue Oct 26th, 2010 10:20 pm
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KurtiusInterupptus

 

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i don't think that OEM has a OL you can bust out, so...

CTG has the best idea; get you a RCO810 and install the run cap in parallel with the red (run) and white (start).

the hard start will have 5 wires on it....2 blacks with no connectors on them; these are the hot and neutral. wirenut these to the incoming power to the compressor.

the other 3 wires have terminals that push on to the compressor terminals

common= black

run= red

start= white

to wire in the run cap...easiest to cut and wirenut a pigtail in the white and red wires, and connect those to your run cap (you will have to crimp on push-on connectors to the ends of the pigtails to connect to the cap)

hope i didnt confuse you more ...LOL



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