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3-in-1 for Amana ABD2533DES Fridge?  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Tue Oct 26th, 2010 10:21 pm
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KurtiusInterupptus

 

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appl.tech.29501 wrote: KurtiusInterupptus wrote:
no difference...i think appl.tech may have missed that you already tried the OEM relay

supco makes a hard start that allows you to use your run capacitor supco part#USRC10...you will need to reuse your existing overload.

has really detailed ,easy instruction with it but if you need help when you get it, post back.


Yep, sorry. My lack of caffiene musta had me in a stooper ;)

holy crap! to da awful waffle, Stat!!!



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 Posted: Tue Oct 26th, 2010 11:15 pm
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Kendall
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No, I think I got it now.  Run cap is clearly between the RCO810 and the pins on the pump.

If the unit comes with 3 female pin connectors, then I like the idea of the pigtail with female spade connectors, which saves said female pin connectors.

Thanks gang!

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 Posted: Wed Oct 27th, 2010 04:31 am
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kdog
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you could just ditch the run capacitor as it should start and run fine without it



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 Posted: Thu Oct 28th, 2010 12:13 am
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Kendall
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One shop in town has an HS810. He says it's the same thing, different brand for $29. Is he right? Should I grab it?

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 Posted: Thu Oct 28th, 2010 12:21 am
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it will work but its designed to used without your capacitor (as Kdog suggests) capacitor isn't necessary for the unit to work.



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 Posted: Thu Oct 28th, 2010 12:33 am
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Kendall
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Right.  I just figured that the run capacitor wouldn't hurt and might help during any drops in voltage from the local station.

But is this unit the same, exact thing as the Supco version?  Any difference in quality or ability?

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 Posted: Thu Oct 28th, 2010 12:34 am
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KurtiusInterupptus

 

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true, especially since you are limping along till you save up for a new refer

ditch it.



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 Posted: Thu Oct 28th, 2010 12:37 am
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Kendall
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Ditch what?  The run capacitor?  It doesn't cost me anything since after buying the 810, I'll have 2 good run capacitors sitting there gathering dust.

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 Posted: Thu Oct 28th, 2010 12:45 am
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KurtiusInterupptus

 

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it will work either way so,your call. not sure its worth the trouble since your unit is on its way out anyway...

and yeah, both of the 3-n-1's are the same....

and i have to say, if you had bought that combo at repairclinic.com, neither would be gathering dust, at your house anyway (insert shameless plug here);)



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 Posted: Thu Oct 28th, 2010 01:02 am
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Kendall
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Well.... both of my relays actually work because that was never the problem.

But now that I've been enlightened, I'll be sure to buy from repair clinic next time.  I would get the 810 there, but the wife is itchin' to get that big box out of the middle of her kitchen!

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 Posted: Fri Oct 29th, 2010 02:52 am
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Kendall
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No joy.

I wired in the 810.  The fridge fired up.  After about a minute I pulled the plug and then plugged it back in.  After 3 failed starts, I pulled the plug.

(side note:  I don't like how this one resets much more quickly than the OEM)

Is it possible that I switched the wires?  There were no markings.  I measured the resistance of the 3 pins.  Bottom two had the most at 7 something, so I figured these are the windings and the top is common.

The left to common had the second most at 4 something so I figured this the run.

The right to common had the least at 3 something, so I figured start.

I thought about reversing the red and white for a trial, but thought it might be wise to check with you guys first.

Also note that the configuration I used matched the one on the 810... but they were careful to call that an illustration only.

Your thoughts?

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 Posted: Fri Oct 29th, 2010 02:55 am
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You need to wait about 5 minutes after unplugging it before plugging back in................. P.S.  top is common= black .............lower right is red= run............lower left is white=start.............

Last edited on Fri Oct 29th, 2010 02:58 am by certified tech group 51

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 Posted: Fri Oct 29th, 2010 03:11 am
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Kendall
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certified tech group 51 wrote: You need to wait about 5 minutes after unplugging it before plugging back in................. P.S.  top is common= black .............lower right is red= run............lower left is white=start.............

(OK.  New pitcher warming up for the Rangers.)

I plugged it back in and it fired right back up.  Thanks!

Now the real test will be does it start the next time the thermostat wants it to.

Here's something else...

It definitely starts immediately, but it makes some noise for awhile and then fades slowly for about 30 seconds or maybe a little more... like it's building up pressure until it reaches the point that it's happy with.  It seemed like it was doing this for months before it stopped cooling.  I assumed it was the start windings going, but thought I should ask... could it be a loss in coolant?

I think I'll split the wires near the plug and pop my amprobe on it and report back... next commercial. 

BASE HIT!!!  "2 - Nothing, Giants!!!"

(I'm from Santa Cruz, BTW.  Hope none of my experts here are Texans!!!  :shock:)

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 Posted: Fri Oct 29th, 2010 03:27 am
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Kendall
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Never mind.  3 conductor cord is too small and thin to try and separate safely without being prepared to do a bunch of taping.  I'll have to get one of those splitters.

Fridge is running smoothly at present (knocked on wood.)  Hopefully I'll get a chance to hear it stop and restart before bedtime.

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 Posted: Fri Oct 29th, 2010 06:51 am
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kdog
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Kendall wrote:   I'll have to get one of those splitters.


 

You could just clamp the wire at the compressor



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 Posted: Fri Oct 29th, 2010 04:21 pm
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Kendall
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Oh yeah.  Duh.

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 Posted: Fri Oct 29th, 2010 04:26 pm
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Kendall
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My concern is now... will my laziness come back to bite me.  I didn't wire in the run capacitor.  It wouldn't be too terribly tough.  I'd be surprised if I didn't have the female spades in my shop.

But once the fridge is back in it's place, it's not easy to pull it back out... with the nice, hardwood floors and all.  And the floor in the fridge box actually buckled do to a washer leak a few years ago, which made a nice bump to try and climb it over.

So...

What say our Band-aid works for several years or so.  Will I NEVER need that run capacitor?

Funny thing is... the time it took to type this is probably about half of what it would have taken to wire the stupid run capacitor.

:?

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 Posted: Fri Oct 29th, 2010 05:29 pm
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kdog
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None of the compressors "need" the run capacitor, it is added to reduce the power factor of the running compressor and phases the start winings to reduce power consumption - if you want to add it, it goes in parallel with the start and run winding - by not using it will, in itself, a
have no ill effect on compressor.
You need to face the fact that you are already working with a compromised compressor that WILL fail again someday, but you have bought yourself some time to shop



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 Posted: Fri Oct 29th, 2010 06:02 pm
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Kendall
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kdog wrote: You need to face the fact that you are already working with a compromised compressor that WILL fail again someday, but you have bought yourself some time to shop
I've come to terms with that.  Current finances dictate no shopping.  I have 2 fridges in the garage.  Neither are stainless to match the rest of our appliances, but... oh well.  The best one is a side by side, which I hate, but the wife doesn't so I guess that's something.

I was thinking that the run capacitor was in parallel with the run winding lead and common.  If I decide to do it, guess I better verify before I do anything.

Thanks!

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 Posted: Fri Oct 29th, 2010 06:11 pm
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kdog
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You simply splice the run cap to the leads which go to the run and start windings, not the common



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