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GE Downdraft Vent Model JVB94SH1SS  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Thu Sep 30th, 2010 04:40 pm
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mrosec
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I have a GE Cooktop with Downdraft Vent Model JVB94SH1SS that is stuck in the up position.  The fan is working fine but the thing will not return to the down position.  I have it taken apart to the point that I can see the gear motor and control board.  Now I don't know how to proceed.  I am assuming I need to replace either the switch or the control board but am not sure how to determine which.  I have a multitester but was afraid of doing something wrong and ruining a perfectly good control board.  Thanks!!!

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 Posted: Fri Oct 1st, 2010 05:44 am
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Certain serial numbers had problems with the gear motor. Post your serial number and will look it up to see if yours is one of the included units.



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 Posted: Fri Oct 1st, 2010 04:47 pm
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mrosec
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Thanks!  The serial number is LH802335C.

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 Posted: Fri Oct 1st, 2010 10:13 pm
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Yep, yours is one of 'em. Here's the part link to the new gear motor...

http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?s=t-WB26X5101-%3d%3di254152&PartID=254152



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 Posted: Sat Oct 2nd, 2010 05:16 pm
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OK...I will order that part.  Thanks for the link!  That makes it easy!  Before I do that, I think I should mention a couple things because with your expertise, you will be able to tell me if I have something else going on.  

1)  There is absolutely no response when I push the raise/lower button.  No sound or sign that anything is even trying to work. 

2)  Right before this thing stopped working, it went crazy.  It was in the up position and after I pushed the button to lower it, it went down and then came back up and went down and up and down and up.....I had to unplug it to make it stop.  When I plugged it back in it was doing the same thing.  I waited for a day or two and when I plugged it back in it was up and would not lower.  I know, I should have unplugged it when it was down......hindsight!  But, on the other hand, since the fan still worked, I found myself glad it was stuck raised up.   

Anyway, I don't know if that is at all significant but thought I should mention it just in case.....if I need to order a part(s) other than the gear motor I can maybe get them coming at the same time.

Thanks!!!  

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 Posted: Sat Oct 2nd, 2010 06:32 pm
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may be just a bad Switch on the Gear Motor Box

are there some parts numbers on it ?

 



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 Posted: Sat Oct 2nd, 2010 07:58 pm
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No part numbers.  It just says "omron",  "made in Japan", "NC", "NO" and has the numbers 1,2 and 3.

I get a 0ohm reading on the gear motor.  Can I test the raise/lower limit switch?  Would I just test it for continuity? 

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 Posted: Sat Oct 2nd, 2010 08:16 pm
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mrosec wrote: I get a 0ohm reading on the gear motor.  Can I test the raise/lower limit switch?  Would I just test it for continuity? 

are you using a digital OHM meter on the 200 OHM scale ?


Can I test the raise/lower limit switch?  Would I just test it for continuity? 

if you can turn the Gear Motor so that it operates the Switch in both positions ..


No part numbers.  It just says "omron",  "made in Japan", "NC", "NO" and has the numbers 1,2 and 3. 

if you can remove it and check for numbers on the other side..

you could also then check continuity


Do you have a wiring diagram you could scan & upload ?



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 Posted: Sat Oct 2nd, 2010 09:14 pm
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Yes it is a digital multitester.  I tested at 20 and 200 OHMS and got a "0" on both. 

I turned the gear motor both directions and nothing happened.  Yesterday though I turned it in one direction and the vent returned to the down position.  I figured turning the motor had caused something to disengage and gravity had brought it down. 

I have the wiring diagram and have scanned it but am still somewhat technologically challenged and don't know how to upload. 

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 Posted: Sat Oct 2nd, 2010 09:30 pm
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grasshoppers can't upload here ...

upload it somewhere  http://www.imageshack.us/

then post the link here



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 Posted: Sat Oct 2nd, 2010 10:26 pm
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mrosec
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Got it!  I uploaded to ImageShack.  There was a "link" and "direct link" and I wasn't sure which would or would not work so here are both of them.

 

http://yfrog.com/msdowndraftwiringdiagramj

 

http://img820.imageshack.us/img820/2810/downdraftwiringdiagram.jpg

 

Thanks!

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 Posted: Sat Oct 2nd, 2010 10:57 pm
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If you hold the push the Button, the Motor should raise, then lower, contiuously.

The Limit Switch just makes it continue to the upper/lower position without holding the Button.

It would seem that the Control Board is bad.

You could test the Motor and Limit Switch by momentarily shorting across the Limit Switch (Black and Blue wires)

The Motor should run to the opposite limit (up or down).




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 Posted: Sun Oct 3rd, 2010 02:17 am
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Sorry for the delay in response.....had to take a kiddo to his baseball game. 

When I shorted the blue and black wires, the motor ran to the opposite limit.  So, if I am understanding correctly, this means my motor and limit swith is fine.  So now I need to consider the control board or is it possible the switch membrane has gone bad?  When I check for continuity on the control board along the lines everything seems to check out.  Is there a way for me to check the ribbon switch to make sure it hasn't shorted out or is that even a possibility?

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 Posted: Sun Oct 3rd, 2010 04:11 am
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If the Push Switch or Ribbon Cable was shorted, the Motor would run continuously.

click on picture



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 Posted: Sun Oct 3rd, 2010 04:16 am
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Nice shootin', Reg! :armed:



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 Posted: Sun Oct 3rd, 2010 04:13 pm
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mrosec
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So, the push switch is fine because the motor is not running continuously.  The motor and limit switch are good too because they worked when I shorted across the limit switch.  That just leaves the control board which I already have exposed and you already sent me the link to order!  How much easier can it get!?!  Thanks for your expert advice!  Can't wait to get the new control board in and have this thing working right!  I'll let you all know.

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 Posted: Sun Oct 10th, 2010 05:11 pm
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I received the new control board yesterday and installed it today.  I guess the control board wasn't what I needed because there is still no response from the downdraft vent.  Not sure what to do now.  We are hosting a Halloween party in two weeks so I have got to get this fixed!  I know you said the motor would run continuously if there was a short in the push switch or ribbon cable but is it possible for the motor to not run at all if there is a problem with them?  Thanks in advance for your help!!!  We are hosting a Halloween party in two weeks and I have got to get this fixed! 

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 Posted: Mon Oct 11th, 2010 01:00 am
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if the Push Switch is not working at all ..

did you test it ?

 



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 Posted: Mon Oct 11th, 2010 01:06 am
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mrosec
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No....I don't have it taken apart to that point and I think I misunderstood a prior post that it couldn't be the push switch.  Guess I will have to take the whole thing out entirely.  Do I just check for continuity?

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 Posted: Mon Oct 11th, 2010 03:05 am
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mrosec wrote: So, the push switch is fine because the motor is not running continuously....

so... the Push Switch is not shorted because the motor is not running continuously

Push Switch should have continuity while being pushed

can be tested at the wire connections at the Control Board


Any part ordered from RepairClinic can be returned in original condition
within 30 days for a refund (less shipping).



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