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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > Jenn-Air W181 Oven took a 20 minute vacation

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Jenn-Air W181 Oven took a 20 minute vacation  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Sun Aug 29th, 2010 09:58 pm
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Larbo
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My wife was running the self clean cycle and towards the end (I think) the oven shut off. Display made the descending buzzer tone consistent with a power failure. Display panel was blank and unresponsive (CPR did not help,:D), and the oven light did not work, either.  I checked the breaker (OK) and started this thread when it beeped itself back to life.

I reset the clock and everything looks good. What happened and should I worry?

Last edited on Sun Aug 29th, 2010 10:09 pm by Larbo

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 Posted: Sun Aug 29th, 2010 10:48 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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I can't find the wiring diagram for that model , but

It may have a Auto Re-set Thermal Overload ...

“My Rules”:

Rule #1) Don't ever use Self-Clean on any Oven.

Rule #2) If you're thinking about using Self-Clean, see rule #1.
Self-Clean uses nearly 1000F for 3 hours or more.  :burning:

That can wreak havoc on Electronic Controllers and Connections.


 



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 Posted: Sun Aug 29th, 2010 11:03 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Two-pole, ganged breaker-- Can't tell it's tripped by just looking at it. Need to use your meter and measure power supply voltage either at the terminal block on the range or at the outlet.

I PMed you the wiring diagrams.



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 Posted: Mon Aug 30th, 2010 12:42 am
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Larbo
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Thanks for the PM, Honorable Samurai San, and your ideas, RegUS_PatOff.  

First thing I did (when this first happened) was to fully reset the dbl pole breaker. No change. It took another 10 minutes for the panel to re-awaken indicating that it is some kind of internal problem.

I didn't see anything in the diagram that looked resetable. The thermostat does say "975 degF limit" and "600 degF lock", for what that is worth. Too bad the manual didn't have a logic schematic.

My wife has run a clean cycle 2x/year for the last 25 years and this is the first time this has happened.

Thanks a lot for the input.  I have attached the diagram for reference.

Attachment: JennAir W181 Pg2small.jpg (Downloaded 23 times)

Last edited on Mon Aug 30th, 2010 12:42 am by Larbo

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 Posted: Mon Aug 30th, 2010 01:00 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man wrote: I PMed you the wiring diagrams.
which link would that be ?



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 Posted: Mon Aug 30th, 2010 01:22 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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RegUS_PatOff wrote:
Samurai Appliance Repair Man wrote: I PMed you the wiring diagrams.
which link would that be ?


I PMed it to you. Haven't uploaded it to The Stash™ yet.



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 Posted: Mon Aug 30th, 2010 01:49 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man wrote: I PMed it to you. Haven't uploaded it to The Stash™ yet.
yes, got it, thanks ..

 

there's a 210F High Limit on the wiring diagram near the top, center

and a 600F Limit on the left near the bottom

probably doing their jobs ...



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 Posted: Mon Aug 30th, 2010 03:37 am
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Larbo,

By all means, check the breakers and limit switches first as recommended above. Based on your description I'm predicting the control board. If that turns out to be the case we can try to revive it for you if you like (it's obsolete). We rebuild a lot of obsolete controls, although I don't recall seeing this particular one yet, but it shouldn't be a problem.

Best Regards,
Bruce
http://www.fixyourboard.com

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 Posted: Mon Aug 30th, 2010 04:17 am
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Larbo
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RegUS_PatOff wrote: Samurai Appliance Repair Man wrote:
there's a 210F High Limit on the wiring diagram near the top, center

and a 600F Limit on the left near the bottom

probably doing their jobs ...



I saw those. Maybe I don't understand the functionality of limit switches as they both seem WAY under what would be typical "cleaning" mode temperatures.

I guess it could be the board. Don't know. I think I have a new board somewhere that I bought as a "just in case" part (and a t-stat, too).  I am leaning towards a limit switch but need to understand the disparity between a 1000 deg cleaning cycle and a 600 deg limit sw.

I also read in that link that a t-stat has a code that has to be input into the main board. Don't know if that happened many years ago when a new stat was installed (by a tech).  I will pull that oven and double check that.

Last edited on Mon Aug 30th, 2010 04:41 am by Larbo

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 Posted: Mon Aug 30th, 2010 09:39 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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Larbo wrote: ... Maybe I don't understand the functionality of limit switches as they both seem WAY under what would be typical "cleaning" mode temperatures....

depends where they are mounted ..

sometimes near the Electronic Controller, they don't want that area over 210F at any time

 



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 Posted: Mon Aug 30th, 2010 02:32 pm
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Larbo
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Can you tell if either of the limit switches would result in a total oven shut down if activated?

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 Posted: Mon Aug 30th, 2010 03:49 pm
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the 210F High Limit 



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 Posted: Mon Aug 30th, 2010 03:55 pm
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Larbo
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So, with that in mind, it would appear that either the thermostat has gone awry, triggering the 210F limit switch, or the limit switch has gone off-spec. Concur??

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 Posted: Mon Aug 30th, 2010 04:20 pm
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OR

the Oven Insulation has deteriorated and is allowing more heat to escape during operation.

 



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 Posted: Mon Aug 30th, 2010 04:26 pm
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Larbo
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Hmmm.... oven insulation:

1. Does it actually deteriorate? I thought that it would be some kind of inert mineral cloth.

2. Can it be visually inspected?

3. Is the 210F limit sw located by or on the display/control panel?

 

Thanks

Last edited on Mon Aug 30th, 2010 04:27 pm by Larbo

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 Posted: Mon Aug 30th, 2010 04:51 pm
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Larbo wrote: Hmmm.... oven insulation:

1. Does it actually deteriorate? I thought that it would be some kind of inert mineral cloth.

2. Can it be visually inspected?

3. Is the 210F limit sw located by or on the display/control panel?

1) not sure, but may have been wet/moist/collapsed at anytime or grease/fumes build-up, etc ..

2) maybe

3) not sure, but original replacement may no longer be available ..



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 Posted: Mon Aug 30th, 2010 05:09 pm
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Trying to help
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Don't forget the cooling fan limit, no fan = open limits on clean.  If fan not coming on, this old girl will kick in about 20-25 minutes into clean.  Don't worry about the programing of the rod and tube (tstat) to the board.  Your temps would be way off on baking and you would of called him back within the first few baking attempts after it's replacement.   



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 Posted: Tue Aug 31st, 2010 05:45 am
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Larbo
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Fan was definately working. and NOW she tells me that she now remembers that the oven has done this near the end of previous cleaning cycles! Maybe so, but it is the first I have seen it and it should not happen.... right?

Regarding the thermstat code, the oven has never been a very accurate oven. Maybe it is off, just not by a lot. If I pull out this bad boy, I can ck for the code along with possibly viewing the condition of the insulation. Maybe I should also take a look at the control panel compartment for visible issues.

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 Posted: Mon Aug 20th, 2012 12:01 am
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Larbo
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Well, it has been a while and never pulled the unit out of the wall. We just stopped using the Self Cleaning fucntion, as recommended.

I have had a very serious development with this oven. My daughter graduated a pastry and baking program and she is in fits with this oven's thermal inconsistency. A 350 degF setting can range from 320 to 370. Cake's are not setting up right, etc.

With the like new door seal not being a factor, what might be the cause of such variability. No beeps or error codes. The thermostat is mounted on the outside of the rear of the oven.  With this oven being 25+ years old (but it looks mahhh-velous!) and having fewer and fewer available parts, what should I look for?  Thank you.

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