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GE stove Model JGBP33WEH4WW  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Fri Nov 13th, 2009 03:41 pm
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TwoOlives
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Burners work; oven works; broiler doesn't work.  Ignitor still dark after a couple of minutes.

I checked the FAQ's but didn't see anything addressing the above.  Sorry if I missed one that would answer the problem. 

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 Posted: Fri Nov 13th, 2009 06:26 pm
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It could be a cracked Ignitor or a bad Oven Controller.

If you could measure the voltage (120v) across the Ignitor

or it's resistance ... about 400 OHMS cold .. anything less than infinity ...



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 Posted: Fri Nov 13th, 2009 09:06 pm
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TwoOlives
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I checked the picture of the ignitor and I can see two long wires. Can I reach these wires from the back of the oven and do a resistance test from there?

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 Posted: Fri Nov 13th, 2009 09:35 pm
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may be able to ..

or may be able to pull the wires & connection through, to the front ...



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 Posted: Sat Nov 14th, 2009 08:28 pm
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Hi,
Pulling the wires through won't work for me...the connector hung up on the hole and I couldn't see what I was dealing with. From the back, its much easier. I applied the multimeter and discovered that there is preactically no reading. The digitals fluctuate between .1 and .2. So, that means there's an open somewhere in the ignitor and any reading I'm getting is because my test leads are moving slightly? The ignitor looks brand new...on the other hand, the multimeter is new and no doubt giving me an honest reading. What d'ya think?

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 Posted: Sat Nov 14th, 2009 09:12 pm
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TwoOlives wrote: ... The digitals fluctuate between .1 and .2 ...
RegUS_PatOff wrote: If you could measure the voltage (120v) across the Ignitor

or it's resistance ... about 400 OHMS cold .. anything less than infinity ...





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 Posted: Sat Nov 14th, 2009 09:49 pm
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Okay,
Lemme see...I unplugged the connector and put the meter leads into each of the two holes leading to the ignitor's wiring. I set the meter on ohms and got the reading I indicated.

To measure the voltage across the ignitor I do what? The ignitor's leads are buried in the connector...should I unplug the ignitor and test the voltage coming to it?

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 Posted: Sat Nov 14th, 2009 09:57 pm
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TwoOlives wrote: ... I set the meter on ohms and got the reading I indicated.

To measure the voltage across the ignitor I do what? The ignitor's leads are buried in the connector...should I unplug the ignitor and test the voltage coming to it?


.1 to .2  what ?     k OHMS ?

digital or analog meter ...

but the reading would indicate that it's good ...

usually voltage reading should be taken with devices connected,

but in this case, you could try it with it disconnected.

Check the voltage across the Ignitor supply connector,

Also check supply voltage between each of the Ignitor supply connector wires and ground (a good chassis point)


OR, if you could carefully add a small wire to insert into the connector to measure the voltage while the Ignitor is connected ...
 

 



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 Posted: Sun Nov 15th, 2009 06:29 pm
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Good afternoon,  I have a digital meter. The .1 and .2 showed up when I was in the 2K ohm range. I was there because the ranges offered on my meter are 200 ohms and 2000 ohms and you indicated I could expect 400 ohms during a cold measurement. This time I disconnected the ignitor from the supply and measured the supply side within the 200V range. When I turned on the broiler I got 120.1/V sometimes 120.4/V from one side of the supply connector and ground, and zeroV from the other side of the connector to ground.  And, with the meter still in the 200V range, I put one lead in one side of the supply connector and the other lead into the other side. The voltage display indicated 120.1/ to 120.4/V

And with the meter still set to the 200V range, I connected a wire from one of the ignitor wires to the supply connector; and another wire from the second ignitor wire to one of the meter leads and the other lead to the second line in the supply connector. I'm thinking I connected the meter in series with the ignitor (looking for reassurance here). I turned on the broiler and there was no numerical reading except for zeros. Kinda expected that but did it anyway.

Last edited on Sun Nov 15th, 2009 06:32 pm by TwoOlives

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 Posted: Sun Nov 15th, 2009 07:24 pm
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Those readings in the (2) paragraphs somewhat contradict each other ...

With the voltmeter in series (normally for ammeter, current readings), you should have measured 120v...

With the Ignitor connected, see if you can use some wires to "extend" your probes,
and measure the voltage across the Ignitor, and then from each side to ground.

 



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 Posted: Sun Nov 15th, 2009 09:00 pm
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TwoOlives
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I'm not understanding "across the ignitor". If I extend the wires from the ignitor to the supply and then measure across each wire am I reading the "across" voltage or the supply?

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 Posted: Sun Nov 15th, 2009 09:06 pm
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TwoOlives wrote:
I'm not understanding "across the ignitor".

One meter lead on one of the ignitor leads. The other meter lead on the other ignitor lead. Ignitor still connected in the circuit. Usually have the sneak the meter probes into a wire nut connection. Alternatively, can make the measurement at electrically equivalent locations on the ERC.



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 Posted: Sun Nov 15th, 2009 10:33 pm
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ERC??   And sneak??

Last edited on Sun Nov 15th, 2009 10:34 pm by TwoOlives

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 Posted: Mon Nov 16th, 2009 12:34 am
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TwoOlives wrote: ERC??   And sneak??

he meant that it will be a little hard to get the meter leads into the ignitor connections and the electronic control.

 

 

 



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 Posted: Mon Nov 16th, 2009 02:40 am
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TwoOlives wrote: I'm not understanding "across the ignitor". If I extend the wires from the ignitor to the supply and then measure across each wire am I reading the "across" voltage or the supply?
No, not extend the wires from the Ignitor to supply,

Connect the Ignitor normally.

Add wires to your meter probes to get into the Connector



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 Posted: Mon Nov 16th, 2009 09:27 pm
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TwoOlives
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Ok, did the deed. With the wires in position and the broiler switch off, there was no display on the meter. With the broiler switch on, I read 120V. I do believe I'm reading the supply side. I unhooked the wiring and reran the cold ohm test on the ignitor and there was no numerical display on the meter. I ran a continuity test on the ignitor and there was no reading. So, current is being applied to the ignitor and it isn't glowing. Sound like an open to me. What have I missed?

Last edited on Mon Nov 16th, 2009 09:28 pm by TwoOlives

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 Posted: Tue Nov 17th, 2009 11:49 am
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Who uses broil??

Anyway, you have a bad igniter my friend.
Part# WB2X9154

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 Posted: Fri Nov 20th, 2009 06:33 pm
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Ok...the ignitor from the RepairClinic arrived yesterday and I installed it.  Yep, broiler works just fine.  Thank you all very much for your info and quick replies.

My wife is a great cook.  The broiler is used on shish-ka-bobs, steaks, skewered shrimp, and often used to bake a crust on cassarole dishes and other dishes.  Yeah, I have an outdoor grill but its so much better when she does the cooking.

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