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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > GE Profile refrigerator TPX24PPDA |
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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > GE Profile refrigerator TPX24PPDA |
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| Moderated by: RegUS_PatOff, Pegi, appl.tech.29501 |
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| GE Profile refrigerator TPX24PPDA | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Tue Oct 13th, 2009 06:00 pm |
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1st Post |
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gazzerp Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Depressing the water dispenser causes water to flow as expected, but also into the ice maker. This happens regardless of the position of the ice maker "arm" and, as a result, is causing a royal, frozen mess all over my grub. Can you help me diagnose the problem? I tried finding a service manual online but, as one thread said, GE manuals are hard to acquire. Many thanks.
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| Posted: Wed Oct 14th, 2009 01:51 am |
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2nd Post |
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vee8power Buckaroo Banzai Appliantologist
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I believe that one has a triple water valve. The valve the water arrives at first will supply the other two with water when energized. For the water to go anywhere, one of the others must be energized also- either the icemaker valve or the water dispenser valve. It could be that the icemaker valve is stuck open. To test for that, dis-connect the wires from the icemaker valve(the one whose tube leads to the icemaker). Pour yourself some water out of the dispenser and see if water comes into the icemaker. If it does, then the icemaker valve is open without any current running to it. If it doesn't, then current isprobably being applied to the icemaker valve along with the dispenser valve when you ask for water. There are some wires crossed. Get out your meter.
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| Posted: Wed Oct 14th, 2009 06:15 pm |
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3rd Post |
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gazzerp Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Okay, here's what found: There are two valve assemblies, one that sends water up to the filter (#1) and the other (#2) to the icemaker and water dispenser. Each has a blue valve (a) and a brown valve (b.) For Assembly #2, Valve "a" is the water dispenser and Valve "b" the icemaker. I first disconnected the electrical connection to Valve "b" on Assembly # 2 (the icemaker.) I called for water through the door and water continued to flow into the icemaker. I next disconnected all four electrical connections and performed the following tests : Test 1: Continuity across the valve posts (no power to refrigerator): Assembly #1 / Valve "a" > no continuity; Valve "b" > continuity Assembly #2 / Valve "a" > no continuity; Valve "b" > continuity Test 2: Voltage across connector terminals (no power to refrigerator): Assembly #1 / Valve "a" > .00vac; Valve "b" > .01vac Assembly #2 / Valve "a" > .00vac; Valve "b" > .017vac Test 3: Voltage across connector terminals (power to refrigerator): Assembly #1 / Valve "a" > .024vac; Valve "b" > 18.9vac Assembly #2 / Valve "a" > .024vac; Valve "b" > 19.1vac Test 4: Voltage across connector terminals (power to refrigerator; water dispenser calling for water): Assembly #1 / Valve "a" > 120vac; Valve "b" > 24.3vac Assembly #2 / Valve "a" > 120vac; Valve "b" > 23.7vac I have no test result for the scenario where the icemaker is calling for water but, if the above data is inconclusive (as to the source of the problem) then I can listen for it, and try to get readings while it's in operation. I assume, though, that when calling for water under normal operation, the icemaker valve terminal should also show 120vac? Furthermore, if you would have expected Test #1 to have shown no continuity across its terminals then I won't be surprised if you tell me that the problem is, indeed, that the valve is physically "stuck." Note that I did give the valve body a few taps with a screwdriver, to see if it might "release" - but, no doing. Also, I think that the "crossed wires" theory must be ruled-out as the part has never previously been touched/tampered with. Thanks
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| Posted: Wed Oct 14th, 2009 06:20 pm |
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4th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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I don't have any service info for the TPX series ... can you scan & upload the wiring diagram for that model ? vee8power wrote: I believe that one has a triple water valve.... # 795 # 798 # 799 
____________________ RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” (also in HQ) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA Upon leaving this Earth "Do you want the Smoking or Non-Smoking section ?" |
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| Posted: Thu Oct 15th, 2009 12:18 pm |
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5th Post |
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vee8power Buckaroo Banzai Appliantologist
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My guess is that the brown valve on assy.#2 is stuck open. Try disconnecting any solenoid that passes water to the icemaker(both browns?) and dispense water. A gushing icemaker would confirm this. According to the part diagram, you can order each valve pair seperately or both together. I don't have a wiring diagram if I'm who regUS is asking.
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| Posted: Thu Oct 15th, 2009 06:20 pm |
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6th Post |
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gazzerp Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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I've attached the wiring diagram as requested. Thanks, Gary Attachment: tpx24ppdacc.gif (Downloaded 46 times)
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| Posted: Fri Oct 16th, 2009 01:00 am |
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7th Post |
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vee8power Buckaroo Banzai Appliantologist
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This test you did says it all for me: I first disconnected the electrical connection to Valve "b" on Assembly # 2 (the icemaker.) I called for water through the door and water continued to flow into the icemaker. If there's no other way for the water to get to the icemaker besides through this valve, the only explanation is that this valve is open without any voltage being applied to it.
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| Posted: Fri Oct 16th, 2009 05:54 pm |
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8th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Has this worked OK up till now ? OR is this a new installation and/or recently been moved ?
____________________ RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” (also in HQ) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA Upon leaving this Earth "Do you want the Smoking or Non-Smoking section ?" |
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| Posted: Fri Oct 16th, 2009 06:54 pm |
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9th Post |
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gazzerp Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Other than having recently replaced the icemaker line, as well as the in-and-out to the water filter, the fridge has performed without incident since I purchased it in 2000. It's clear that Valve "b" (brown) on Assembly #2 is stuck "open." What remains unclear to me, though, is "why." Is it because the valve is physically stuck open or, is it because the fridge is erroneously sending current (or not, depending on whether under normal operation the solenoid is NO or NC...) If that's the case, then perhaps it's not the valve that's the problem but some other "sending" component. For all I know, pressing the water dispenser may send a signal to a microchip and that's the part that's messed-up. Instead of sending current to just the water dispenser valve, it's also sending it to the icemaker. Thanks
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| Posted: Fri Oct 16th, 2009 07:06 pm |
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10th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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I'd imagine it's normally closed... you wouldn't want water flowing when the power goes out .. disconnect it and see if the water still flows ..
____________________ RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” (also in HQ) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA Upon leaving this Earth "Do you want the Smoking or Non-Smoking section ?" |
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| Posted: Fri Oct 16th, 2009 07:40 pm |
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11th Post |
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gazzerp Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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I had disconnected it; that was my first test, before I then took my multimeter to hand. When I tested for continuity across each of the valves, I saw different results for Valve "a" and Valve "b" on Assembly #2. Assembly #1 appears to control water moving into and out of the filter - regardless of whether it's called for by the water dispenser or the icemaker. Thus, I deduce that the job of Valve "a" and "b" on Assembly #2 is to concurrently open when water is being called for. I agree that it makes sense for both valves to be physically closed when idle. What I don't know, however, is whether whether I should expect to have continuity across a valve when it is idle. All I do know, is that in my first electrical test, #1, I found that Valve "a" (the water dispenser) had no continuity, yet Valve "b" had continuity. I think it would make sense that I should have expected both to have been the same, correct? If that's the case, then given that I observed this disparity with the power off, perhaps I've just now ruled-out the possibility that the icemaker valve could be receiving "rogue" current (from another malfunctioning component) and that my problem is, indeed, solely that the valve is physically stuck in the open position? Thanks.
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| Posted: Fri Oct 16th, 2009 11:45 pm |
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12th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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all the Valves should have some OHMS read the OHMS value (not continuity)
____________________ RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” (also in HQ) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA Upon leaving this Earth "Do you want the Smoking or Non-Smoking section ?" |
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| Posted: Sat Oct 17th, 2009 01:57 pm |
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13th Post |
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gazzerp Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Good morning, RegUS_PatOff: Ohm readings, as requested: Assembly #1 Valve "a" (blue): 324 Valve "b" (brown): 187 Assembly #2 Valve "a" (blue): 336 Valve "b" (brown): 191 The readings were taken after the power had been disconnected for about 10 minutes. When I first attempted the task, my meter was "all over the place" (within reason.) The reading quietened down after about 10 minutes so, I assume one has to wait? (For what? curiosity has me...) I see that you're online right now... I shall be near my fridge this morning but will then be away from home for a week or more. I'll look at my email frequently to see if there's anything else you'd like me to check; hopefully, we can reach an outcome and I can use the time I'll be away to order the necessary part(s). Many thanks, Gary
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| Posted: Sat Oct 17th, 2009 04:07 pm |
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14th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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gazzerp wrote: ... The readings were taken after the power had been disconnected for about 10 minutes. When I first attempted the task, my meter was "all over the place" (within reason.) The reading quietened down after about 10 minutes so, I assume one has to wait? (For what? curiosity has me...) OHM readings may be OK, Id' have to check when I get back ... "all over the place" could be residual voltages from some capacitors on the Control Boards .. When checking resistance, should always disconnect item if there's any electronics connected to it.
____________________ RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” (also in HQ) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA Upon leaving this Earth "Do you want the Smoking or Non-Smoking section ?" |
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| Posted: Sat Oct 17th, 2009 04:15 pm |
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15th Post |
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denrayr Sublime Master of Appliantology 
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you are overcomplicating things. read vee8powers post #7, this simple test proves the valve is stuck open
____________________ RedRock Appliance Service 435-773-7838 http://www.redrockrepair.com Serving St George and Southern Utah |
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