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jmatthias
Apprentice Appliantologist
| Joined: | Sun Oct 5th, 2008 |
| Location: | Denver, USA |
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| Flavorite Brew: | guiness |
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Posted: Mon Oct 6th, 2008 01:19 |
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Hey there! We have a Fisher Paykel DD602. No idea how old it is because we didn't put it in. Life was good, and we love the drawers, but at some point we started getting a leak on the bottom drawer while running it. Since there are only two of us, we started just using the top until I had a chance to look at it. And then my wife pulled a big No No and opened it while it was still in its cycle without hitting the PAUSE button. Ever since then, the top drawer has not run right.
It runs for part of the cycle. It starts filling and then quits and gives a bunch of fault lights that are not described in the owner's manual.
I pulled the front panel, replaced the plastic pins and ran the thing. It is leaking pretty seriously around the top seal. Do the 602s have a similar lid actuator to the 603 that i've read about? How do I put it into diagnostic where I can test those motors? Is this in a repair manual? How do I get one?
I'm not worried about repairing the lower drawer yet. I just need something to work so I can stop washing dishes by hand. It's driving me nuts. Thanks!
Jeffrey
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RegUS_PatOff
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
| Joined: | Sat Sep 24th, 2005 |
| Location: | Milwaukee, Wisconsin USA |
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Posted: Mon Oct 6th, 2008 04:18 |
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manuals sent ..
good luck ...
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jmatthias
Apprentice Appliantologist
| Joined: | Sun Oct 5th, 2008 |
| Location: | Denver, USA |
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Posted: Tue Oct 7th, 2008 05:25 |
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Man. 5 months I've been washing dished because I couldn't find a repair manual. Both drawers are up and running happily. My wife and I are so happy we could cry. Thanks,
Jeffrey
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RegUS_PatOff
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Posted: Tue Oct 7th, 2008 05:31 |
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AccApp
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
| Joined: | Sat Jun 3rd, 2006 |
| Location: | Eatontown, New Jersey USA |
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Posted: Tue Oct 7th, 2008 15:21 |
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| Tell us what you had to do, I love hearing about other people fixing 602's.
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"When you have eliminated all which is impossible, then whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth." Sir Arthur Conan Doyle.
http://www.fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm
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gcoffee
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| Joined: | Tue Oct 21st, 2008 |
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Posted: Wed Oct 22nd, 2008 02:56 |
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Last edited on Wed Oct 22nd, 2008 03:35 by gcoffee
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RegUS_PatOff
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Posted: Wed Oct 22nd, 2008 03:20 |
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gcoffee wrote: can you please send a service manual and diagram manual to ...... at cox dot net
manuals sent
you could now delete your email address ...
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RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw
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objr0@yahoo.com
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| Joined: | Mon Sep 8th, 2008 |
| Location: | Santa Cruz, California USA |
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Posted: Sun Nov 16th, 2008 03:48 |
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I am seeing a similar leak problem on my DD602. I recently pulled out the top drawer and replaced a broken limit switch. After reinstalling the drawer I could not get it to seat properly. After running the drawer a few times, it finally seated into place all on its own.
However, a few weeks later it started leaking around the seal. I am thinking that perhaps the seal came under undue pressure because the drawer was not properly seated and it broke.
Could someone please send me the service manual? I do not feel confident about removing the seal as I have not been able to find any instructions.
Thanks,
Orlando
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RegUS_PatOff
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Posted: Sun Nov 16th, 2008 04:05 |
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is your username the same as your email address ? (not a good idea)
manuals sent
Last edited on Sun Nov 16th, 2008 04:10 by RegUS_PatOff
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objr0@yahoo.com
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Sun Nov 16th, 2008 04:09 |
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RegUS_PatOff wrote:
is your email address the same as your username ? (not a good idea)
Yes it is, should I ask the Samurai to change it? 
Orlando
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RegUS_PatOff
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
| Joined: | Sat Sep 24th, 2005 |
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Posted: Sun Nov 16th, 2008 04:11 |
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| not unless you like a lot of spam from email robots that scour the web for such names...
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After leaving this Earth "Do you want the Smoking or Non-Smoking section ?"
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objr0@yahoo.com
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Posted: Tue Nov 18th, 2008 22:50 |
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Thanks for the manuals. Using the diagnostics mode I was able to verify that the seal was not inflating. I have successfully removed the drawer and verified that the seal is damaged. F&P wants US$35 for the part, which seems a bit excessive, but I am willing to pay if I can complete the repair myself.
I was able to unhook the lid assembly and drop it into the cabinet, but could not get it out, as it appears to get stuck in the front chassis. Do I need to remove part of the chassis to achieve this?
It was easy enough to remove the seal with the lid assembly inside the cabinet, however installing the new one will be difficult unless I can get the lid assembly out. Any tips you can offer would be greatly appreciated.
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RegUS_PatOff
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
| Joined: | Sat Sep 24th, 2005 |
| Location: | Milwaukee, Wisconsin USA |
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Posted: Wed Nov 19th, 2008 04:46 |
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objr0@yahoo.com wrote: ... the seal is damaged. F&P wants US$35 for the part ...
Lid Seal 525878 ?
Sears wants $50 (-20% code) + shipping
(I don't know the other answers)
from http://www.coastalappliances.com/hintsandtips.htm
The older 602 model:
These appliances used an inflatable tubular seal (PN 525878) that goes around the perimeter of the wash tub. An exhaust valve closes, and an air pump inflates the seal. When the wash concludes, the exhaust valve opens and the seal deflates. This system was an excellent way of sealing the tub during the wash process. Unfortunately, many consumers were damaging the seal by accidentally nicking it when the drawer was shut. So the engineers came up with a different method of sealing, and hence the model 603.
Solution: Be sure that nothing going into the drawer is higher than the drawer rim. This way there's very little chance of nicking the seal.
Another problem with these units was the drain hose (PN 527137) repeatedly flexing at the "knee" joint behind the drawer. Eventually it would split and cause a leak. It’s a repair which is best left to a professional. Also if the unit is a double drawer model, save some time and aggravation by repairing both top and bottom drain hoses together.
The 603:
The 603 uses a drop-down lid to seal the wash tub. Two motors on the sides of each drawer drive jackscrews, raising and lowering the lid onto the wash tub. Early models used a motor that was relatively unprotected against the effects of moisture. You can tell the early motors by their white plastic case. As moisture corroded the motor windings, motor torque would diminish. Ergo; diminished ability to seal the wash tub. A new design (with help from BMW) with a completely sealed case resolved this issue. Another problem was the link support between the chassis and drawer. The original link was white plastic and prone to snapping in the middle, causing an eventual F1 error or leak. Fisher & Paykel redesigned the link support to an all metal design that resolved this problem once and for all. Last edited on Wed Nov 19th, 2008 04:56 by RegUS_PatOff
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