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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > Lids not shutting on Fisher and Paykel DD602 -also, repair manual request |
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| Lids not shutting on Fisher and Paykel DD602 -also, repair manual request | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Sun Oct 5th, 2008 09:19 pm |
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1st Post |
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jmatthias Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Hey there! We have a Fisher Paykel DD602. No idea how old it is because we didn't put it in. Life was good, and we love the drawers, but at some point we started getting a leak on the bottom drawer while running it. Since there are only two of us, we started just using the top until I had a chance to look at it. And then my wife pulled a big No No and opened it while it was still in its cycle without hitting the PAUSE button. Ever since then, the top drawer has not run right. It runs for part of the cycle. It starts filling and then quits and gives a bunch of fault lights that are not described in the owner's manual. I pulled the front panel, replaced the plastic pins and ran the thing. It is leaking pretty seriously around the top seal. Do the 602s have a similar lid actuator to the 603 that i've read about? How do I put it into diagnostic where I can test those motors? Is this in a repair manual? How do I get one? I'm not worried about repairing the lower drawer yet. I just need something to work so I can stop washing dishes by hand. It's driving me nuts. Thanks! Jeffrey
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| Posted: Mon Oct 6th, 2008 12:18 am |
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2nd Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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manuals sent .. good luck ... 
____________________ RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” (also in HQ) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA Upon leaving this Earth "Do you want the Smoking or Non-Smoking section ?" |
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| Posted: Tue Oct 7th, 2008 01:25 am |
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3rd Post |
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jmatthias Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Man. 5 months I've been washing dished because I couldn't find a repair manual. Both drawers are up and running happily. My wife and I are so happy we could cry. Thanks, Jeffrey
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| Posted: Tue Oct 7th, 2008 01:31 am |
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4th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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____________________ RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” (also in HQ) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA Upon leaving this Earth "Do you want the Smoking or Non-Smoking section ?" |
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| Posted: Tue Oct 7th, 2008 11:21 am |
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5th Post |
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AccApp Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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Tell us what you had to do, I love hearing about other people fixing 602's.
____________________ "When you have eliminated all which is impossible, then whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth." Sir Arthur Conan Doyle. http://www.fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm |
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| Posted: Tue Oct 21st, 2008 10:56 pm |
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6th Post |
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gcoffee Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Last edited on Tue Oct 21st, 2008 11:35 pm by gcoffee |
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| Posted: Tue Oct 21st, 2008 11:20 pm |
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7th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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gcoffee wrote: can you please send a service manual and diagram manual to ...... at cox dot net manuals sent you could now delete your email address ...
____________________ RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” (also in HQ) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA Upon leaving this Earth "Do you want the Smoking or Non-Smoking section ?" |
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| Posted: Sat Nov 15th, 2008 11:48 pm |
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8th Post |
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objr0@yahoo.com Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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I am seeing a similar leak problem on my DD602. I recently pulled out the top drawer and replaced a broken limit switch. After reinstalling the drawer I could not get it to seat properly. After running the drawer a few times, it finally seated into place all on its own. However, a few weeks later it started leaking around the seal. I am thinking that perhaps the seal came under undue pressure because the drawer was not properly seated and it broke. Could someone please send me the service manual? I do not feel confident about removing the seal as I have not been able to find any instructions. Thanks, Orlando
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| Posted: Sun Nov 16th, 2008 12:05 am |
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9th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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is your username the same as your email address ? (not a good idea) manuals sent Last edited on Sun Nov 16th, 2008 12:10 am by RegUS_PatOff ____________________ RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” (also in HQ) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA Upon leaving this Earth "Do you want the Smoking or Non-Smoking section ?" |
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| Posted: Sun Nov 16th, 2008 12:09 am |
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10th Post |
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objr0@yahoo.com Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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RegUS_PatOff wrote:is your email address the same as your username ? (not a good idea) Yes it is, should I ask the Samurai to change it?  Orlando
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| Posted: Sun Nov 16th, 2008 12:11 am |
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11th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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not unless you like a lot of spam from email robots that scour the web for such names...
____________________ RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” (also in HQ) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA Upon leaving this Earth "Do you want the Smoking or Non-Smoking section ?" |
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| Posted: Tue Nov 18th, 2008 06:50 pm |
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12th Post |
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objr0@yahoo.com Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Thanks for the manuals. Using the diagnostics mode I was able to verify that the seal was not inflating. I have successfully removed the drawer and verified that the seal is damaged. F&P wants US$35 for the part, which seems a bit excessive, but I am willing to pay if I can complete the repair myself. I was able to unhook the lid assembly and drop it into the cabinet, but could not get it out, as it appears to get stuck in the front chassis. Do I need to remove part of the chassis to achieve this? It was easy enough to remove the seal with the lid assembly inside the cabinet, however installing the new one will be difficult unless I can get the lid assembly out. Any tips you can offer would be greatly appreciated.
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| Posted: Wed Nov 19th, 2008 12:46 am |
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13th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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objr0@yahoo.com wrote: ... the seal is damaged. F&P wants US$35 for the part ... Lid Seal 525878 ? Sears wants $50 (-20% code) + shipping (I don't know the other answers) from http://www.coastalappliances.com/hintsandtips.htm The older 602 model: These appliances used an inflatable tubular seal (PN 525878) that goes around the perimeter of the wash tub. An exhaust valve closes, and an air pump inflates the seal. When the wash concludes, the exhaust valve opens and the seal deflates. This system was an excellent way of sealing the tub during the wash process. Unfortunately, many consumers were damaging the seal by accidentally nicking it when the drawer was shut. So the engineers came up with a different method of sealing, and hence the model 603. Solution: Be sure that nothing going into the drawer is higher than the drawer rim. This way there's very little chance of nicking the seal. Another problem with these units was the drain hose (PN 527137) repeatedly flexing at the "knee" joint behind the drawer. Eventually it would split and cause a leak. It’s a repair which is best left to a professional. Also if the unit is a double drawer model, save some time and aggravation by repairing both top and bottom drain hoses together. The 603: The 603 uses a drop-down lid to seal the wash tub. Two motors on the sides of each drawer drive jackscrews, raising and lowering the lid onto the wash tub. Early models used a motor that was relatively unprotected against the effects of moisture. You can tell the early motors by their white plastic case. As moisture corroded the motor windings, motor torque would diminish. Ergo; diminished ability to seal the wash tub. A new design (with help from BMW) with a completely sealed case resolved this issue. Another problem was the link support between the chassis and drawer. The original link was white plastic and prone to snapping in the middle, causing an eventual F1 error or leak. Fisher & Paykel redesigned the link support to an all metal design that resolved this problem once and for all. Last edited on Wed Nov 19th, 2008 12:56 am by RegUS_PatOff ____________________ RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” (also in HQ) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA Upon leaving this Earth "Do you want the Smoking or Non-Smoking section ?" |
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| Posted: Mon Dec 1st, 2008 11:44 pm |
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14th Post |
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lovemyF&P Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Hi there, i have a 602 and recently the impeller must have started to burr, and it appears as though little pieces of the blue plastic have found their way down into to the bearing.....there is a serious grinding noise coming from the bearing when i run it in diagnostic mode, in fact sometimes it stops altogether. So i have 3 questions: 1. can you please send me the service manual and 2. can you tell me how i go about removing and replacing the bearing unit....so i have to remove the motor through the bottom of the drawer and the rotor/bearing unit. 3. what is the part i am looking for to make the replacement, where and how much (i see that the parts site you link to does not carry F&P). Its a great unit, no problems in 4 years except the odd self inflicted flood easily corrected by drying out the unit with wet and dry vacuum and a blowdrier....but this is altogether 'serious sounding'. Thank you, Sam
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| Posted: Mon Dec 1st, 2008 11:50 pm |
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15th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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1) send me your email address ... 2) maybe in the manual 3) find name or part number in manual and try that in parts box above OR http://www.searspartsdirect.com/
____________________ RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” (also in HQ) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA Upon leaving this Earth "Do you want the Smoking or Non-Smoking section ?" |
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| Posted: Mon Dec 15th, 2008 10:43 pm |
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16th Post |
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PApicella Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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I am having trouble with one of the air pumps in the 602 - it appears weak and cannot blow up even a new seal. I notice you described someone replacing the connector and seeing green on the contacts (oxidized copper, I bet). I have that, too. If I clean the contacts, do you think it will work better. If so, what should I use to do that. If not, do you have the repair manual and/or a part numbers? I have been able to keep my drawers going for more than 7 years by fixing the occasional seal and drain pipe leaks. Although the dishdrawer does have some design flaws which I understand are fixed in newer models, as long as I can get parts, it should last for years to come. - Pete
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| Posted: Sun Dec 21st, 2008 11:29 am |
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17th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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(I must have missed this post)  manuals sent.. I'm not an F&P expert, maybe one of the other Masters could answer.
____________________ RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” (also in HQ) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA Upon leaving this Earth "Do you want the Smoking or Non-Smoking section ?" |
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| Posted: Sat Jan 24th, 2009 11:59 pm |
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18th Post |
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jmatthias Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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I'm sorry it took so long to follow up. The DD602 doesn't lower the lid down like (I believe) the newer models do. It has a seal that is essentially a long air bellows that runs the whole perimeter of the drawer. When the cycle starts, the first thing that happens is that a little air pump (1 for each drawer) fills the seal which expands down to the top of the drawer, creating a seal. Once I had decent documentation, I put it in diagnostic mode and ran each function separately. Despite the fact that I could hear the pump running, the seal did not fill up. I disassembled the drawer, told the dishwasher to close the valve for that seal and blew into the tube with good old lung power. Had the valve been closed, I would have had resistance. There was none. Turning everything off, I pulled the valve out. When I did, I saw some of the pretty green corrosion on the power plug for the valve. I clean it up and voila! Thanks for the support guys. It's been several months and the thing is still running great! Jeffrey
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| Posted: Sun Jan 25th, 2009 09:13 pm |
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19th Post |
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heynowjerry Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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need manual please Top drawer is leaking. Can't find the source. Drain is not clogged. However the clip on the end of the drain that holds the small reddish brown gasket cracked off, so I assume i may need to take the opp to replace the entire drain line. Do i have to take out the whole unit from the counter to replace this drain line? Thanks in advance.
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| Posted: Sun Jan 25th, 2009 09:24 pm |
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20th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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for the DD602 ? if I had you email address, I could send them to you ...
____________________ RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” (also in HQ) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA Upon leaving this Earth "Do you want the Smoking or Non-Smoking section ?" |
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