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Milwpacker Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Sun Oct 5th, 2008 23:29 |
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Hi, Everything I have been reading in the forums seems to be the oppposite of whats happening to my frig.
Seems the defrost in the freezer won't shut off and everything thaws completely and water pours out the bottom. Took the back panel off, no frost buildup anywhere on it. Fan runs in the freezer compartment but the compressor doesn't.
Please help me........
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology

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Posted: Mon Oct 6th, 2008 00:05 |
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What are the temperatures in the Fridge & Freezer ?
Does the Compressor ever run ?
Last edited on Mon Oct 6th, 2008 00:05 by RegUS_PatOff
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Milwpacker Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Mon Oct 6th, 2008 00:42 |
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Compressor ran yesterday when I cleaned the dust out.... Wasn't hot either. Won't come on now though. The fan next to it and the evaporator fan inside freezer is running, thats it.
Unplugged unit as temperature was so warm and had to remove food.
Just plugged it back in. Is there any kind of reset button. Where do I start now.
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology

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Posted: Mon Oct 6th, 2008 00:53 |
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RegUS_PatOff wrote:
What are the temperatures in the Fridge & Freezer ?
And those temperatures were...?
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Milwpacker Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Mon Oct 6th, 2008 00:59 |
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60 frig 60 freezer
Compressor not even trying to run... its stone cold.
Is there a reset somewhere?
Last edited on Mon Oct 6th, 2008 01:52 by Milwpacker
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology

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Posted: Mon Oct 6th, 2008 03:56 |
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GE_Refrig_Board.pdf 
Check for 120v AC voltage at the Compressor Terminal J8 (Black Wire) of the Main Board
Last edited on Mon Oct 6th, 2008 04:00 by RegUS_PatOff
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Milwpacker Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Wed Oct 8th, 2008 04:03 |
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| Okay, lets see if I did this right. On the motherboard there is a plastic connection box with access above it I assume allows me to check the power. There are three wires listed - line - dfrst - comp. When I put a wire tester on the one marked line and one of the others it lights up. So I assume I have power to the compressor and also power to the defrost system. Is that correct?
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denrayr Sublime Master of Appliantology
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Posted: Wed Oct 8th, 2008 07:39 |
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| no it means you dont have power there. you are measuring a voltage differential 120 at line and 0 at compressor. if you had power at the comrpessor terminal you would have 120 at line and 120 at compressor, no differential it would show no voltage. try again from ground to the terminal marked compressor, im sure you will find no power.
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Milwpacker Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Wed Oct 8th, 2008 20:28 |
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Okay, I have included picture of connector I'm working with that is attached to the motherboard.
I attach one wire of tester to ground and then attach the other lead to the extended access blade to each of the following and...
- when attached to Line - no light (far right) green
- when attached to dfrst - get a light (middle) blue
- when attached to comp - get a light (far left) black
What does this mean?
I have read where GE has replaced a lot of motherboards but I don't see my model listed. Could this model may be included? Refrigerator is not that old.
Attachment: refrig 004.jpg (Downloaded 22 times) Last edited on Wed Oct 8th, 2008 20:29 by Milwpacker
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology

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Posted: Wed Oct 8th, 2008 20:51 |
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Milwpacker wrote: ... I attach one wire of tester to ground and then attach the other lead to the extended access blade to each of the following and...
- when attached to Line - no light (far right) green
- when attached to dfrst - get a light (middle) blue
- when attached to comp - get a light (far left) black
What does this mean? ...
this means two things...
1) Your outlet wiring is reversed
2) The Controller Board may be badLast edited on Wed Oct 8th, 2008 20:54 by RegUS_PatOff
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denrayr Sublime Master of Appliantology
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Posted: Wed Oct 8th, 2008 21:52 |
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| correct the polarity at the outlet (switch black and white wires) before condeming the board. sometimes control boards dont work properly with reversed polarity.
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Milwpacker Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Wed Oct 8th, 2008 22:48 |
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| Why would it have changed? The frig worked before on the same outlet.
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denrayr Sublime Master of Appliantology
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Posted: Wed Oct 8th, 2008 23:08 |
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| the outlet was probably always wire backwards. it probably wont fix the fridge but needs to be addressed. It would make sense to fix the polarity before replacing the board so you can re-test your voltages.
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Milwpacker Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Sat Oct 11th, 2008 00:48 |
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Call me a beginner as I guess I was using the wrong tool. I was using a two wire voltage tester with the little light and was told I should be using a ohm meter. Is that correct?
Can someone help with this frig...
I need to make sure the compressor is shot and its not the motherboard that is screwed up.. Someone else told me it could be the theromostat timer.
How do I test these things???
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology

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Posted: Sat Oct 11th, 2008 01:05 |
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Milwpacker wrote: ... I guess I was using the wrong tool. I was using a two wire voltage tester with the little light and was told I should be using a ohm meter. Is that correct?
... How do I test these things???
You were using the right tool...at this time...
If you temporarily connect the LINE to COMP, the compressor should run.
You can use the OHM meter later for some other tests...
The Defrost Thermostat may be bad, letting the Defrost Heater stay on too long.
You could check that later, with an OHM meter when it reaches a certain temperature...
click on picture
 Last edited on Sat Oct 11th, 2008 01:24 by RegUS_PatOff
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Milwpacker Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Sat Oct 11th, 2008 02:09 |
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The compressor is finally running. What would be the problem then... the motherboard?
It's only been running for a few minutes.... so I plan to leave it on for awhile and make sure it cools. Is that a problem?
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology

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Posted: Sat Oct 11th, 2008 02:18 |
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That should be OK...
normal operation is about 1 hour ON, 2 hours OFF, but that's after it gets to about normal temepratures...
It could be a bad MotherBoard, Temperature Sensor, or maybe a few other things...
I have the Service Manual that has some Keypad operated tests that I could email to you,
(or I could probably walk it over)
Last edited on Sat Oct 11th, 2008 02:21 by RegUS_PatOff
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Milwpacker Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Sat Oct 11th, 2008 02:25 |
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Why... is this someone that knows my user name?
I live close to 91st & Mill Rd
Where are you?
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology

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Posted: Sat Oct 11th, 2008 02:29 |
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I thought I might be close.. with your user name & favorite brew, but no...
I'm in Oak Creek ...
Last edited on Sat Oct 11th, 2008 02:29 by RegUS_PatOff
____________________ RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw
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Milwpacker Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Sat Oct 11th, 2008 02:49 |
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What do you mean by Keypad operated tests ??
I don't have any equipment to use.
But at least I now know I can cancel Mondays appointment to have the compressor looked at. The sealed system is under warranty still, but thats it. Everything else would be charged for.
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