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sanzan
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Sun Oct 5th, 2008 00:51 |
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Dead as a doornail, I suspect. Unit will not turn on any lights, make any sounds, or do ANYTHING at all.
Husband checked fuse, door latches, etc., for power. All good, except for one of the little metal things on the circuit board which does not have a name listed on the chart. All of the named items appear ok.
DW is a 2000 or 2001 model, and about a 14 months after install, the little white push button on the touchpad for "normal wash" fell off, revealing the part below, but worked fine until last night. There's a bit of water in the bottom.
Depending on where you look, new control board is 100-200 bucks. Am I better off getting a new DW? Price listed at Whirlpool site shows current model which is similar for about $429, listed as a best buy. If I need to replace, would it be better to pay a couple hundred dollars more for the tall tub, which looks a little sturdier?
I'd rather keep this one going right now, if it's not foolish to do so, but then, it was not a top quality machine to begin with.
Thanks.
Sandy in Savannah
Last edited on Sun Oct 5th, 2008 00:53 by sanzan
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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Posted: Sun Oct 5th, 2008 01:28 |
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| Probably just a blown thermal fuse (item 6). Easy to check (continuity measurement), just as easy to replace.
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RegUS_PatOff
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Posted: Sun Oct 5th, 2008 01:44 |
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| just as easy to replace Last edited on Sun Oct 5th, 2008 01:45 by RegUS_PatOff
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Posted: Sun Oct 5th, 2008 01:47 |
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I love how you can ferret out those references, Reg! 
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sanzan
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Sun Oct 5th, 2008 04:36 |
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I saw him check it. The needle went all the way over to the side. So, unless we have totally confused the thermal fuse on that picture, it's not the problem. It's the little white thing with the two blue wires attached, right?
Last edited on Sun Oct 5th, 2008 04:38 by sanzan
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Posted: Sun Oct 5th, 2008 12:21 |
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sanzan wrote:
I saw him check it. The needle went all the way over to the side. So, unless we have totally confused the thermal fuse on that picture, it's not the problem. It's the little white thing with the two blue wires attached, right?
That be the one. Sounds like he was reading continuity, can't tell for sure from here, though.
Did he already check the wires nuts in the power junction box, too?
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sanzan
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Sun Oct 5th, 2008 13:39 |
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I didn't see him check the power junction box, but I'll ask when he wakes up. It's Sunday morning. 
Where does the thermal fuse connect on the other end? I see one end is attached to the control panel, but it is not attached to anything else at the moment. Still working on the machine.
Thanks!
Sandy
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sanzan
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Posted: Sun Oct 5th, 2008 20:16 |
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Okay, we've got continuity on the TCO and attached it back to the control board and the dispenser. We've got continuity on the door switches. We have a diode on the control panel that doesn't get any 'juice', bu it isn't one which is named on any tech sheet or document that we can find, so maybe it isn't important?
This is driving me crazy. What do we check next? All connections seem tight and power is good at every junction we can find. Thanks for the help!
I really don't want to call a repair person. We called one once under warranty from Whirlpool (whirlpool insisted it had to be a company THEY sent and set an appointment), and the guy charged a couple of hundred dollars to check it out PLUS more to replace a part that wasn't the problem and that was not under warranty. Come to find out from you guys that the real problem was something else, once we started checking for ourselves, and was fixable by us. I returned the part he replaced (when the old one was fine) and demanded the money back. I'm not paying somebody else to just replace pieces until he gets lucky. I could've bought a new dishwasher for that!
Sandy
Last edited on Sun Oct 5th, 2008 20:19 by sanzan
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RegUS_PatOff
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Posted: Sun Oct 5th, 2008 20:20 |
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| You may have to check voltage (carefully) while the dishwasher is powered.
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sanzan
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Posted: Mon Oct 6th, 2008 01:02 |
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Sorry for misleading you.  Husband can't read these tech sheet diagrams, and I was too stupid to check behind him. I finally did check, and we made a discovery.
The white thing he checked (with blue wires) is NOT the TCO. It is the wiring harness to the dispenser. If I understand correctly, the thermal fuse is a large white thing which affixes to a different place on the edge of the control panel. I watched him do the continuity check for that piece, and there is ZERO continuity. I'll be at our local appliance parts place (less than a mile from my house) in the morning for that piece.
However the link you and the samurai gave shows a different parts number and replacement kit from what I have pulled up on the samurai's parts site. I don't understand why I need to cut off the existing harness wires when my part number 826913(not 8193761) just snaps off and on. Can you explain, please? I'm so confused!
Thanks bunches.
Sandy in Savannah
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RegUS_PatOff
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Posted: Mon Oct 6th, 2008 04:05 |
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Just make sure you get the TCO with the Wiring Kit.
The Wires and Connector in the Kit are needed beacuse the original Connectors usually become tarnished and over-heated (bad conections) and can cause the new TCO Fuse to blow from the heat from the bad connections.
Last edited on Mon Oct 6th, 2008 04:08 by RegUS_PatOff
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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Posted: Mon Oct 6th, 2008 04:36 |
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Part link to the TCO kit:
http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=959376
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sanzan
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Posted: Mon Oct 6th, 2008 13:22 |
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Thanks. It looks like the there is a plug on the end, too, so do I really need to strip the wires and reconnect? Or is there a place to plug in?
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RegUS_PatOff
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Posted: Mon Oct 6th, 2008 13:53 |
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| is there a connector about 6" away from the TCO as in the replacement pictured ?
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sanzan
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Posted: Tue Oct 7th, 2008 02:26 |
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Yes, now that I have had the parts in my possession, I could tell that the connector is there to take the place of "splicing and soldering", which is what I thought I needed to do. This is easier, but I don't know if it is as good as soldering. It's done now, and the dishwasher is working!
Hallelujah! And only a few manual dishwashings. My hands may actually recover. (I use super-hot water and bleach in the rinse, and didn't bother with gloves -- I won't repeat THAT!)
The Samurai and friends rock! Another successful repair. 
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RegUS_PatOff
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Posted: Tue Oct 7th, 2008 02:44 |
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sanzan wrote: Yes, now that I have had the parts in my possession, I could tell that the connector is there to take the place of "splicing and soldering", which is what I thought I needed to do....
as shown in the above manual link: " just as easy "
Last edited on Tue Oct 7th, 2008 02:45 by RegUS_PatOff
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sanzan
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Posted: Tue Oct 7th, 2008 12:42 |
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Yep, you said it. I had just never seen that, having always soldered, and just could not understand that it actually "made" the connection secure. I guess I'll be convinced if it holds over time, lol! Still seems strange.
Does the Samurai get some money if you order parts through the RepairClinic link? I'm thinking that the next time parts are not 'in stock locally' at my store down the street, I'd order from him. I mean, if you have to wait for a part, I'd rather this site benefit financially, you know? It's been such a help.
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RegUS_PatOff
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Posted: Tue Oct 7th, 2008 17:13 |
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sanzan wrote: ...Does the Samurai get some money if you order parts through the RepairClinic link? ..
yes, it helps support the board.
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sanzan
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Posted: Wed Oct 8th, 2008 00:53 |
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Thanks for answering. That's great to know. If I have to order, I'd rather it support this board. For about eighteen dollars, I saved an expensive service call! And this is the SECOND time you guys have helped me!
Thanks again for everything. This is a wonderful service.
Sandy in Savannah
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