Whirlpool Gold Gas Range GW395LEPB02 - The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum - Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help

The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums Home

Not logged in - Login | Register

The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > Whirlpool Gold Gas Range GW395LEPB02

Appliance Parts
850,000 Parts (Including Sears-Kenmore)- 70,000 Photos! Return any part for any reason. Appliance repair parts and accessories shipped overnight.

Appliance Breakdown Diagrams
Cool, interactive diagrams that show you how your appliances are put together. A great troubleshooting aid!

Appliance Accessories
Specialty tools for appliance repair, service manuals, water filters, cleaners, and tons of other accessories for all your appliances.

Whirlpool Gold Gas Range GW395LEPB02

Moderated by: Trying to help, Pegi, hvacdrd, AccApp

New Topic

Author

Post

logcabin
Apprentice Appliantologist

Joined:	Wed Oct 1st, 2008
Location:
Posts:	12
Flavorite Brew:	heinliken
Status:	Offline

Posted: Thu Oct 2nd, 2008 04:25

Quote

Hi - my oven does not heat up. I realize that there is plenty o' good info to get started on but what seems odd is that both the broiler and oven won't light.

Fan goes on for both the broiler and oven - neither light. No gas smell - maybe - hard to tell sometimes - mind starts to play tricks with senses.

love the site.

thanks,
Peter

logcabin
Apprentice Appliantologist

Joined:	Wed Oct 1st, 2008
Location:
Posts:	12
Flavorite Brew:	heinliken
Status:	Offline

Posted: Thu Oct 2nd, 2008 19:27

Quote

Here is my second round of reasoning just before I go out and buy a multilmeter.

The oven burner does not light. Nothing significant happens. I press 'cancel' for about 5 seconds and get a 'beep' (lockout perhaps after bake burner fails).

I try the broiler. Does not work. But I do hear two loud 'click-like' noises coming from gas distribution valve.

If I understand correctly - whether I ask the baker or the broiler to work - both ignition systems should fire. Is this correct?

Are the ignition systems in this range different - direct spark??
I understand that I should test/measure the amperage but are the amperage reference points different for the Whirlpool ignition system??

"On round ignitors, look for a current draw of 2.6 to 2.8 amps. On flat ignitors, look for 3.2 to 3.6 amps. Low current draw will not allow the gas valve to open."

Do these figures relate to my crappy gas whirlpool range?

thanks,
peter

RegUS_PatOff
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology

Joined:	Sat Sep 24th, 2005
Location:	Milwaukee, Wisconsin USA
Posts:	3862
Flavorite Brew:	A & W in a frosted mug
Status:	Online

Posted: Thu Oct 2nd, 2008 21:09

Quote

You don't have "glow ignitors", you have "spark" igniters.

No way to measure "current draw"

Has this oven been working up till now at this location ?

GW395LEPB02 Tech Sheets

Whirlpool Gas Range w/ Direct Spark

Last edited on Thu Oct 2nd, 2008 21:26 by RegUS_PatOff

____________________
RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

my “Easter Seals Walk With Me” video production http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA

After leaving this Earth "Do you want the Smoking or Non-Smoking section ?"

logcabin
Apprentice Appliantologist

Joined:	Wed Oct 1st, 2008
Location:
Posts:	12
Flavorite Brew:	heinliken
Status:	Offline

Posted: Thu Oct 2nd, 2008 21:42

Quote

Thanks - the oven has been working, in the same location, for a couple of years - since purchased new (didn't quite work right when it was new - different issue with top burners).

Nothing has really changed since it was setup.

peter

logcabin
Apprentice Appliantologist

Joined:	Wed Oct 1st, 2008
Location:
Posts:	12
Flavorite Brew:	heinliken
Status:	Offline

Posted: Thu Oct 2nd, 2008 22:05

Quote

Should mention that although the oven does not ignite - the fan does come on.

RegUS_PatOff
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology

Joined:	Sat Sep 24th, 2005
Location:	Milwaukee, Wisconsin USA
Posts:	3862
Flavorite Brew:	A & W in a frosted mug
Status:	Online

Posted: Thu Oct 2nd, 2008 22:15

Quote

it may be time to buy a meter. Some under $20.

If you have a Harbor Freight Store near you,

they have this one, normally $ 4.99,

but sometimes on sale for $ 2.09 w/battery till 10/04/08
print sale page and take to store

click on picture

Last edited on Thu Oct 2nd, 2008 22:19 by RegUS_PatOff

logcabin
Apprentice Appliantologist

Joined:	Wed Oct 1st, 2008
Location:
Posts:	12
Flavorite Brew:	heinliken
Status:	Offline

Posted: Thu Oct 2nd, 2008 23:01

Quote

A friend just dropped one off.

logcabin
Apprentice Appliantologist

Joined:	Wed Oct 1st, 2008
Location:
Posts:	12
Flavorite Brew:	heinliken
Status:	Offline

Posted: Thu Oct 2nd, 2008 23:56

Quote

I looked at the tech sheet. I tested the solenoid valves for 216 ohms worth of resistance.
On the digital multimeter the reading jumped around the 200ohm level for the broiler and for the bake I got a reading of 1 on the meter.

I have not tested anything else as the tech sheet seemed to present the solenoids as the first thing to check - and they were easy enough to get at.

With what appears to be a busted bake solenoid should I continue testing anything else or is it a done deal - replace the solenoid?

I realize that if one does not work the other won't as well - those 2 loud clicks I heard when trying to start the broiler may have been the solenoids shutting??
If the solenoids won't work does this then arrest the ignition??

If I replace the solenoid (the whole gas distribution valve unit I imagine) is there a danger of having it crap out again as a result of an underlying problem?

Or do I just go ahead and replace the unit?

Or do I do more testing? If so what should be tested next?

Thanks very much - the assistance is of great benefit to my family. Maybe we'll be able to eat pizza - hot pizza - again one day.

peter

RegUS_PatOff
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology

Joined:	Sat Sep 24th, 2005
Location:	Milwaukee, Wisconsin USA
Posts:	3862
Flavorite Brew:	A & W in a frosted mug
Status:	Online

Posted: Fri Oct 3rd, 2008 03:01

Quote

a reading of "1" is not good.

double check to see if you have the right connections and try another reading (with Solenoid wires disconnected)

If it still reads "1", the DSI Controller may also be bad.

logcabin
Apprentice Appliantologist

Joined:	Wed Oct 1st, 2008
Location:
Posts:	12
Flavorite Brew:	heinliken
Status:	Offline

Posted: Fri Oct 3rd, 2008 05:02

Quote

Thanks - I did disconnect the power and the leads. I also repeated the readings quite a few times.

Now I will try to figure out how to test the DSI controller - after I figure out what the DSI controller is. I think it is the spark ignition controller. I think I have the procedure in the tech sheet/pdf you passed along.

Thanks again - I will post results or any trouble I am having diagnosing.

logcabin
Apprentice Appliantologist

Joined:	Wed Oct 1st, 2008
Location:
Posts:	12
Flavorite Brew:	heinliken
Status:	Offline

Posted: Fri Oct 3rd, 2008 16:17

Quote

I was just rereading the "dsi_manual" and came across this:

If the cooktop spark is working correctly,
the DSI control is most likely okay, and the
problem is somewhere else in the range.

My cooktop does spark - is still worth the time to check the dsi controls?

If so - since it is the 'bake' solenoid that appears bad can I actually check voltage at the dsi control?? oven goes to lockout mode when 'bake' or 'broil' is initiated as solenoid fails the 'self-test' - would I be able to get a reading?

What causes a solenoid to go bad?

RegUS_PatOff
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology

Joined:	Sat Sep 24th, 2005
Location:	Milwaukee, Wisconsin USA
Posts:	3862
Flavorite Brew:	A & W in a frosted mug
Status:	Online

Posted: Fri Oct 3rd, 2008 16:51

Quote

The DSI Spark Module could be OK.

The Solenoid definitely sounds bad.

A new Solenoid won't hurt the DSI Module (anymore than if it is).

logcabin
Apprentice Appliantologist

Joined:	Wed Oct 1st, 2008
Location:
Posts:	12
Flavorite Brew:	heinliken
Status:	Offline

Posted: Fri Oct 3rd, 2008 17:03

Quote

will a bad dsi module hurt a new solenoid? do solenoids just fail? is there the possibility that the dsi module sent too much voltage and cooked the solenoid?

can I just replace the solenoids within the gas regulator?

RegUS_PatOff
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology

Joined:	Sat Sep 24th, 2005
Location:	Milwaukee, Wisconsin USA
Posts:	3862
Flavorite Brew:	A & W in a frosted mug
Status:	Online

Posted: Fri Oct 3rd, 2008 17:46

Quote

... I'm not sure,yet...... I'll be back later...

Last edited on Fri Oct 3rd, 2008 17:49 by RegUS_PatOff

logcabin
Apprentice Appliantologist

Joined:	Wed Oct 1st, 2008
Location:
Posts:	12
Flavorite Brew:	heinliken
Status:	Offline

Posted: Sat Oct 4th, 2008 00:04

Quote

Hi Again,

I followed the flow chart on page 24 of the dsi manual for diagnosis of improper bake cycle.

I got at the dsi module (lots of fun with a slide-in range).
AC voltages for bake and broiler all good at 125V.

I measured the resistances again, both at the regulator and on the dsi board.

Broiler gave a reading of 200ohm at both the DSI module and the regulator.
Bake gave a reading of 1 at both locations.

As resitances are the same at the valve and at the dsi module the flowchart says to replace the valve/regulator.

I went on to the next step anyway to see if I could get readings for the DC voltage that triggers the solenoids.

The solenoid voltages were harder to measure as I believe the bake solenoid is fried so oven goes into lock-out mode. My wife graciously started the broil setting while I had the leads on the dsi module on #2 and #3 - got a nice reading of 18V for a second before lock-out mode (busted solenoid).

With bake cycle started and the DC leads on #1 and #2 I got a reading of 57VDC.

The flowchart says that if the voltage is higher than 18VDC to then check the main wiring harness for bad connections - which I could not ascertain one way or the other - connections did seem solid enough.

So - If I follow the flowchart and replace the valve is there the danger that the dsi module will send a higher DC voltage to the new bake solenoid and fry it too??

Or can the solenoid withstand 57 volts DC?? Maybe this is what did it in over the past couple of years???

Or is this high reading due to the lockout mode i.e. the 57VDC may actually drop down to 18VDC given some extra time????

Anyway - that's enough info.

summary - replace the valve for sure, but what about the dsi module?? 57VDC too much for the solenoid or is this a false reading because of the lock-out mode?? Or is there something I am missing with the wiring harness/connections?

peter

RegUS_PatOff
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology

Joined:	Sat Sep 24th, 2005
Location:	Milwaukee, Wisconsin USA
Posts:	3862
Flavorite Brew:	A & W in a frosted mug
Status:	Online

Posted: Sat Oct 4th, 2008 00:57

Quote

If you could substitute a 200 OHM 2w resistor (or 2x100 OHM 1w in series) for each Solenoid, and then measure the voltage.

Last edited on Sat Oct 4th, 2008 00:58 by RegUS_PatOff

logcabin
Apprentice Appliantologist

Joined:	Wed Oct 1st, 2008
Location:
Posts:	12
Flavorite Brew:	heinliken
Status:	Offline

Posted: Sat Oct 4th, 2008 01:24

Quote

I will try this tomorrow - thanks.
peter

logcabin
Apprentice Appliantologist

Joined:	Wed Oct 1st, 2008
Location:
Posts:	12
Flavorite Brew:	heinliken
Status:	Offline

Posted: Thu Oct 9th, 2008 19:50

Quote

well I did not try it - I just replaced the gas valve / with integrated solenoid.

all is working great - many thanks for your help.
sorry I'm a bit late in posting back - fix one thing - onto another.

I did retest the voltage from the spark control - looks good - both bake and broil are getting 10VDC when the applicable setting is activated. when the unit lights the voltages really jumped (1400VDC for bake and 500VDC for broil), but only for a split second.

the cost for the new valve was about $150 CDN.

again all is working well - for now anyway - many thanks.

Peter

Current time is 16:38

The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > Whirlpool Gold Gas Range GW395LEPB02

Use the Search, Lurch!
We have a bizillion pages of specific appliance repair questions and answers here just aching for the furtive caress of your engorged eyeballs. Use this search box to find ‘em.

Find Parts Fast!
Search by part number or model number for best results.
If you don't know your model number - try searching by appliance type, brand or part type.

Appliance FAQs | Find Appliance Parts | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Home

Your Sometimes-Lucid Host:

"If I can't help you fix your appliance and make you 100% satisfied, I will come to your home and slice open my belly, spilling my steaming entrails onto your floor."