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Maytag MDB9100 Not Working  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Sun Apr 13th, 2008 02:08 am
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sahallie
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Hello all. I have a Maytag dishwasher Model MDB9100AWW (yes, I used a flashlight). Ok. Here is the problem....

1. Start dishwasher as normal.

2. Fills with water.

3. Does nothing else. (makes wife unhappy)

Check ususal stuff. All good. Not sure what to do next besides offer to dry. Did I mention this makes my wife unhappy.

Only other clues...

1. Water in bottom of dishwashser (checked for ususal drain problems).

2. The "Clean" arrow flashes and...

3. The "Light Rnse" light flashes.

I would be extremely grateful for any direction. Fixing this problem would make my wife happy again and all would be right with the world.

Thank you in advance.

Dave

PS Almost forgot. If my dishwasher had not broke, I would not have found this site, and I would not have seen that my dishwasher was recalled in 2007, and my house could have burned down, and...that would have made my wife REALLY unhappy:?

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 Posted: Sun Apr 13th, 2008 08:37 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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There's a service bulletin out on these dishwashers and it may apply to yours-- post the serial number and I'll be able to tell. The service upgrade replaces the inner door panel and the wiring harness to protect the wiring from rinse aid drippage.

You can go ahead and remove the inner door panel and see if it's been leaking. See the pics in the attachment.

Attachment: maytag-dw-rinse-aid-dispenser-photos.pdf (Downloaded 7 times)



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 Posted: Sun Apr 13th, 2008 08:37 am
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Trying to help
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The Clean and Light Rinse buttons blinking together mean the unit has detected a fault.  I believe yours is low current sensed.  The information is listed on your schematic behind the kick-plate.  The selections are numbered 1-7 with 1 being the selection just to the right of the window.  What number would Light Rinse be??  If it is Keypad 2, then your fault is low current sensed.  You would want to ohm your motor from the board down to see if it reads correctly.  You should have a connector on the board that has a White,, Red, Gray and Yellow.  You will also want to find another connector that has an Orange and Blue.  Pull these off and let them hang in the air.  The tests you will want to do are:

Blue to Gray- 7 ohms
Blue to Red- 7 ohms
Blue to Yellow- 3 ohms

If your checks come up correct, and your voltage to the unit is a constant 120VAC +or- 10% then your board is bad.  If one or more of your tests comes up incorrect, you will want to ohm the motor directly using the same test points listed above.  If any of the tests fail to read within specs again (usually open completely) then your motor is bad.  If it ohms correctly at the motor, but not from the board down, then the Harness is open.   


Motor
http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=752320

Board
http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=940548

 



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 Posted: Sun Apr 13th, 2008 09:27 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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The tech diagnostic sheet should be behind the lower front panel, behind the insulation..

Last edited on Sun Apr 13th, 2008 09:28 am by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Sun Apr 13th, 2008 06:51 pm
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sahallie
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Thanks to all for the help!

My serial number is

10433102WS.

I did take the front cover off and all was well in the leakage department. No gunk to speak of.

Next, I confirmed that it is keypad 2 that is blinking...and it is. I found the diagnostic sheet right where you all said it would be. I ran the autodiag and it stoped at keypad 2 blinking.

Next, I found the mainboard connections and ran the resistance test. Based on the information that Trying To Help gave, it apperars to be the mainboard. Results are as follows:

Blue to Gray- 6.7 ohms
Blue to Red- 6.7 ohms
Blue to Yellow- 2.6 ohms

Voltage to the unit is a robust 124. +/-2

So, I guess it is the board? FWIW, there are 2 areas on the board that are a burnt orange color and it kinda smells like that fried electrical smell that we all know and love so well.

What do you think? Should I get a board?? Looks like I have a slightly used one to sell LOL.

Thanks again for the help. I took the top off the motor to clear all the mysterious stuff that accumaulates in the bottom of a dishwasher. Yuck. I hope I remember how it goes back together. At least I know a place where I can come for help.

 

Dave


 

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 Posted: Sun Apr 13th, 2008 07:25 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Sublime Master TTH nailed this one: come git you a new control board.



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 Posted: Wed Apr 16th, 2008 10:57 am
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sahallie
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
 

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Used the Samurai's part link. Part arrived yesterday, a genuine maytag replacement part and a good price even with the overnight shipping. 10 minutes to install and all is well. Works great!

Thanks again. :D

Dave

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 Posted: Wed Apr 16th, 2008 11:02 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology


Joined: Mon Mar 21st, 2005
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Way to go, Idaho!  :party::rockband::rocker:



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