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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > GE side-by-side model# GSL25FPA BS - Help! |
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| GE side-by-side model# GSL25FPA BS - Help! | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Wed Jan 16th, 2008 12:19 pm |
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1st Post |
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ladylaz Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Hello, We inherited a stainless GE side-by-side model# GSL25FPA BS with a house we purchased. Represented age: 4 years. This unit has a never-attached ice maker and is surrounded by wood cabinetry such that only about a third of it protrudes forward to afford it the "thirteen inches" of clearance the serial plate says it requires on the sides. It has the required inch on top and behind, but just barely. After 4 years the fridge warmed up, the defrost continued to run with the controls "off" (until unplugged), and an ice jam near the top of the coils stopped the fridge fan's flow. After disassembly discovered dust-laden compressor fan and a hot compressor, fridge was cleaned and put back into operation. Four weeks of quiet/perfect performance hence coils needed defreezing. This has repeated twice. Pattern on coils indicates frost on all coils and ice jam forming from middle to top of coils all the way accrossand slightly thicker on the fridge side (defrost heater working non-stop unable to terminate job). Should we buy/install a thermistor for the defroster and see what happens, or a new Whirlpool? Unfortunately, this seems to be a standard size fridge, and we have a sinking feeling it is the enclosed clearance accelerating failure (there is no way to add space..why does this fridge state it needs so much SIDE clearance and does this mostly count toward the rear of the unit where the mechanics operate?). Advice needed! Can post pics if desired. Everything in this fridge looks pristine. PS Probably unrelated: we live in a sutropical climate and this icing has happened the only times it has gotten unusually cold this winter (thus in the house at night as well)...perhaps adding to some sensor confusion/sticking?
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| Posted: Wed Jan 16th, 2008 12:42 pm |
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2nd Post |
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Tridewebsr Master Appliantologist
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It sounds as if the electronic main board is defective, part #1194711
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| Posted: Wed Jan 16th, 2008 12:42 pm |
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3rd Post |
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Tridewebsr Master Appliantologist
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It sounds as if the electronic main board is defective, part #1194711
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| Posted: Wed Jan 16th, 2008 12:59 pm |
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4th Post |
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ladylaz Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Here's a pic: Attachment: icingPattern2.jpg (Downloaded 196 times)
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| Posted: Wed Jan 16th, 2008 04:04 pm |
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5th Post |
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Poobah Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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make sure of continuity of the heater, if good (ok)...next replace the thermistor wr55x10025....this is what controls the heater to come on and go off (kicks out at 70ish degrees)....I encountered one with the same problem and posted about it another thread on Jan 10....the thermistor is letting it go out of defrost too soon, hence leaving frostiness and ice on the upper coils.....completely thaw down and install new thermistor and monitor...this should take care of your problem If you ever have to order your parts do it from Repair clinic and if you should ever purchase anything that doesn't fix your problem you may return it less S&H....makes things really easy when working with the Muthaboards and the like (which are know menaces).....good luck Last edited on Sat Jan 19th, 2008 01:19 am by ____________________ This is the DAY that the LORD has made, REJOICE and be glad in it..... |
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| Posted: Wed Jan 16th, 2008 04:07 pm |
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6th Post |
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Poobah Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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I re-read your post again, and make sure the compressor area is clean and clear from lint, dirt, etc....and the fan down by the compressor is working ok....I am going to assume it is because you said it worked good for about 3-4 weeks
____________________ This is the DAY that the LORD has made, REJOICE and be glad in it..... |
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| Posted: Wed Jan 16th, 2008 05:35 pm |
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7th Post |
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ladylaz Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Thanks so much for the help - especially the detailed responses from Poobah - we will try what you suggest! P.S. I guess this means that we shouldn't be worried about the lack of side clearance, particularly towards the back?
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| Posted: Wed Jan 16th, 2008 09:32 pm |
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8th Post |
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Poobah Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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I have seen them stuffed back in holes with no gaps around them....set in place and then trim boards put up against them to make them completely flush.....some people can have that kind of luck, not me....I like alittle room around them or at least some overhead...the main thing is to make sure the cond. coils stay clean....pet haie is a killer..
____________________ This is the DAY that the LORD has made, REJOICE and be glad in it..... |
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| Posted: Mon Feb 4th, 2008 05:51 pm |
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9th Post |
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ladylaz Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Today I installed the GE replacement thermistor. It had some green bands instead of the red ones on the older bullet-shaped model. I had expected some sort of screw-termainated splice connection since this replacement part simply ended with bare copper wire. When I looked for one I found the old thermistor went directly into a plug in the freezer wall. When I extracted this plug and pulled back its rubber boot it was obvious the old thermistor was "hard-wired in" to this plug...the copper wire clearly was crimped ot soldered into metal termination plugs inside the boot, which communicated with the other side of the plug, as did about seven other wires in the same square boot. Did I get the wrong part? I guess not, and that a splice was in order, but wondered about increasing the length and resistance, even the sensitivity of the circuit. But how else was I supposed to do it? Forcing the metal tips out of the plug boot and making an exact replacement seemed absurd given the replacement part I had. So I spliced and diced using the entire length of the replacement (in case this was ascew up) as well as most of the original wire. I even used correctly gauged metal automotive crimp connectors and conductive bulb grease to ward off moisture, and insulated the connection with plenty of tape. So far the compressor and its fan are humming quietly. What can I expect? Should I open her back up and redo anything while I can? Attachment: icing.jpg (Downloaded 170 times)
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| Posted: Mon Feb 4th, 2008 05:52 pm |
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10th Post |
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ladylaz Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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More pics... Attachment: plug-termation.jpg (Downloaded 169 times)
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| Posted: Mon Feb 4th, 2008 05:54 pm |
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11th Post |
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ladylaz Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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More... Attachment: splice.jpg (Downloaded 173 times)
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| Posted: Mon Feb 4th, 2008 05:55 pm |
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12th Post |
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ladylaz Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Last one... Attachment: completed.jpg (Downloaded 168 times)
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| Posted: Mon Feb 4th, 2008 06:09 pm |
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13th Post |
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Poobah Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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your ok....I use crimp caps and a craft working glue gun usually or a silicone to fill the caps...your fine to just cut the wires and put them back together...just keep an eye on it...good luck
____________________ This is the DAY that the LORD has made, REJOICE and be glad in it..... |
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| Posted: Tue Feb 5th, 2008 09:57 am |
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14th Post |
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ladylaz Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Thanks - we'll keep an eye on it and know for certain in a few weeks!
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| Posted: Tue Feb 5th, 2008 10:08 am |
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15th Post |
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Poobah Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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these boxes react to how much the doors are opened..i've found it usually takes 3-4 weeks on most before an issue starts to arise (if it's going to) hopefully yours is cured....
____________________ This is the DAY that the LORD has made, REJOICE and be glad in it..... |
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| Posted: Wed Feb 6th, 2008 10:27 am |
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16th Post |
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ladylaz Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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| Posted: Wed Feb 6th, 2008 11:28 am |
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17th Post |
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Poobah Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Sounds as if the compressor isn't running or running intermitently for their to be water on the liner walls....you need to pull the fridge out and remove the back cover and see if the compressor is running or if it is trying to start and not being able to (will make a clicking sound every minute or so...if it is doing this could be a bad overload/relay assembly)....also listen to the where the motherboard is located and see if you can hear a sucsession of clicking going on (this has been a pretty common occurance on these also ending witha bad board)...also while there make sure the fan is running and the compressor isn't overly hot (not able to lay your hand on it for an extended time) If the compressor is running ok and not overly hot, and the coils are only frosted on the top 1/3 it could be a sealed system leak...if it starts running ok and frosting the coil then post a pic so we can see the frost pattern after checking this unplug the box and let it set for 5-10 mins...after plugging it back in this will reset the fridge...leave it ot for awhile and see what happens with compressor run, coil frosting make sure the plug and socket that holds the thermistor wires (the one you tried first) is plugged in good and no wires are pulled loose Last edited on Wed Feb 6th, 2008 11:33 am by Poobah ____________________ This is the DAY that the LORD has made, REJOICE and be glad in it..... |
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| Posted: Wed Feb 6th, 2008 02:21 pm |
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18th Post |
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ladylaz Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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First, thank-you everyone for your fine feedback/instruction. After running with repair for 48 hours did the following: 1)Removed back panel, hand on running comressor for 30 seconds. Fan was on, compressor hot but tolerable. No dust...looks new...see pic...fan was on shutter speed makes it look off. No clicking in either compressor (quiet hum) or motherboard. Listened with mechanics stethoscope to confirm. There IS a distinct trickling sound seemingly coming from the compressor; it is faint and sounds like water dripping every couple seconds. 2)Went to get tools to pull freezer compartment cover. When I came back compressor and fan were off. 3)Unplugged unit, removed freezer cover. Inspected wiring boot: tight, no loosened wires. Adjusted clip on new thermistor so it was in the middle if the thermistor instead of the very end. 4)Inspected coils. Lots of frost on lower coils, just moisture on upper coils. Frosted copper low down, frozen pool under overflow hole. Took picture. Posted. 5)Note: freezer only has 20 full ice cube trays and a frozen Margarita bucket in it. Everything else has been moved to a chest freezer until repair is confirmed. 6)Replugged unit after 15 minutes, compressor and fan came on instantly, almost silently. Came upstairs to load this message and unit has been running 15 minutes, compressor/fan still on, not too hot to the touch. Attachment: 48hourFrost.jpg (Downloaded 151 times)
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| Posted: Wed Feb 6th, 2008 02:21 pm |
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19th Post |
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ladylaz Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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other pic referred to in last message Attachment: compressor.jpg (Downloaded 148 times)
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| Posted: Thu Feb 7th, 2008 12:39 am |
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20th Post |
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appl.tech.29501 Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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Kinda looks like the beginning of a sealed system problem to me......kinda wierd..definitely appeard to be a defrost issue previously...what says you Poobah?
____________________ If you would like to make a donation you may do so at the link below http://homepage.mac.com/zenzoidman/appl.tech.29501/ |
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