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Moderated by: RegUS_PatOff, Pegi, appl.tech.29501

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how to install my new adaptive defrost control board

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You have chosen to ignore Dlecocq. click Here to view this post

Posted: Thu Oct 6th, 2005 01:42 am

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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Dlecocq wrote:
What does it mean if the reading between L1 and Def Htr reads 0 (not 120V AC)?
Assuming your meter is set to read AC voltage, it means that there is the same electrical potential at L1 and Def Htr == usually means the board is in defrost mode, trying to energize the heating elements.

I replace the relay on the ADC and tried to trigger the defrost cycle by jumping L1 and Test. The relay does a buzzing sound, almost like a timer, but the defrost element does not get hot.
Not sure about that buzzing bidness-- got too much o' that going on my head! Speculation: it's the wrong relay for the application. Sounds like a well-known phenomenon called "relay bounce" where the improperly energized coil in the relay causes the relay arm to bounce on the contact, rather than stay put, resulting in a poor connection.

BTW what is a terministor?
A solid state device commonly used to measure temperature i refrigerators, ovens, dryers, and dishwashers. And extended application is to make a solid state start relay in compressors.

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Posted: Thu Oct 6th, 2005 05:33 am

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Dlecocq
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Hi

Thank you for your quick reply. My fridge is a Jennair, side x side, JCD2289ATW and is building frost over time. Following the provided instructions, I did the tests.

When thawed, the resistance was 20 ohms (I assumed the thermostat is closed as explained); when frozen the resistance was 240k ohms with variations as I recall it (meaning open). I did additional tests on this resistance thing as follows:

Test 1A

Fridge compartment, fridge plugged in the electrical outlet, freezer control to off position but with lots of frost on the coil.

Meter on 2000 k ohm,

Common (black) on blue wire (at the connector level) and red on yellow terminal of ADC

I read Minus 240k ohm with variations

Test 1B

Common (black) on yellow terminal of ADC and red on blue wire (at the connector)

I read 550 or so.

Test 1C

Common (black) on yellow wire and red on blue wire near the Coil in the freezer

Common (black) on blue wire and red on yellow wire near the Coil in the freezer

Same results as Test 1A/1B

Test 1D

Unplugged the defrost assembly and tested the assembly only

I read 243k ohm.

The reading I did between L1 and Def Htr was on the AC scale of the meter set at 750V. I tested again, as follows.

Test 2A

Fridge plugged in the electrical outlet, freezer control to off position.

I read 120v.

Test 2B

Freezer control and refrigerator control to mid position.

L1 and test briefly jumped to trigger defrost (as in Jackpai’s explanation)

I read 0v.

Test 2C

Freezer control and refrigerator control to mid position.

Not in defrost cycle.

I read 0v.

Your explanation seems to apply to my tests but I’m puzzled by Jackpai’s explanation because different results are obtained. Being a novice at electronics, I may not have completely understood Jackpai’s test!

Can the fridge be plugged-in, in defrost cycle and have the freezer control in the off position, all at the same time and read 120v?

I checked the new relay and found out it is the twin brother of the original (JW1FSN-DC24V).

I’m at a loss here! Do you have more tests to recommend? What do you think is the culprit? Is it the terministor? And where is this thing located?

Is the evaporator fan always on?

Many thanks in advance! :huh:

Posted: Thu Oct 6th, 2005 08:18 am

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RegUS_PatOff
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I have a Maytag MSD2756AEW and had the same defrost problem.

I drew a schematic of the ADC and found the cause and fix for the "buzzing relay"

It's a bad electrolytic capacitor, C2, 22uF @50v

Try jumpering in a good one across it. (there is a protective coating over the entire board)

Watch the polarity and also be careful, the minus (-) side of the cap is connected to L1 120v HOT side of the power line.

I drew the schematic with MS Paint, and will soon draw it with a schematic program and upload it here. (a few messages below)

also, neither the compressor nor the defrost heater will work when the temp control is turned down (but the relay will still energize) try it at max cooling setting.

Last edited on Sat May 24th, 2008 09:20 am by RegUS_PatOff

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Posted: Thu Oct 6th, 2005 02:46 pm

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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Way to go, Reg! Excellent information-- that earned you a promotion. :cheers:

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Posted: Thu Oct 6th, 2005 10:14 pm

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Pegi
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Maytag, probably a bad ADC, these have known problems, located up in the food section in the housing your controls are located...

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Posted: Thu Oct 6th, 2005 10:19 pm

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Pegi
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Ref. # 13 in this breakdown, part number will be 61005988.

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Posted: Thu Oct 6th, 2005 10:21 pm

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Pegi
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Click here to order this part......

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Posted: Fri Oct 7th, 2005 01:33 pm

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RegUS_PatOff
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here ya go !

1996 Maytag ADC Defrost Controller Schematic ( MS Paint > pdf )

rev. 10/08/05

Attachment: MAYTAG ADC.pdf (Downloaded 415 times)

Last edited on Sun Oct 9th, 2005 04:08 pm by RegUS_PatOff

Posted: Fri Oct 7th, 2005 02:03 pm

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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Very cool, Reg! Did you reverse engineer this yourself to create the schematic?

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Posted: Fri Oct 7th, 2005 05:00 pm

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RegUS_PatOff
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man wrote: Very cool, Reg! Did you reverse engineer this yourself to create the schematic?yes !

Posted: Thu Oct 13th, 2005 09:36 pm

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gadgetsmith
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wow ! this site is great...

Here's my story...

I had this exact problem (Maytag SxS 2556) about 2 months ago... called in a Maytag repairman to the tune of about $200. He "knew" my problem before even arriving... asked me to start defrosting my freezer section before he showed up. Saw that the evaporator coils were almost a block of ice and blocking the inlet from the fridge section (hence no flow, warm fridge, cold freezer). He replaced the defrost thermostat for $20 and the whole thing worked fine... for about a month... same problem... this time I knew what to do.... thawed out the evaporator coils, and upon inspection I saw that the thermostat was not connected to the evaporator line like it was supposed to be. (being the "genius" that I am I though mearly clipping this back on would solve my problems)... well, a month more later and presto, same problem..

ok... I really don't like spending $200 to have something "fixed" and not have the problem solved... this time I was taking on the task (with no knowledge of refridgerators at all)... found some scehmatics on the Maytag website and eliminated the theromostat as the failure point... one google of "Maytag Adaptive Defrost Control", and presto, i'm here! Great stuff !

Thanks to all here, and a special thank you to Reg, nothing like going from a $200 service call to replacing a $50 part, to fixing the $50 part with a $1.19 capacitor !

Due to lack of decent electronics shops in the area, i've used a 22uF 35V cap from Radio Shack at the C2 position. Can anyone tell me if this can lead to long term problems. I'm thinking of getting the proper cap (22uF 50V) and putting that in (sorry Reg, tatalums are about $15/each !! ouch !!), but will this 35V one from RS work in the meanwhile, or maybe it will be fine as it is ??

Thanks again everyone that posted, and what a great site Samurai ! (ps. nice place otterville is.)

cheers, gs

Posted: Thu Oct 13th, 2005 11:22 pm

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RegUS_PatOff
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The 35v cap should be OK, it only charges to about 35v with 4ma, and while the relay is on, it's only at 24v.

If the cap can't handle it, it won't ruin the cap, in this case.

The non-tantalums may last another few years.

If you can find a tantalum 22uF @ 35v, that may last forever.

I'll check some sources.

Posted: Wed Oct 26th, 2005 08:56 pm

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jmizzi
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Boy I'm glad I found this thread. I too have a Maytag MZD2766. I was initially blaming the kids for leaving the door ajar because it was intermittent at first. Then I noticed after a week or so I would have to manually defrost the coils because the ice/frost was preventing airfow into the refrig compartment.

I did the little test of shorting L1 and Test on the ADC and sure thing I got a buzzing sound. After a trip to the parts store and $60 later I installed the new ADC and preformed the L1 - Test short. The compressor turned off and the the heating coil came on. Bingo. Bad ADC. I saved $100 bucks, learned about the defrost cycle, and apologized to the kids.

Thanks a million

Oh if anyone wants a bad ADC let me know and I'll send it to you.

John

Posted: Sat Oct 29th, 2005 11:17 pm

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RegUS_PatOff
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jmizzi wrote: Boy I'm glad I found this thread. I too have a Maytag MZD2766. I was initially blaming the kids for leaving the door ajar because it was intermittent at first. Then I noticed after a week or so I would have to manually defrost the coils because the ice/frost was preventing airfow into the refrig compartment.

I did the little test of shorting L1 and Test on the ADC and sure thing I got a buzzing sound. After a trip to the parts store and $60 later I installed the new ADC and preformed the L1 - Test short. The compressor turned off and the the heating coil came on. Bingo. Bad ADC. I saved $100 bucks, learned about the defrost cycle, and apologized to the kids.

Thanks a million

Oh if anyone wants a bad ADC let me know and I'll send it to you.

JohnI could use it if nobody else responds...

Posted: Thu Nov 3rd, 2005 11:14 am

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James athey
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hoe do i get to the adaptive control board on a model msd2756aew? may tag refrigerator

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